Saturday, May 19, 2012

First Martyr for Human RIghts? Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji

First Martyr for Human RIghts? Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji

Kashmiri Hindu pundits meeting Guru Tegh Bahadurji to ask for help against forced conversions by the Islamic Mughal emperor
Kashmiris meeting Guru Tegh Bahadurji to ask for help against forced conversions by the Islamic Mughal emperor
(CHAKRA) Martyrdom of Guru Tegh Bahadur is a religious observance for the Sikhism followers. Sikhism followers remember the martyrdom of Guru Tegh Bahadur on November 24. He was beheaded as he refused to be forced to accept Islam as his religion and now stands as an example of freedom of choosing each one’s religion. Guru Tegh Bahdur Martyrdom Day is one of the ten most important festivals observed by all Sikhs. Like in the other festivals it is custom for all Sikhs in a community to organize a procession, a Prabhat Pherys, where the Panj Pyares lead the procession and are followed by musicians, dancers and gatka teams performing martial arts.
Guru Tegh Bahadur became the 9th Guru of Sikhi on 20 March 1665 ,  following in the footsteps of his grand-nephew, Guru Har Krishan. Guru Tegh Bahadur was executed on the orders of Islamic Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in Delhi
In 1675, some Kashmiris  sought Guru Tegh Bahadur’s help. The Mughal emperor was forcibly converting them to Islam under the threat of torturous death. Even though the Guru followed a different faith than many other Kashmiris, he believed in everyone’s right to practice one’s own religion freely, a core principle of his Sikh faith. The same principle is now espoused in the First Amendment (1791) to the U. S. Constitution, allowing free exercise of religion.


The Guru advised theKashmiris to tell the emperor that they would embrace Islam if the Guru did so. He also encouraged people of all faiths to stand up to oppression and practice their faiths freely without fear. One of the Guru’s hymns says: Neither frighten anyone, nor be frightened (translated from Siri Guru Granth Sahib).
As anticipated, the Guru was arrested. When lavish incentives and extreme threats failed to sway the Guru and his companion Sikhs, the Sikhs were burnt alive, boiled alive and sawed alive in front of the Guru by Muslims. On still refusing to waver from his principle, the Guru himself was martyred. 
POSTED BY : VIPUL KOUL   ,         EDITED BY :  ASHOK KOUL

Swami Kral Babji (A Profile)


Swami Kral Babji (A Profile)


Swami Kral Bab Maharaj

KASHMIR has given birth to many Sages,seers, Rish's and Sufi's ,in both the forms of male and females.It has seen lean periods of economics, social and spiritual gloom , but nature has always been kind enough from time to time to project a supreme personality of GODHEAD over the scene to save the humanity from sinking into abyss of degradation and misery.
His holiness Swami Kral Babji Maharaj was born in 1928 on Phagun Purnima from a modest humble agriculture family at KralGund village in tehsil Handwara J&K The name KRALBAB was given to him by his Guru Maharaj Nand lal ji(Kaul).His parental name was Sh Bhagwan Dass ji. The name of his parents was Sh Samsar Chand and Kudmali.From his childhood days his inclination towards God was visible. When the other young boys of his age would play with usual games in the village , he played with ashes,cow dung and smear such dust over his body.From his childhood it was evident that he was not interested in the worldly affairs. As a child he was always after his Kul Purohit to tell him the religious stories and prefered lonely and quite places to go for reciting religious hymes,which he had orally heard.After the death of his father,he could not escape the woes of Worldly life. His brothers gave him away to the domestic service of a Sub judge at sopore. The judge had two wives. One day Sub judge invited a saint for meals.The left over meals of the saint was not consumed by the wives of the judge as prasad and was passed on to Sh Kral Babji's for eating. This proved to be elevating touch to Sh Kral Babji's Spiritual path and an eye opener to the Sub judge and his wives. One day finding him in meditation, after finishing the house hold jobs, the Sub judge's family found a glow projecting from the forehead of BabjiMaharaj.Next day Sh Kral Babji was given much obeisance and reverence and made to give up the domestic job.Time had turned ripe for Sh Kral Babji to meet his Guru Chatanaiya Bramchari Yogi Raj Swami Nan lal ji Maharaj. It was a Guru -Shisia relationship from first sight and he was impatient to embrass,Sh Kral Babji as his disciple . But the bold words from the Submissive minded Kral Babji was "not " till his mother was alive.


 
 
Siddhi Suroopa
Sh Kral Babji was averse to get publicity through print or photographs,as he never wanted to be a trade mark to get commercially exploited. He was nor haughty not under materially contaminated conscious. He was for total Kashmiriyat. He was submissive before transcendtal friendship. Once a muslim lady came in tears and boldly said that she had no child even after five years of her marrage.Bab Maharaj was moved by her plight and said " Valie Kehna chona gam" (come on don't worry). Let you have this almond and God will fill your lap. The lady had a promise of a Sat Guru , which she knew would not fail. After nine months the lady was blessed with a son.
Before the air crash and death of General Zia of Pakistan was announced on radio or television or the world knew about it, it was Sh Kral Babji,who after opening his eyes from Samadhi declared "Peeva-Peeva" (fallen fallen). In panic we enquired as to what had fallen . He declared that Mahashesura had fallen. Later in the evening we could understand the truth of this words. It was Bab Maharaj's Siddhi'Syurapa, perfection of his constitutional position.
Ghari Ashram a Transit Camp during Migration
As regards our Exdous and turmoil from the valley, Bab Maharaj had made prophecy about the coming events long before. To lesson our suffering on account of migration,he had constructed an Ashram at Ghari udhampur much before 1989, the year of our Exdous. We often used to ask him,as what was the need of Ghari Asharam, when there were already number of Ashrams constructed in the valley by him at places like, Venkura (Baramulla),NamtHal (Budgam) He would reply "Ghari Ashram has to play a great role in the future .His Prophecy proved true and timely solution to the awakard crisis,created by no-secular religious Zealots. People througed the Ashram,stayed there for a few days and went away.During the days of migration it was really like a army transit camp.
His Holiness Kral Babji was exceptionally liberal and conciously honest even after his Nirvana. At Ghari Ashram Udhampur , there is a blessed window and in case any devotee wishes any help to negate his suffering ,he goes out and prayers before that window. His prayers are granted and wish fulfilled. This confidence helps to explain, how pure devotion can develop devine qualities, at the highest end of spiritual existence. Bab Maharaj was more open to show the Kashmiri spiritualism had more capacities and predisposition's of popular mind and miracles of the order and style of infinity, attested ,long back by nature at AmarNath Cave, Khir Bhawani , Sharda Shrine (POK) and other places.Kashmir was also called the Siddha Peth, a place of Success in Spiritual efforts . Here it was the graceful touch of many innocent and no informal education, who found power and providence of God, being master in Para-Vidiya,could talk about the relative values of reality.

Guru Shisa Parampra
Guru Shisa relationship between Swami Nad lalji Maharaj and Swami Kral Babji Maharaj was from the first sight.Swami Nand lal ji was born in Feburary 1903 at Srinagar in respected Kaul Family of Kashmiri Pandits. As a small boy he used to spend quite some time in the company of wandering monks. He was always liberal to meet saints coming from outside countries and even from Nepal. In his wandering he would spend nights in the Jungles of Kashmir. Even wild animals would forget their ferocious nature and instructure hostality. He wandered from place to place and ultimately sat at the holy feet of his Guru Maharaj Swami Lalji Maharaj. Swami Lalji was a strict disciplinarian and tough task master.Here Swami Nand Lalji learnt Yoga, Sanskrit , Scriptures and great scerets-stages of Yoga and Prana abayasa. Swami Nandlal ji found his spritual destination at Hardawar, Shardaji(POK),Gilgit, Ladak,Skardu, tibet at ultimately Mansarovar lake. He founded Ashrams at Tikker and Hushru. Some of his main desciples were Sh Kral Babji, Sh MastBabji, Sh Biatothji,Sh Vebeshanji and others.People of all the religions had a great faith in him. He went into Maha Samadi and left his mortal remains on Ist of February 1968 (Magh Shukla triya).
Sh Kral Babji as a Shrewd and sincere disciple followed the foot steps of his Guru and carried on eternal flame till his Nirvana in the year 1990 on Asoj Krishna Paksha Chuturdasi leaving behind legacy of large number of devotees and disciples. The main among them is Swami Kumarji . He is following the footsteps of his Guru Maharaj. The name Kumarji was given to him by Sh Kral Babji Maharaj . His parential name was Shiben Krishen and hails from Rawoosa Baramulla. He has inherited a profound reverence for the traditional hindi religion ie "SANANTAN DHARMA". Besides many social functions, many Havans are performed anually by him at Ghari Udhampur Ashram. Large number of devotees Visit the Ashram to seek the blessings of the SAT-GURU'S.

    POSTED BY : VIPUL KOUL            ,EDITED BY : ASHOK KOUL

Riche Ded


Riche Ded

by T. N. Kaul

Koshur Samachar


Riche Ded
Riche Ded
Riche Ded, an eminent poetess, seer and philosopher of Kashmir, who lived through the twentieth century was shrouded in mystery. It was only twelve years after her death that her literary compositions first saw the light of the day. For a while it seemed that the illustrious Lal Ded of the fourteenth century had taken yet another birth. Born in Srinagar in 1880, Riche Ded (literal meaning Noble Lady) was undoubtedly a loving, unsophisticated woman with tremendous yogic powers. She blessed all, irrespective of caste or creed, and wished everyone well. She never uttered a harsh word, lived a saintly life and quietly passed away in 1966. Her real name was Saenpat Devi.
Riche Ded composed 450 delectable 'vaakhs', using the common man's language which is still in vogue in the valley. These 'vaakhs', compiled by a poet and family friend, Prithvi Nath Kaul 'Sayil', were published by her son, Hari Krishan 'Fani', in book form at the end of 1980, her birth centenary year. Actually, the number of 'vaakhs' was much higher (1,000 according to her son) but many of them were unfortunately lost to posterity due to reasons beyond human ingenuity.
The husband of Riche Ded, Janardhan Kaul 'Sagar', was also a poet in his own right. He was well versed in Urdu, Persian, Arabic and English, besides Hindi and Sanskrit, and translated several books into different languages while in the service of Nizam of Hyderabad. He died in 1918 when Riche Ded was only 38. Now she was alone and woebegone but spiritual beacons guided her. She hid the agony of her soul in the deep recesses of her heart. The whole burden of the household had suddenly fallen on her weak shoulders. Unmindful of her grief she plied the spinning wheel round the clock to keep the wolf away. Her son was still in his teens.
As time passed by, she got Hari Krishan married. The latter found a job too but was posted mostly in far-flung areas. By then Riche Ded had shown signs of aging and her daughter-in-law, Danawati, was obliged to stay back in Srinagar to look after her. Plying the spinning wheel continued to be part of the daily routine of Riche Ded.. She poured forth her pent-up anguish in the shape of 'vaakhs' while the wheel of her life revolved, emanating a low weeping sound. Danawati watched this phenomenon with amazement. Whenever she was free from household chores, she recorded in Devnagari what Riche Ded murmured. This process continued for thirty years. She would slyly deposit the papers in a wooden almirah, layer upon layer, without caring to let anyone know what transpired within the four walls.
Riche Ded passed away, unsung and unwept, at the ripe age of 86 and Danawati forgot all about the invaluable treasure lying at the mercy of the moths. Twelve years later, while on her death bed, she mustered courage enough to divulge the 'secret' to her husband and the 400-odd 'vaakhs' were rescued from the clutches of whiteants.
Following are some of the representative 'vaakhs' of the poetess in English translation, together with the original:

VAAKHS

      1.
      Kala chhay lalit, kala chhe shilp,
      Kala chha sangeet - sur, taal, raag,
      Kala chha vastun, Kala chhe vanavun,
      Kala chha kavita - pad, chhand, suha,
      Kala chhe harsh, kala chhe anand,
      Kala chhe mohini, yatch, lol, anuraag.Art is beauty personified, beauty carved in stone,
      Art betokens music - sur taal and raga,
      Art is like a pithy ditty sung in chorus,
      Art is poetry - a couplet, a stanza, a melody,
      Art is a state of ecstasy and eternal peace,
      Art is charm, allurement, love and longing.
      2.
      Vaanss chhe ne manushas chhoniravaan,
      sobaav chhu ne manushas handeravaan,
      Marg chhu amaa yi varga valaan,
      Roog chhu andri-andri sanderavaan.
      Agree does not detract from a man's life-span,
      Nor does temperament make him stale,
      Only the death of near ones dashes him down,
      The hidden malady hollowing his interior.
      3.
      Veshwas chhu nishchay, veshwass chha shraddha,
      Veshwas chhu saahas, partet te aashaa,
      Veshwas chhu saadhan, anaan sedhi, saphalta,
      Veshwas chhu swyambhu, aatme gyaanich pratim.
      Confidence is firm resolve, trust and faith,
      Confidence is courage, belief and hope,
      Confidence is a vehicle for achieving success,
      Confidence is self-existence, an ideal for realization.
      4.
      Kamcha prath chhu maazas laha kharaan,
      Mokha prath chhu karaan adijen soor,
      Kudur vanun chhu be-sur, grinah gaaraan,
      Shani-shani gaalaan ye pholevun noor.
      The stroke of the whip raises wales on the flesh,
      But the blow of the tongue pounds the very bones,
      Harsh words are discordant and breed hatred,
      Slowly eclipsing the brilliant light of love.
      5.
      Yus diyi pazich hakh, suy chhu mujaahid,
      Poz chhu khodaaai, kyazi khodaai chhu waahid.
      Neke chhene raavan, neki chha poz imaan,
      Yohoy myon deen mazhab, ath chhum khoda shaahid.
      He who raises the voice of truth is a crusader,
      Truth is God because God is one.
      A kind deed never goes waste, kindness is true faith,
      It is my religion and God bears testimony to this.
      6.
      Dayaloo man chhu akh sundar baagh,
      Barus sag gandus tse pai,
      Rut vetsaar chhu akh sundar byol,
      Chhakh ye butaraech to karus lai:
      Modhur shabd chhu akh sundar posh,
      Karaan paraazyat shathras, anaan kathi vizai:
      Wopkaar-krti chhe akh sundar phal,
      Sethaa myuth, sethaa pooth, bina samshai.
      Kind heart is like a delightful garden,
      Water it fully and keep it duly fenced:
      Good thought is like a beautiful seed,
      Sow it and, surely, raise a bumper crop.
      Sweet word is like a charming flower,
      It disarms enemies and ensures success:
      Benevolence is like a delectable fruit,
      Large-sized and very delicious, indeed.
      7.
      Zindagi chha akh samai, akh avsar te akh kaal,
      Zindagi chhu heachun te heachit vartaavun, ama kathin sawaal,
      Zindagi chhe tsu-vot, du-tsyot te suma-soth,
      Yohuy parzanaavun, parkhaavun, ratun, traavun mahaal.
      Life is time - anage full of opportunities,
      To imbibe good and to do good is difficult task,
      Life is a crossroads, a deceptive path, an embankment,
      To identify, test, accept or reject these is hard.
      8.
      Aatmaa anubhav chhu divaan diva gyaan,
      Avay aatma gyaanik chhi saari anugraagi:
      Aatma gyaan chhu mukhti hund nishaan,
      Su aastan yogi, bhogi, raagi yaa tyaagi.
      Self-realization results in recognition of God,
      That is why the wise strive to know themselves:
      Self-knowledge is the symbol of salvation for all,
      Be it a Yogi, sensualist, lover or anchorite.
      9.
      Gaatlev chhu vonamut har kanh chhu anzaan,
      Saari na nipun, saariney na pahchaan,
      Itihaas chhu zyooth, prasang chhi anek,
      Prath kaansi sankooch, be-had chhu kreshaan.
      The wise have said that everybody is ignorant,
      All are not experts, all are not seers,
      The agenda is quite long, topics are numerous,
      All suffer from constraints but they long to learn.
      10.
      Dayi naav swarun, su manas darun,
      Suy zevi parun, gayi saez sumran,
      Gwar dhaarun, tas nishi anubhav yaarun,
      Suy Ishwar mangal - amar, ajar, sanatan.
      Remembering God, enshrining Him in the heart,
      And reciting His name is the unaffected rosary:
      A guru is necessary for gaining spiritual bliss,
      Which is immortal, imperishable and timeless.
      11.
      Gaash aasi te asi prakash meli
      Dimou tsyat asi te vopdi yehsaas,
      Qasma-qasam kath chham hanga te manga,
      Karau pachh kaensi diya su veshwas.
      Only if we are lettered can we attain knowledge,
      Only by delving deep can we realise our duty:
      Why should we take recourse to oaths for nothing?
      If we put faith in someone, he will not fail us.
      12.
      Mewa chhu aasan setha chok papna bronth,
      Mantar chhu baasaan neshphal zapna bronth;
      Shur chhu karaan gaangal kehn dapna bronth,
      Bekal chhu rozaan nam-tal gaatul sapna bronth
      Fruit is quite bitter before it ripens,
      Mantra seems ineffective before it is recited;
      A child poses problems before it learns to speak,
      A fool remains subjugated until he grows wise.
                              BY: KASHMIR OVERSEAS ASSOCIATION 
                               POSTED BY : VIPUL KOUL   , EDITED BY :ASHOK KOUL


When Swami Vivekananda performed puja at Khir Bhawani


When Swami Vivekananda performed puja at Khir Bhawani

By Mohan Kishen Tiku
The Khir Bhawani shrine is situated to the north of the Srinagar city at a distance of 24 km. The shrine is dedicated to Goddess Ragni Devi popularly known as Khir Bhawani. There is a spring where the water occasionally changes colour and this curious phenomenon attracts a number of yatries every year.
Swami Vivekanand's visit to Kashmir
Picture Courtesy: Mr. C. M. Bhat 
As regards the age and sanctity this famous shrine of Kashmir, the award of the “Tirth Sangrahi” and the tradition is unanimously the same. This shrine of Kashmir is as old as the human being in Kashmir. It is said that it was during the period of Ramayana, that Goddess was moved from Lanka (Ceylon) to Satisar (Kashmir). In Ceylon, Rawan began to perform evils. He performed the act of Sita haran, where upon Shri Ram invaded Lanka. Rawan began to perform penance for one thousand years. Goddess was pleased to see this, and gave darshan to Rawan. She as per request of Rawan selected North-Western corner of Lanka as Her abode, and sitting at the back of Anant-Serpant. The Goddess appeared in human form and gave darshan to King Rawan in nine different forms from time to time.
Rawan being now the devotee was given Kingdom of Lanka. At the time of invasion of Lanka by Shri Ram, Hanuman was ordered to take away the Goddess on the back of Anant-Serpant to Satisar--(Kashmir). The night when Maharagni came in Kashmir is named as Ragni-Ratri, and Goddess is worshipped as Maharagni.
For more than three centuries people knew nothing of this sacred spring which was subsequently discovered by Pandit Govind Joo Gadroo of Bohri-Kadal of Srinagar. Goddess appeared to him in a dream and he was ordered to visit the place. He arranged a boat and went to the Tulla-Mulla village--the abode of Goddess with a number of earthern vessels filled with milk, and when he reached the spring he poured milk into it. There is another version of process which is said to have brought the shrine to the notice:
One Kashmiri Pandit saw a vision in which he was asked by an Angel that the spring of Khir Bhawani lay among the swamps of Tulla Mulla village. The Pandit was surprised on this account. It was a difficult task for him to reach the main spot of the holy spring. A voice came to him and asked Pandit to engage a boat near Shadipore and from this place a serpant will guide him. As soon as the spot will be reached the serpant will jump in a spring which is the abode of Goddess. He did as was told and reached the main spot. Thus was the divine-spring of Kashmir discovered. Krishna Pandit along with other persons from the city inaugurated worship of the Goddess-first of its kind. After the pooja was finished, it is said that a piece of birch was seen floating over the water of the spring. The piece was collected and to his great surprise he found a ‘Sholaka’ written on it. Now gradually the place became known all over the Kashmir and outside too.
The main spring is dedicated to Goddess Khir Bhawani. It is an irregular spetagonal shape with apex called Pad (feet to the east). The Southern and Northern sides are a bit longer than the western side, commonly called ‘Sher’ (head). In the Centre there is an islet on which a temple must have existed. Sikandar Bud Shikan destroyed this temple also. Maharaja Partap Singh, got erected the present marble temple under the supervision of Pandit Ved Lal Dhar (father of Bal Kak Dhar)--Rais of Kashmir in the samvat year 1969.
On Durga Ashtmi, the 8th of the bright fortnight of Chet and on Jeth Ashtami large fairs are held at this shrine, which is attended by the devotees. People going there for worship do not take fish, meat or eggs, and must take a bath before they enter the main place.
Muslims of this place offer flowers through their Pandit friends, while addressing the Goddess as ‘Maj-Bhagvati’. (Mother Goddess). This shrine is reached by road and by boat too. The shrine is under the control of Jammu and Kashmir Dharmarth Trust.
Ragyna-Pradurbhave in its last chapter mentions at about this shrine.
This year the fair took place on 30th May. The State government made all possible arrangements for the convenience of the pilgrims. From Jammu a number of Kashmiri. Pandit migrants and locals left for Srinagar to join pooja at the shrine. Pilgrims from other parts of the Republic also reached the Srinagar for the function.
Swami Vivekanada along with some gurubhais and disciples and a party of Europeans reached Kashmir in June 1898 AD. On June 26, the party visited Khir Bhawani spring. Swami along with the party did bhajan at this shrine, and after some time did perform pooja. Then he sat down, in japa. No more Hari, it is all Mother now,” said so Swami. He brought to the notice of the Maharaja Partap Singh the neglected condition of this spring temple.


                                                      SH.CNANDER M BHAT 



 
                                                   POSTED BY : VIPUL KOUL ,EDITED BY :ASHOK KOUL

Friday, May 18, 2012

Very Old Photographs Slideshow Slideshow

Very Old Photographs Slideshow Slideshow: TripAdvisor™ TripWow ★ Very Old Photographs Slideshow Slideshow ★ to Jammu. Stunning free travel slideshows on TripAdvisor

Very Old Photographs Slideshow Slideshow

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Mata Kheer Bhawani ,Kashmir (India) Slideshow Slideshow

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Thursday, May 17, 2012

Some Marvels of Kashmir


 

Some Marvels of Kashmir

by Prof. C. L. Sadhu

The happy valley of Kashmir is well known throughout the world for its Natural beauty. Here nature has been prodigal enough in crowning this ancient land with all its splendour and glory. Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Mughal gardens attract visitors from all over the world. Its lakes, green meadows, dancing and foaming streams, majestic forests full of fir and pine, snow-capped peaks are common attractions to the outsider as well as to the native. Besides this, the valley being sacred and called Rishi wari till now, abounds in sacred places, Tirthas and Asthans. Long ago at the dawn of civilisation when the sons of Rishi Kashyapa from plains came to settle here they brought with them their traditions, religion, mythology etc. etc. These early settlers named the confluence of river Sindh and river Jhelum as Prayag, equal to holy Prayag at the confluence of the Ganga and the Jamna in India. They named the tallest mountain peaks here after their Gods and deities such as Brahma, Vishnoo and Mahadev. These settlers must have felt surprised to see the hide and seek of water in the Spring of Trisandya; melting of snow around the spring of Bedaba Devi and other marvellous places With the passage of time, these places became Tirthas or places of worship and has continued so upto the present time. The tradition being like this R. L. Stein who has translated Rajatarangini into English writes, "Kashmir is a country where there is not a place as large as a grain of seasam without a Tirtha. Time and conversion to Islam of greater portion of population has changed but little in this respect. " Pandit Kalhana while writing introduction to Rajatarangini names the miraculous springs of Trisandya Saraswati lake on the Bheda hillock, Self created fire at Soyambhu etc. etc. "
In this small article I have made a humble effort to sift and choose certain marvels and wonders shrouded by myth and mystery, hidden and lying in oblivion from the eyes of the outsider. I have made an effort as to what is myth, heresay and what is real. These wondors, now as Tirthas ( places of pilgrimage ) have been verified by me personally. These wonders consist in the shape of springs, temples, caves, boulders, and other things which lie scattered throughout the length and breadth of the valley.
I have not included such things which lack corroboration and verification. For example in the vale of Sonamarg people refer to a cow carved out of a rock and from whose uddersmilk-white water issues forth. The locals also claim a couple, of waters lying transformed into stone far up in the Jungle. I have also excluded such objects where people seem to have exaggerated things such as Nakwarlbal in the village of Seer Kanligund on way to Pahalgam. They claim that a stone-head lying on an allevation gives out water by right Nostril during the bright fortnight and by left Nostril during the dark lunar fort- night. Nakwar in Kashmir means Nostrils and therefore the name Nakwaribal. On verification I found it simply false, though the stone head, with Nostrils exists near the villages.

The Holy Spring At Tullamulla ( Kheir Bhawani )

( Its water changes colour ) One maryel of Kashmir is the mysterious holy spring of Kheir Bhawani which is widely known to change its colour from time to time. It is towards the north of Srinagar at a distance of about 14 km. and can be reached within an hour by bus.
Before we enter the main islet to have Darshana of the holy spring of Bhawani we come across two important sites - one is Ziarat of Mir Baba Haider (a Muslim saint) and the other is the Samadhi of Shri Labhu Shah, a saint who lived some 150 years ago in Kashmir.
The main spring dedicated to Goddess Kheir Bhawani hasan irregular septagonal shape with its apex called Pad ( feet ) to the East. The northern and the southern sides are longer than the western side which is called Shir (Head). In the centre of the holy spring where once stood a mulberry tree, there is one marble temple which enshrines some idols found at the time of cleansing the spring. In January 1970 an electric pump was installed to conduct the cleansing operation of the spring. Besides removal of mud and mire which had accumulated since long at the bottom of the spring a number of gold ornaments and silver pieces offered to the Goddess were recovered. As a result of the silt clearance a huge volume of milky white water bubbled out. During recent times regular clearance is being made after each festival when huge quantities of floweres, lotuses, mentha sylvestries (Vena) offered by devotees collect at the surface of the holy spring.
The water of the Spring changes its colour from time to time. It takes on various hues like red, pink, orange, green, blue and has often light green, red rosy and millky white shades. Abul Fazal in 16th century and Swami Vivekananda in the year 1894 have testified this fact. Any shade of black colour is supposed to be inauspicious for the inhabitants of the valley. This colour was prominent in the year 1947 when the Pakistani raiders attacked the peaceful valley. Many times rising of bubbles has been observed which form the mystic Chakra on the surface of the water. In my infancy I had a strange experience here. An outstretched hand from the holy spring offered me a beautiful pen in a dream. In the morning when I woke up I found the same pen under my pillow which I retained for many years with me as a sacred relic of the Divine Mother. Such a sacred and mysterious spring is found nowhere else in India. The people living round the holy spring have great veneration for the holy shrine. A Hindu or a Muslim will not enter the premises of the holy spring if he happens to have taken meat on the day. In 1947 when the Pakistani marauders attacked the valley the local Muslims led them astray to save the shrine from their unholy hands.
Various legends and stories are current among the people regarding the holy spring. One such legend is that when Ravana was killed at the hands of Bagwan Rama the Goddess Bhawani ordered Hanuman to carry her to Satisar-Kashmir along with 360 Nagas. Hanuman selected the site and installed the Goddess in the Northern part of the valley. She came to be known as Kheir Bhawani or Ragyna Bhagwati as her favourite offerings consist of rice cooked in milk and sugar, and all other vegetarian forms of diet.
How did the existence of the holy spring come to light among the people ? It is related that one pious Brahmin named Krishna Pandit of Habba Kadal in Srinagar had a vision wherein he was informed by a Deva to offer Puja to Kheir Bhawani in the swamps of Tullamulla. How shall I locate the Goddess and her holy abode was the query on behalf of the saintly Brahmin. Thereuponhe was asked to hire a boat at Shadipora wherefrom a snake would guide him to the destination. Krishna Pandit did the same and was extremely happy when the snake guided him through the swampy and marshy land, until he reached the hollow trunk of a mulberry tree. The snake made a dip and disappeared from sight. The saint took the clue and after performing Puju poured milk which he had brought for this purpose. It is thus that the holy spring was discovered and was known to Kashmiries. It is believed that the discovery of the holy spring has been made on Ashadha Saptami, the 7th day of the bright fortnight of the month of June-July. Kashmiri Hindus come here on every Ashtami - 8th day of the bright fortnight of each lunar month and majority of Kashmiri Hindus consider Kheir Bhawani as their guardian Goddess.
Such is the brief history of the holy spring, the abode of Goddess Kheir Bhawani which has been eulogized by a poet in the following words :
"I make obeisance to that one Goddess, who having taken the position of the supreme God is the Queen in reality, whose form is made of light and is adorned by the lustre of 12 suns who cannot be observed through senses, who is seated on a throne and is wrapped with serpents ."

The Cave At Beerwa

To the south of Gulmarg there is a village known as Beerwa which is the tehsil headquarters of the surrounding area. The village is flanked by a mountain range on its southern side. At the eastern super of this mountain is located the celebrated cave connected with life of Acharya Abinav Gupta, the greatest Shiva philoiopher of Kashmir. The Acharya was called Bairwa meaning the fairless one. The village comes to be known after this title of Bairwa and has now become Beerwa. The celebrated cave is located at the height of nearly 300 meter on the super of the ridge overlooking the crescent shaped narrow valley of evergreen Jungles with a Sukh Nag Nalla flowing through it.
One Haji Mohd. Sultan Dar ( 75 years ) who guided me up to the cave said " Hindus used to assemble here upto year 1947 on the 12th day of the bright fortnight of the month corresponding to the month of June. In 1947 the valley was attacked by Pakistani raiders and so the tirtha was given up for security reasons. Since then a Government employee or some research scholar is seen occasionally visiting the cave."
The entrance of the cave is like a rectangular room where some 8 or 10 persons can accommodate themselves. Going further, the cave begins to narrow and opens to another smaller room where a stone Shiva lingum is visible. One can go further sideways but nobody proceeds further because of darkness and narrowness of the passage. On right and left vermilion covered rocks-adds can be seen.
Nearly one thousand years ago Acharya Abhinav Gupta who flourished at the beginning of the 11th century A. D. and is the exponent of Kashmir Shivaism known as Trika, entered this cave. The locals and the Hindus in the valley hold the legend that the Acharya entered the cave with 1200 disciples following him. None of them returned. Even at present while offering prayers, the Kashmiri Hindus recite the same prayers which the Acharya and his followers recited while entering the cave. It is believed that they entered Shivaloka in their earthly bodies through the cave. It is since then that the cave is held in great veneration by the Hindus of the valley and till recently it was the place of annual pilrimage.

Shankerun Pal or Boulder of Lord Shiva

On the way to Mahadeva the pilgrims leaving Harwan behind, come across a huge boulder which they shower with flowers as token of reverence. This huge boulder is known as Shankerun Pal meaning the boulder of Lord Shiva. In Shivsutra Vimershima, it is recorded that sage Vasugupta - the founder of Shiva philosophy of Kashmir - lived in Harvan in a hermitage. One night he saw lord Shiva in a dream who seemed moved with compassion at Vasuguptas helplessness in arguing before Buddhistic scholars. To enlighten him the Lord disclosed to the sage, the existence of a rock on which some sacred Shiv Sutras were inscribed. Vasugupta was further directed to proceed on spot early before sun rise, when by his mere touch, the rock would overturn by itself and expose four Shiv Sutras to him which he should learn and teach to worthy pupils. The huge boulder with almost smooth surface is still pointed out as one on which the sage Vasugupta found the inscription.
At present there is no trace of any inscription on it, and it is believed that the boulder over turned after the inscriptions were copied by Vasugupta. According to Kshemendra the very sutras became the foundation of Advaita Shaivism of Kashmir known as Trika.

Budbrari Or Beda Devi Spring

(Where snow does not fall within a radius of 350 ft. ) Towards the south of village Kellar, high up in the small valley of Birnai Nallah which connects Drubgam by a direct route with the Pir Panchal pass of the old Moghul Road, there is a stone lined spring bubbling with milky water. It is situated on a hillock with low-lying area on all sides and so is free from mountain torrents. It is 7800 ft. above thesea level in the Romeshi Forest Range. Snow does not fall within 125 Hastas a radius of 350 ft. from the spring. The holy spring is square shaped and in measurement is 50 ft square. The water is milky white and is shallow near the banks. The source of the water is in the centre and is very deep, so much so that once a buffalo got swallowed there leaving no trace behind. Because of this incident shepherds do not let their cattle stray near the holy spring which accounts for the clean and tidy premises of the fount. The spring is full of water through out the year. It has a beautiful forest full of fir and pine for its background. While going up to reach the holy spring from Keller one comes across a small hamlet known as Shukroo. From the hamlet upto the sacred spring a number of mounds can be seen under which bricks lie buried which show that long ago thereexisted some human habitation near the holy spring. Some three chains away from the sacred spring there is a small waterfall which emits a sulphuric smell. The local gojars told me that patients suffering from rheumatism and skin diseases get relieved by having a bath in this water. Lime is also found buried here and there. There are no idols nor any ruins of any temple here except a boulder on which Shiva Lingas are carved. The sacred spring must have been a very popular Tirtha in the Kashmir Valley. Kalhana in his Rajatarangini writes: "There the Goddess Saraswati was believed to have shown herself as a swan in a lake situated on the summit of the hill ". Though in the present era it is forgotten by people, the old Mahatmya of the sacred lake has survived and Shri.M. A. Stein who visited the Valley in 1890-95 and has translated Rajatarangini into English has identified the site known at present as Budbrari. At the end of 16th century when Hindus still made pilgrimage to the Tirtha, Abu Fazal has recorded; "Near Shukroo is a low hill on the summit of which is a fountain, which flows throughout the year, is a place of pilgrimage for the devout. The snow does not fall on this spur."
It is related that in ancient times Rishi Pulastya performed long penance here and made the holy Ganga push forth near Ashram. He further craved for a boon that it may rest forever by his side which was granted. It is thus that Ganga Behda Tirtha got created. The Goddess Saraswati (Goddess of speech ) appeared to him in the shape of a swan which the Rishi worshipped on the 8th and 9th of the bright fortnight of Chitra of each year. Ever since the Goddess Saraswati has been receiving worship at the Ganga Behda Tirtha. Nilmat Purana recounts the Tirtha as Ganga Behda and is included in the list of Tirthas mentioned in the epic of Mahabharat. This establishes the antiquity of the Tirtha.
I visited this holy Fount in Oct. 1976. From Srinagar via Pulwama regular bus service is available upto village Keller wherefrom one is to cover a distance of 9 km. either on horseback or on foot. The enchanting scenery, the green meadows with Nallah Birnai flowing at the foot of the hillock, the spring bubbling with milky white water is a thing to be ever remembered. The site if connected to a pucca road from Keller Masapora will prove the greatest attraction for tourists and will provide means of livelihood for poor Gujjars who inhabit the neighbourhood of the sacred spot popularly known as Bujbrari.

The Chinar of Prayag

Which Neither Grows Nor Decays With Time Early settlers in Kashmir named their new places of settlement after the names which they cherished most in India. Such a place is Prayag at Shadipur, situated at a distance of 18 km. in the north west of Srinagar city. It is situated at the confluence of the river Sindhu and the river Vitasta, similarly as Prayag in India stands at the confluence of the river Yamuna and the river Ganga. The place has enjoyed exceptional sanctity as a Tirtha since times immemorial. Here, as a Prayag in India, Hindus immerse the sacred ashes of their deceased relatives. Opposite to Shadipur village once there stood a temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu.
At the confluence of the river Sindhu and the river Vitasta there is a small island built of solid masonary on which an old chinar stands, which shelters a few idols and statues. The chinar neither grows in size nor decays with time. It has taken the place of the famous Ficus Indica. There is a popular legend among people here that the island rises when the rivers get swollen with flood waters so as rising tides cannot touch the Chinar. The Chinar has found its place in the vocabulary of Kashmiri dialect and is referred to when the size of a boy or a girl is found stunted !

Kah-Kah-Pal

The stone which rises up when persons numbering 11 touch it with their index fingers At a distance of 32 km. towards the south of Srinagar city on the National Highway there is a town-Bijbehra on the left bank of the River Jhelum. At the southern tip of the town there is a massive stone temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. In the compound of the same temple there is a conch shaped stone tapering at one end which is popularly known as Kah-Kah-Pal. The stone does not weigh more than 60 kilos or more and one adult person can move it from side to side.
The marvel of the stone gets apparent when 11 persons encircle it, and apply their 11 index fingers to the base of the stone. While repeating Kah-Kah ( eleven-eleven ) the stone gets lifted above the ground. The stone is popularly know as Kah-Kah-Pal which in Kashmiri means the digit eleven. The stone is in the custody of the pujari of the temple. Many stories and legends about the stone are attributable to it. For example it is related that once it was thrown into the river and next day it reappeared on the bank of the river. I have dismissed such legends as mere heresay.

Takshak Nag

At a distance of 10 km, towards the east of Srinagar city there is a village known at present as Zewan. The spring known Takshak Nag is situated in this village. It is said that saffron has originated from the spring and that its cultivation has spread in its neighbourhood. It is related that the Lord of the Spring offered Hakim Waga Bhat, the saffron bulbs as a token of reward for curing his eye ailment. Bilhan the great Sanskrit poet who flourished in 11th century and was born at Khunmoh ( a village at a distance of 5 km. towards the east of Zewan ). He described the spring as "A pool filled with pure water sacred to Takshak the Lord of snakes ", Abdul Fazal records the facts that this spring is held to be the place wherefrom saffron originated and flourished in the neighbourhood.
In the time of Akbar, the cultivators worshipped at the spring at the beginning of each spring season. To get successful crops it was customary to pour cow's milk in it. As a local divinity Takshak Naga retained sanctity and importance for long with cultivators. Pilgrims when on their way to Harishwar cave offer Puja at the spring on the twelfth of the dark fortnight of Jeth corresponding to the month of June.
Where relating the story of Chander lekha-the beautiful Naga damsel-the great poet Historian, Kalhana mentions the name of the spring in the Rajatarangini as a place of pilgrimage. The inclusion Or the spring as a Tirtha in the list of Tirthas recorded in Mahabharata signifies its antiquity.
At present the spring stands intact with embankments of chiselled stones full of pure and sweet water. The spring measures 50' x 50' and has depth of 3'. The water source is in the North east corner of the spring.

Lal Trag at Pampore

In the South of Srinagar at a short distance there is a small town as Pampore, at present famous for saffron cultivation. In the centre of this town there is a pond measuring 50' x 250' with varying depths of 2' to 5'. It is known as Lal Trag. The pond is held in great reverence by Hindus as well as Muslims of the locality, since the tank happens to be connected with an important event in the life of Laleshwari popularly known as Lal Ded in the valley. Laleshwari flourished in the 14th century. She sang of divine love, tolerance, secularism and universal brotherhood when Persia lay prostrate under conquering feet of Timrlane and Black Death hovered over the British islands. The great mystic poetess chose the common man's language for expression of her subtle spiritual ideas. She was the harbinger of new patriotic awakening and laid the foundation of Kashmiri song and poetry. Her couplets are so popular even at present times that a Kashmiri gets spell-bound when he hears some village minstrel singing them for some audience.
Lal Ded was born at village Sempore in the year 1317 A. D. and was married at Pampore. Her married life was most unhappy. She had initiation from her spiritual Guru known as Sedu Mole as the practice in vogueat that time. Her mother-in-law at the time of serving mealswould keep a round stone in the dish and cover it with a little of boiled rice for Laleshwari. She was subjected to this mal-treatment of near starvation for not less than 12 years, untill her father-in-law came to know about it. Her husband under the provocation of his mother would always find fault with his saintly wife. One day when Lal Ded returned from the river with one earthen pitcher full of water on her shoulder, her husband hurled a stone on the pitcher which broke into pieces and fell on the ground. To the amazement and horror of mother and son, the water remained intact like a frozen piece on the shoulder of Lal Ded. Instantly all the empty pots got filled with water and the rest of the water was thrown away from the window on to the ground where it assumed the form of a pond and is existing there till today. The tank became known as Lal Trag. The fame of the miracle spread like wild fire in the valley and Lal Ded began to shine like a pole star over the spiritual firmament of the Kashmir Valley.
Among Hindus of Pampore, on a marriage ceremony the bridegroom offers Puja at the tank before he enters the house of the bride. Muslims pour cow's milk into it as a token of respect. Some locals bathe their children in order to cure them of scabbies and other skin diseases. The elders in the locality saw that the tank never get dried even when the valley happened to be in the grip of severe drought. This holy pond is in dire need of repairs and renovations because of its national importance in the valley. Such is the legend of Lal Trag at Pampore.

Harmukh

Towards North-East of Srinagar city there stands one conspicuous hoary headed mountain overlooking the Gangabal Lake. It is known as Harmukh meaning thereby that the peak appears same from all sides. It is situated at an elevation of 16890ft. The reverence which ancient Greeks had for Olympus,the Kashmiris have for Harmukh since they believe that on its top is the abode of Lord Shiva. Shamus-Faqir a well known Kashmiri poet in one of the songs says, "Thou knower of truth if you want to see Him face to face you can see Him at Harmukh." Sir Walter Lawrence, the Settlement Commissioner of J & K State, has recorded about 100 years ago in his book "Valley of Kashmir" that Kashmiris in general believe that there is a mine of jewels and rubies in Harmukh. The inhabitants of the valley believe that wherever the Harmukh peak is visible in the Valley, the serpents of the place happen to be quite harmless, and on the other hand, the peak is not visible the serpents of the locality are poisonous and their bites are fatal. In Illaqa Pulwama where the peak is visible the snakes are quite harmless and at village Lar where it is invisible the serpents are poisonous.
At the foot of Harmukh there is one beautiful lake known as Gangabal Lake. In the month of September corresponding to the bright fortnight of Bahadun, Kashmiri Pandits immerse the urns ( ashes ) of their dead relatives in this lake after performing their Shraddha. No sooner are the ashes cast in the crystal clear water of the lake, than swarms of small red worms appear on the surface and render the water unfit for drinking purposes. The pilgrims know it, and therefore, cook their meals before casting ashes in the lake.
Long ago some pilgrims gave me to understand that they saw a small channel with mercury flowing down the mountain side into the lake. Having no container with them they collected a little quantity of the same in a dried piece of cowdung. On reaching their destination they found ~he mercury slipped down somewhere on their way back.
Once a hermit tried to reach the summit of the Harmukh to see Lord Shiva face to face. For twelve years long he tried to scale the summit, but failed until one day he saw a gojar descending the summit. When the gojar approached him, the hermit enquired as to what he saw there. The gojar whose goat had strayed and for whom he had been searching, said that he saw a couple milking a cow and drinking the same in a human skull. They had offered some milk to him, which he refused to drink and when they departed they rubbed a little of the milk on his forehead. As the gojar indicated the spot on his forehead where the milk was rubbed, the hermit was extremely joyful and rushed to lick his forehead. It is said that the hermit got Nirvana and diasppeared from the place, to the entire surprise of the gojar. The legend is known as Hurmukhuk Gosoni.

                                                    MATA KHEER BHAWANI KASHMIR

                                                     POSTED BY : VIPUL KOUL 
                                                     EDITED BY :  ASHOK KOUL   
                                                      

Monday, May 14, 2012

The Story of Ganga

The Story of Ganga

The source of Ganga is at Gaumukh (the shape of the ice formation is like a cow's mouth), where the mighty river emerges from the depths of Gangotri glacier. The Gangotri glacier is situated at the height of4255 m above sea level and is approx 24 km in length and 7-8 km in width.

Here the river is known as Bhagirathi after  King -Bhagirath. Rising in the icy caves of Gangotri glacier, the gushing , tossing and gurgling Bhagirathi starts its long journey downwards where later it joins river 'Alaknanda' and becomes Ganga.There are many legends associated with river Ganga, some of which are even mentioned in the ancient holy scriptures.

The River From Heaven- According to the Indian mythology King Sagar had 60,000 sons. He defeated all the asuras (daemons)  in the earth and wanted to stage a Ashwamedha Yagya to declare his supremacy. For this as was the practice prevalent in ancient times, he sent his horse across the earth accompanied by his sons.
The King of Heaven, Lord Indra feared the power of King Sagar and to stop him, he stole the horse and tied it to the ashram of Sage Kapil. When the 60,000 sons saw the horse in Kapil's ashram they got furious and started to attack the hermitage. Sage Kapil was in deep meditation and on hearing the disturbance he opened his eyes in anger and all the 60,000 sons of King Sagar were reduced to ashes, except for prince Asamanjas.
Anshuman the grandson of King Sagar brought  the horse back from the Sage and asked for his forgiveness. Sage Kapil told  him that the sons can be brought to life only if Ganga is brought from heaven to earth. Neither Anshuman nor  his son Dilip were successful in this task.  But Dilip's son, Bhagirath was determined to get this task done. He started meditating intensly for several years and finally Ganga got pleased and descended to the earth. To prevent the earth from flooding, Lord Shiva received Ganga on his matted locks.  King Bhagirath then worshipped Lord Shiva and Shiva blessed him and released Ganga from his locks in seven streams.  The water of Ganga touched the ashes of Sagar sons who rose to the their eternal rest in heaven. The seven streams of Ganga are Bhagirathi, Janhvi, Bhilangana, Mandakini, Rishiganga, Saraswati and Alaknanda which merge into Ganga at Devprayag. The rock on which King Bhagirath is believed to have meditated, is called Bhagirath Shila and is located near the temple of Ganga. To this date the water of holy Ganga is believed to have Amrit (nectar) in it. It has been studied by Scientists that the water collected from Ganga at its origin is in a pure state and even after being kept for several years, does not get contaminated.. These medicinal properties of Ganga-Jal are attributed to the medicinal secretions of herbs and mineral content which get mixed with the water.
 
Introduction and map of

   
   
 



 
  Sundarbans the world’s largest Ganga delta
  Sundarbans the world’s largest Ganga delta 

 
 
Ganga
 
The Ganga (गगां) is a major river of the Indian subcontinent rising in the Himalaya Mountains and flowing about 2,510 km (1,560 mi) generally eastward through a vast plain to the Bay of Bengal. On its 1,560-mi (2,510-km) course, it flows southeast through the Indian states of Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, and West Bengal. In central Bangladesh it is joined by the Brahmaputra (ब्रम्हपुत्र) River and Meghna rivers. Their combined waters (called the Padma River) empty into the Bay of Bengal and form a delta 220 mi (354 km) wide, which is shared by India and Bangladesh. Its plain is one of the most fertile and densely populated regions in the world. The Ganges alone drains an area of over a million square km with a population of over 407 million. Millions depend on water from the holy river for several things: drinking, bathing, agriculture, industry and other household chores.

 
   Ganga river known as Ganga Maata (गगां माता) or Mother Ganges is revered as a goddess whose purity cleanses the sins of the faithful and aids the dead on their path toward heaven. In most Hindu families, a vial of water from the Ganga is kept in every house. It is believed that drinking water from the Ganga with one's last breath will take the soul to heaven. Hindus also believe life is incomplete without bathing in the Ganga at least once in their lifetime. Some of the most important Hindu festivals and religious congregations are celebrated on the banks of the river Ganga such as the Kumbh Mela or the Kumbh Fair and the Chhat Puja.  Kumbh Mela (कुम्भ मेला) is  the largest religious gathering on Earth for Hindu peoples, where around 70 million Hindus from around the world participated in the last Kumbh Mela at the Hindu Holy city Prayaga (also known as Allahabad).
  The upper Ganges supplies water to extensive irrigation works. The river passes the holy bathing sites at Haridwar, Allahabad (where the Yamuna river enters the Ganga), and Varanasi. Below Allahabad the Ganges becomes a slow, meandering stream with shifting channels. Because of its location near major population centers, however, the river is highly polluted. The Ganga collects large amounts of human pollutants as it flows through highly populous areas. These populous areas, and other people down stream, are then exposed to these potentially hazardous accumulations. 

Goumukh: Ganga source

Ganga or, more exactly, Bhagirathi, originates from Gangotri glacier, one of the biggest glaciers in Himalayas. The place, where Bhagirathi flows out from Gangotri, it called "Goumukh". This word means "Cow mouth". Indeed, with use of imagination this icy cave reminds a cow.

Its not easy to reach Goumukh. It is in 19 kilometers from the nearest settlement to which one can go by car (Gangotri). Considering that the way to Goumukh starts at 3 km above the sea level, the road to cave is not only far but also difficult for physically unprepared travellers. In Gangotri one can rent a donkey - it will cost around 600 rupees one way.

Way to Goumukh is, of course, better than mountain trails used by gangs running from justice. But it also doesn't remind us beutiful road from Kedarnath to Gaurikund.
















Comparison with the road to Kedarnath comes by itself - first of all, Kedarnath is quite close. Second of all it is also unreachable by a car. In comparison to this road way to Goumukh is much less active and looks like forsaken place. It is more tight (in some segments it is even impossible to go on donkey), it goes up and down. Elevation changes are only 800 meters onlike 1500 meters between Gaurikund and Kedarnath.

By the way, the road is to be paid for. We were asked to pay 150 rupees for each foreigner and 40 fot each indian. Also 25 rupees for a donkey. If we would have a tent we would be asked more. Same with videocamera.

All the way to Goumukh you will enjoy glamorous vews of Ganga. Approximetely on a half way you will see Bhagirathi and Shivlinga mountains.


The road takes from 7 to 8 hours, depending from your motivation and physical endurance. On the way you can take a primitive food in caffs, wrongly marked on a map as villages. In sober fact these are indian dhabas appallingservice quality and terrific prices - half a liter of Coca-cola bottle will cost 30-40 rupees. But it is also true that in Himalayas you don't have so much appetite. And there are a lot of clean mountain streams from which you can drink for free.

There is a small hotel 5 kilometers before Goumukh. You can even find electricity there. It is possible to charge cameras there and to take a nap (its expensive, one tent for 8 people costs around 2 thousand rupees).


The Goumukh cave, the source of the holy river Ganga (Bhagirathi), is at a height of 3.8 km above the sea level.

The cave is called icy for some reason. Right after it the Gangotri glacier starts - one of the largest Himalaya glacier.


Even in summer pieces of ice fall away from the glacier and float in impetuous torrent. The water temperature is near 0 degrees. Don't think about swimming there - the water flow is not only cold but also quick. So you will be dead with cold almost immidietely.

Near the cave (last 500 meters you need to go by foot even if you arrived on a donkey - the road is very stony) one can see many small streams of a melting glacier.
















It is very pleasent to be near the cave. It is a very beautiful place: you can enjoy the view of two very high mountaints (Bhagiratri and Shivlinga). On a photo below there is Bhagirathi mountain.


From the other point of view, the holy river itslef can impress even a strong atheist.

In a time of a long journey towards Goumikh the surrounding beauty invisible reaches the very inside of your being. And it is no longer important that everything around you is extremely beautiful - the beauty itself reached your heart and it doesn't dissapear even if you close your eyes.

I recalled the foredoom of Shri Adi Shankaracharya. Many centuries ago this great saint, while travalling last time in Himalayas, went into a samadhi by entering inside the mountain. He left only a stick after himself, which disciples of this great master found. The undoubtful reality of this misctic action and, above all, its meaningfulness, was felt very clearly in Goumukh.

In spite of lack of oxygen, tiredeness after 8 hours journey and dissapointing of being in totally unsettled area (on the way you can find only two-three shabby dhabas and one bunkhouse), your heart is full of tranquility and happiness, and life is full of meaning. It is quite a surprising feeling - you drink a tea, eat chapatti and experience a union with the entire universe at the same time.

Mountaints stagger the imagination. The huge Shivlinga and massive Bhagirathi are amazing (Shivlinga is the first the the left, Bhagirathi - on the right).


As in any truly sacred place, Goumukh calls you to stay there forever. I beleive that in this place it is as pleasant to meet your last days as in Kedarnath, Arunachala and Varanasi.


The road to Goumukh is closed from November to April. I suppose even in October there are heavy snowfalls.
posted by : vipul koul           edited by : ashok koul