HISTORY OF AMARNATH CAVE

The Amaranth Cave was discovered by a Muslim shepherd of Batakot, Buta Malik, when he lost his flock and found that it had strayed into the sacred spot some 150 years ago. There is a documentry proof of this discovery. Even today his family receives some part of the alms offered by pilgrims. On the other hand, to prove that the holy cave and the ice lingam were known to the people since very ancient times and have been continuously and regularly visited by pilgrims not only from Kashmir but also from different parts of India. While the earliest reference to Amarnath can be seen in the Nilamata Purana (v.1324), a 6th century Sanskrit text which depicts the religious and cultural life of early Kashmiris and gives Kashmir’s own creation myth, the pilgrimage to the holy cave has been described with full topographical details in the Bhringish Samhita and the Amarnatha Mahatmya, both ancient texts said to have been composed even earlier. References to Amarnath, known have also been made in historical chronicles like the Rajatarangini and its sequels and several Western travellers’ accounts also leaving no doubt about the fact that the holy cave has been known to people for centuries. The original name of the tirtha, as given in the ancient texts, is of course Amareshwara, Amarnath being a name given later to it.

Giving the legend of the Naga Sushruvas, who in his fury burnt to ashes the kingdom of King Nara when he tried to abduct his daughter already married to a Brahmin youth, and after the carnage took his abode in the lake now known as Sheshnag (Kashmiri Sushramnag), Kalahana writes:

“The lake of dazzling whiteness [resembling] a sea of milk (Sheshnag), which he created [for himself as residence] on a far off mountain, is to the present day seen by the people on the pilgrimage to Amareshwara.”(Rajatarangini, Book I v. 267.Translation: M. A. Stein).

 

This makes it very clear that pilgrims continued to visit the holy Amarnath cave in the 12th century, for Kalhana wrote his chronicle in the years1148-49.

At another place in the Rajatarangini (Book II v. 138), Kalhana says that King Samdhimat Aryaraja (34 BCE-17CE) used to spend “the most delightful Kashmir summer” in worshiping a linga formed of snow “in the regions above the forests”. This too appears to be a reference to the ice linga at Amarnath. There is yet another reference to Amareshwara or Amarnath in the Rajatarangini (Book VII v.183). According to Kalhana, Queen Suryamati, the wife of King Ananta (1028-1063), “granted under her husband’s name agraharas at Amareshwara, and arranged for the consecration of trishulas, banalingas and other [sacred emblems]”.

 

In his Chronicle of Kashmir, a sequel to Kalhana’s Rajatarangini, Jonaraja relates that that Sultan Zainu’l-abidin (1420-1470) paid a visit to the sacred tirtha of Amarnath while constructing a canal on the left bank of the river Lidder (vv.1232-1234) . The canal is now known as Shah Kol.

 

In the Fourth Chronicle named Rajavalipataka, which was begun by Prjayabhatta and completed by Shuka, there is a clear and detailed reference to the pilgrimage to the sacred site (v.841,vv. 847-849). According to it, in a reply to Akbar’s query about Kashmir Yusuf Khan, the Mughal governor of Kashmir at that time, described among other things the Amarnath Yatra in full detail. His description shows that the not only was the pilgrimage in vogue in Akbar’s time – Akbar annexed Kashmir in 1586 – but the phenomenon of waxing and waning of the ice linga was also well known.

Amareshwar (Amarnath) was a famous pilgrimage place in the time of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan also. In his eulogy of Shah Jahan’s father-in-law Asif Khan, titled “Asaf Vilas”, the famous Sanskrit scholar and aesthete Panditraj Jagannath makes clear mention of Amareshwara (Amarnath) while describing the Mughal garden Nishat laid out by Asif Khan. The King of gods Indra himself, he says, comes here to pay obeisance to Lord Shiva”.

 

As we well know Francois Bernier, a French physician accompanied Emperor Aurangzeb during his visit to Kashmir in 1663. In his book “Travels in Mughal Empire” he writes while giving an account the places he visited in Kashmir that he was “pursuing journey to a grotto full of wonderful congelations, two days journey from Sangsafed” when he “received intelligence that my Nawab felt very impatient and uneasy on account of my long absence”. The “grotto” he refers to is obviously the Amarnath cave as the editor of the second edition of the English translation of the book, Vincient A. Smith makes clear in his introduction. He writes: “The grotto full of wonderful congelations is the Amarnath cave, where blocks of ice, stalagmites formed by dripping water from the roof are worshipped by many Hindus who resort here as images of Shiva…..”

 

Another traveler, Vigne, in his book “Travels in Kashmir, Ladakh and Iskardu” writes about the pilgrimage to the sacred spot in detail, clearly mentioning that “the ceremony at the cave of Amarnath takes place on the 15th of the Hindoo month of Sawan” and that “not only Hindoos of every rank and caste can be seen collecting together and traveling up the valley of Liddar towards the celebrated cave……” Vigne visited Kashmir after his return from Ladakh in 1840-41 and published his book in 1842. His book makes it very clear that the Amarnath Yatra drew pilgrims from the whole of India in his time and was undertaken with great enthusiasm.

 

Again, the great Sikh Guru Arjan Dev is said to have granted land in Amritsar for the ceremonial departure of Chari, the holy mace of Lord Shiva which marks the beginning of the Yatra to the Holy Cave . In 1819, the year in which the Afghan rule came to an end in Kashmir, Pandit Hardas Tiku “founded the Chhawni Anmarnath at Ram Bagh in Srinagar where the Sadhus from the plains assembled and where he gave them free rations for the journey, both ways from his own private resources”, as the noted Kashmiri naturalist Pandit Samsar Chand Kaul has pointed out in his booklet titled “The Mysterious cave of Amarnath”. Not only this, Amarnath is deeply enshrined in the Kashmiri folklore also as stories like that of Soda Wony clearly show. One can, therefore, conclude without any doubt that the Amaranth Yatra has been going on continuously for centuries along the traditional route of the Lidder valley and not a century and a half affair. May be during the Afghan rule when religious persecution of the Kashmiri Hindus was at its height and they were not allowed to visit their places of worship the pilgrimage was discontinued for about fifty or sixty years and during this period the flock of some shepherd may have strayed into the holy cave, but that in no way makes it of a recent origin or a show window of so-called Kashmiriat.

 

The temple is reported to be about 5,000 years old^[1] and was mentioned in ancient Hindu texts. The exact manner of discovery of the cave is not known.

The Amarnath Yatra, according to Hindu belief, begins on Ashadha Purnima (day of the Full Moon in the Hindu Month of Ashadha) and ends on Shravana Purnima (day of the full moon in the Hindu month of Shravana).

 

 

 POSTED BY: VIPUL KOUL 

EDITED BY   :ASHOK KOUL

Playing an ancient game with Haar'e

Playing an ancient game with Haar'e

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She walked away from the dark crowded room that was drowning in screams of game induced frenzy. Shivratri was days away and people of the house had already been playing the game for weeks now. In the room on the third floor, young boys were standing in the outer circle as the old men in center rolled shells and prayed for luck. The legend, the old man of the house, much to the amusement of the young and learning, was rolling a big hand of Cowries. It was a win all-lose all situation. The old man filled both his hands with Cowries, without giving the shells a shake, even though his big hand could still easy manage it, with an easy flick action he threw the shells down on the floor. As the shells rolled, tossed and turned on the smooth mud floor, old man bent his head down, he was  going to lose, his experience told him that much, rest what he did was all instinct, his eyes locked onto a shell, still rolling- but it was going to be a Slit, he needed a Mount for Quin, old man's will dropped down on the shell, sitting on his two feet like a giant bird, he put his mouth near the shell that had almost stopped in a Slit and screamed his lungs out. He screamed out the words, his war-cry: Cht'ye Pat'e Tekri Astin'da.
Like a miracle, the shell turned, one more time. A Mount. It was Quin complete. He won. Wild celebrations broke out. Cht'ye Pat'e Tekri Astin'da. Cht'ye Pat'e Tekri Astin'da. Most of the old onlookers had a look of astonishment, the old timers were still astonished by this trick. They would have wanted to discuss if it was fair play. But the young saw it as a fete, a miraculous win. They were screaming with joy.

The young bride walked away from the dark crowded room that was drowning in screams of this game induced frenzy. She heard the young singing a strange song. She had her own song to sing. And old song. She walked to the big window, took in the sight, it was still a new sight, this was going to be her new house and new family, the house was old, its mores still older. She looked down to the street, the sight of her on the window had already started a motion down on the street. Young kids of the neighborhood, poor old urchins, all Muslims were gathering. She smiled. She reached for the inside of the fancy little bag that she was carrying in her one hand. She took out Haar'e from the bag that she had brought with her from her father's house, a bagful of Haar'e just for this day. She filled her hand with Haar'e and started to throw them down on the street. They say in the old days these shells were the currency, the money. While she showered Haar'e down on the street and onto the lapping crowd of little boys, she sang:

Baz'e Chek'e Haar'e Ma'e
Yus Tul'e
Tsu'e Pa'helwaan


For the Eagles
I sprinkle these Cowries
The one who picks them
the one be a strong man

-0-

How to Play with Haar'e/ Haran Gindun

Objective: Take all the shells of your opponents.

Number of players: No limit.

Start: At the start all players contribute a fixed number of shells (usually four) each to form a pool of playable shells for the round. The unit that each player contributes is known as Tchakh. When the playable shells are finished each player again contributes his share of Tchakh till he or she can no longer offer any and hence is out of the game.

First turn: To decide who will throw first a special throw of shells is arranged. Each player contributes a special, uniquely identifiable shell, say a shell with a broken edge or a hole. This shell is known as Botul. To decide who will go first, players take turns to roll the collected Botuls. You win the right to go first if your Botul stands out. The entire game is about shells standing out. A stand out would typically mean that all the other shells are in Mount state and your shell is in Slit state or vice versa.

In the scenario presented in the above image we can say that the owner of the shell with the hole can go first. his Botul won. The next turn may be decided in the same way or you can choose to have turns clockwise or anti-clockwise.

Each Botul is returned to its respective owner. And the play begins.

Play: Each player takes turns to roll the shells.

There is no particular way to throw the shells, only rule is do not obviously turn the shell for your benefit.

The outcome of the each turn, whether you won or won nothing, is based how the shells turned, whether you turned a certain number of shells to Mount state or Slit state.

In the above scenario the player rolling the shells got one shell in Slit state and rest all in Mount State. This is the best possible scenario. It is known a Quin. The scenario in which one shell is in Mount State and all the rest are in Slit state is also a Quin. The player wins all the shells on the floor. In this case eight shells. Other players pool more shells based on the pre-decided quantity of Tchakh. The turn of the winner continues and the the game continues. If the player had turned one more shell to Slit, he could have only picked two shells.

In the above scenario the player threw a dud, all the shells are in Mount state. This is known a Tsooyt.

The above scenario is also a Tsooyt as all the shells turned Slit.

In case of Tsooyt the player does not get to pick up any shells from the floor and the turn passes onto the next player.

In the above scenario player got three eyes or To'l Tr'y - three slits. The player loses. If it had been four Slits, he could have picked four shells and the turn (Baaz in Kashmiri or Baazi in Hindustani ) would have shifted to the next player.

Another To'l Tr'y scenario. Three Mounts and rest are Slits. One more mount and he could have picked four shells. And so the game goes one until everyone else has lost all his shells and you are sitting on a huge pile of shells.

In this way, a good game of Haar'e is played and enjoyed.

Also, if one finds the rules too tough to follow, or if one is looking for some simple fun with Shells. One can also play with them like this:

      Hit the Shell to claim it.    POSTED BY .......................VIPUL KOUL. EDITED BY .....................................ASHOK KOUL 

 

  

       

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                                                     

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                 

Four Famous Poetesses of Kashmir

by Jawahar Kaul Ganhar
Koshur Samachar

Kashmir, which is known as the 'paradise on earth', has been the abode of eminent scholars, savants, historians and poets, like Bilhan, Mamatachary, Anandavardhana, Gunaverman, Abhinavagupta, Jonaraja, Kalhana, etc. These luminaries had mastery over Sanskrit language. During the Muslim rule, Persian became the court language. Kashmiri scholars did not lag behind in acquiring mastery in this language also and produced scholars and poets like Gani Kashmiri, Munshi Bhawani Dass Kachroo, Hyder Malik Chadura, Narayan Kaul Ajiz, Muhammad Azam Didmari, etc. Besides them, there were saints and poets who preferred to use their own Kashmiri dilect for conveying their messages and thoughts. These included both men and women. Most prominent among them were Sheikh Noor-u-Din Noorani, Lal Ded, Rupa Bhawani, Habba Khatoon and Arinimaal. Lalla Yogeshwari or Lel Ded and Rupa Bhawani are famous for their spiritual eminence and truth to their devotees and the people. As against these two saint-poetesses, Arinimaal and Habba Khatoon are famous for their love lore and romantic poetry.
Lal Ded and Habba Khatoon belong to the Pampore area of the Valley, which is famous for its saffron cultivation, while Rupa Bhawani belongs to Srinagar city and Arinimal to village Palhalan. These poetesses were married but their married life was not happy and blissful. They were ill-treated by their husbands and mothers-in-law. Another common trait among these great poetesses is that whatever they have said or sung is in their mother-tongue - Kashmiri.
Lalleshwari
Lal Ded was a saint-philospher, born in the middle of the 14th century of the Chnstian era, which was a period of political and religious turmoil in Kashmir. Her parents lived near Pandrenthen Sempore, which is about 5 miles away from the capital city of Srinagar. She was married at an early age to a Brahmin boy in village Pampore. She was maltreated at her in-laws. Her mother-in-law always starved her, but she never raised the finger against her. It is said that once there was going to be some feast in her home. While fetching water from the river, she was told by her friends: "You must be having lavish dishes at home tonight"? Lalleshwari replied: "Whether they (in-laws) slaughtered a big sheep or a small one, Lalla always has a stone for her dinner" (a practice with her mother-in-law of putting a stone in her thali and covering it thinly with rice to look it like a big heap to others).
Lalla left her home and became a yogni. Her guru was Sidha-Bayu, an eminent scholar (of Sanskrit literature) of the time. She learned yoga and meditation under the guru and later on she excelled her guru. She had an opportunity to meet the Sayeds who came from Iraq. She had long discussions and frequent arguments with them on religion, etc. She fills her teachings with many truths that are common to all religious philosophies. All religions were to her merely paths leading to the same goal. She never differentiated between a Hindu and a Musalmaan. Her vaakhs (poetry) lay more stress on recognising one's ownself, which is the true knowledge of God. She says that the cause of all our troubles is ego, which must be renounced. One must be moderate in food or drink. Overeating, she says, will lead us nowhere, while not eating will give rise to conceit. She has said that if one cannot realize God in this life, how can one realize Him after death.
Many myths, legends and miracles are woven round her name, which indicate the reverence in which she was held by Hindus and Muslims alike. The famous Patron saint-poet of Kashmir, Nund Rishi of Chrar-e-Sharief held her in high esteem and reverence. Her vaaks are commonly sung in Kashmir by all communities and have passed from generation to generation.
Lal Ded Hospital
It is said that Lal Ded lived a long life, preaching her gospel of love, brotherhood, unity and tolerance. and roamed within the Kashmir Valley. She was equally claimed both by Hindus and Muslims as their own at the time of her death. When the winding sheet was uncovered from her body, only a few flowers were seen on the bier to the pleasant surprise of all. After her death there was no monument in her memory. But it was only in 1981-82 that a women's hospital in Srinagar was named after this great saint- poetess as the Lal Ded Hospital, which was inaugurated by the then Chief Minister Sheikh Mohammad Abdullah. In Pampore town, there is a pond, known as Lala Trag after Lal Ded. This is the only place which is associated with her name till date.
It goes to the credit of this yogni who spread and preached the message of non-violence, simple living and high thinking as long back as the fourteenth century and thus became Lal Moj or Lal Ded both for Muslims and Hindus.
Rupa Bhawani
Rupa Bhawani was born in 1624 A.D. to a pious scholar, Pandit Madhav Joo Dhar, who lived in Mohallah Khanaqahi Sokhta near the present Safa Kadal. The girl born to him was named as Rupa. It is said that Pandit Madhav Joo Dhar used to perform parikrama of Hari Parbat daily and praying to Goddess Sharika. Due to this Bakhti and Sadhana to MataJagatAmba, the girl born to him was angelic in appearance.
In childhood, she was reared up with a lot of love and affection. At an early age, she was married to a learned youngman of Sapru family. But her marriage like that of Lal Ded did not last long. She was teased by her mother-in-law and by her husband also. It is said that her spiritual pursuits and meditation were not liked by them. As the marriage proved unhappy, she renounced the wordly life and became a yogni. She studied vedanta, yoga and other Hindu scriptures under her father who was her guru too. She wandered at a number of places in the valley and had discussions, etc, with Yogis, Sadhus and Darveshs.
It is said that Rupa Bhawani had during her life- time performed a number of miracles. Eyesight was restored to a person by her. Through her mere glance, a major fire was extinguished in village Manigam, near Lar in the present Srinagar district. Besides Srinagar, she did meditation at Waskura and Chashma Shahi, a beautiful place near the present Raj Bhawan. At these places, she held spiritual discourses and attracted devotees among both Hindus and Muslims. Being yogni, she was the mother to all, irrespective of caste, creed and religion and loved them all as her own children. She was revered as a manifestation of Goddes Sharika as her father was a great devotee of Her. She had faith in the Supreme Lord as the sole master of all creation.
Rupa Bhawani was well-versed in Sanskrit and Persian languages, but she used Kashmiri as the medium for expressing her thoughts and teachings, known as shruk (shalok). A Muslim faqir (saint) of her times, Shah Sadiq Qalandar, had great regard and admiration for her. He recorded her death, etc. in a Persian chronogram.
Rupa Bhawani left her mortal remains in the winter month of Magha Saptami of Krishna Paksha (January) at the age of about 97 years. Kashmiri Pandits in the valley have great respect for her. For the last more than 370 years, they are keeping a tast on her death anniversary, which is known as Sahib Saptami, as a mark of respect to this great soul.
Ashrams were built at Waskura, Manigam, Safa Kadal and other places by her devotees. A big hawan used to be performed on her death anniversery by the Rupa Bhawani Alak Sahiba Trust. On this occasion, Muslims of the area used to sell flowers, Kand (sugar candy), milk, etc, to the devotees. But due to the rise of militancy in the Kashmir Valley, no such ceremony takes place now in Kashmir at present since 1989-90.
To keep her sacred memory alive after the mass migration of Kashmiri Pandits in February-March 1990, the Pandits have constructed an ashram at Jammu near Talab-Tillo. The annual hawan is now performed here in which Kashmiri Pandits in large numbers participate.
Arinimaal
Arinimaal was born in eighteenth century to a Kashmiri Pandit family at village Palhalan in the Baramulla area. At that time, Kashmir was ruled by Pathans (Durrani dynasty). During this period, Kashmiris were subjected to the worst rule that the valley has ever witnessed.
It is said that Arinimaal was married in her childhood to Munshi Bhawani Dass Kachroo. Bhawani Dass was a respected person in the Afghan court. Jumma Khan, then Governor of Kashmir from 1788 to 1792, was less harsh than other Pathan rulers and he respected scholars and patronised the men of learning. By dint of hard work and intelligence, Bhawan Dass acquired mastery in Persian. Afghan dignitaries and officials were surprised over his calibre and erudition. He was a poet in Persian language. His Persian poems entitled "Bahar-i-Tavil" is considered a major contribution to the Persian language. He wrote under the pen name of "Naiku".
The early period of Arinimaal's married life was happier one. But these days did not last long. Her husband who was an important person in the Darbar fell into bad company and deserted her. Due to this, Arinimaal's heart broke and became dejected and forlorn. Possibly due to this painful separation, she must have taken to poetry.
Arinimaal sang of love, beauty and sorrow. Her poetry speaks of agony, dejection, pathos and disappointments. Her poetry melts the people's hearts. Through her poety, one comes across how she loved her husband. After separation, she returned to her parents' house who were kind and sympathetic towards her. The people of the village used to cut jokes at her expense. But it did not change her. It is said that, at an advanced age, Arinimaal took to the spinning wheel and spent her days in the hope that one day her love (husband) will return.
After some time, Bhawani Dass realised that he had been unkind to his wife. He decided to be with her again. He proceeded towards her village, and when he reached Palhalan, he saw that she was being carried for cremation. And it was too late.
There is no monument or anything of that sort in her memory in Kashmir but through her poetry she has become popular and continues till today.
A few years back, RADIO KASHMIR broad- casted a play on her. Besides, DOORDARSHAN, Srinagar, had also made a tele-film on her.
It may be mentioned in passing that my preceptor and eminent scholar, the late Shri Janki Nath Ganhar, used to refer to me to some literary talks he had with the great Kashmiri poet, the late Master Zinda Kaul, who had told the latter that many of the verses attributed to poetess Habba Khatoon actually belong to Arinimaal. Now it is for the eminent scholars of Kashmiri literature to delve deep into these questions and come to correct conclusions.
Habba Khatoon
Habba Khatoon was born in the middle of sixteenth century to a poor family in village Chandhar near Pampore. Her original name was Zoon (the moon). From her childhood, she was fond of singing. At a very young age, she was sent to madrassa (school) where she was taught Persian and also studied holy Quran. But her first love was poetry. Her parents were not happy over this and got her married to a village boy. He did not like her singing, etc. He used to feel ashamed to know that her wife was being admired by villagers. He advised her not to sing, but she did not stop singing. Relations between the husband and wife became strained. Her parents and in-laws pressed her a lot not to indulge in this hobby and behave like other girls of the village. But she ignored all advice.
It is said that one day she was plucking flowers in the fields and was deeply absorbed in her singing. At the same time, heir-apparent to the Kashmir throne, Yusuf Shah Chak, was passing by. He was thrilled by her singing. He enquired about the singer. When he met her, he was bewitched by her beauty. He craved to make her his wife. The prince then got her divorced from her first husband and married her.
The second marriage proved successful for some years and during this period she gave more time to her poetry and singing. Her fame as a poetess and musician travelled far and wide.
These happy days did not last long for her. Akbar, the Mughal emperor of India, annexed Kashmir to his empire in 1548 A.D. Yusuf Shah Chak was taken a prisoner and sent to Bihar. This separation caused great and unendurable pain to her and she became almost mad with grief. It is said that she left the royal palace and wandered aimlessly at various places of Kashmir. During her wanderings, she had been to Gurez a village on the bank of river Kishen Ganga in the Baramulla area. In this village, she spent some time near a small hill, which is known as Habba Bal (Hill of Hahba Khatoon) even today. The last days of her life were full of sorrow and suffering. It is said that she finally settled down near present Pantha Chowk where she passed her last days and lies buried there.
On her life, DOORDARSHAN had made a TV film and a number of dramas, both on radio and theatres, have been played. In 1988, a famous film director from Bombay tried to make a feature film on her but, unfortunately, it did not reach completion. To honour this Kashmiri poetess, a ship named as Habba Khatoon was commissioned into the service of the country by Prime Minister Indira Gandhi, another illustrious daughter of Kashmir.

 POSTED BY : VIPUL KOUL ....................NOW FAMOUS  PERSONALITY OF KASHMIR INDIA

PANCHMARHI SATPURAN HILLS

POSTED BY :VIPUL KOUL       EDITED BY :ASHOK KOUL

In Heavens Abode — Pachmarhi……. Satpura Hills

It was the day before Vijay Dashmi (Dusherra) i along with my companion , butterflies in our stomach , an eject button that one calls ,far away from the hustle bustle of this metro polis,in order to embark on an escapade , boarded the Jabalpur bound train from Delhi in the evening of 5th October 2011 heading towards the thick meadows and lush green washed Satpura Ranges to feel the heavens abode in a  place popularly known as the “Queen of The Satpura Mountains” — Pachmarhi.

We boarded the evening Delhi – Jabalpur Superfast on 5th October 2011 to get down at Pipariya in Hoshangabad district. Pipariya is the nearest railway station to Pachmarhi which is 54 km away. Pachmarhi is nearly 200 km away from the state capital,Bhopal.

Pipariya Railway Station

The next morning at 6.00 am we reached Pipariya … yes the train was late by 45 minutes . It started staggering at a snail pace  at Jhansi till Itarsi but gained momentum steadily towards the destination.The station had only two platforms occupied by almost all locals,many squatted relaxing & staring at the  people ,hurriedly we moved out of the station to find a bunch of taxiwallas encircling us ….. I said we’ll return after visiting the town in a bid to get rid of them.

There  was a mad chaos towards the streets with cows and bulls roaming in their most  fashionable gait.One can push you very easily with an unapologetic face,throwing a sigh at you saying “bhaiya dekh ke chalo” with a dissenting and relentless  tone on all your protests.  What a place? huh  and a welcome note of street  hawkers obstructing every way of one’s exit ,thinking pointless to move forward we resorted  back towards the railway station.

These are my impromptu remarks of the town ,sorry if i offend anybody but the fact lies in perception, which is variable to the extent of experience one gets.

There was only two good thing about Piparia .. one it marks the commencement of a brief journey into the rugged mountain ranges of Satpura’s and other was “Poha Jalebi“, a  breakfast cherished by almost everybody in  the Central India.So was i ,liked it considering the hunger pangs and the voluptuous taste .

One can avail local transport i.e..,  jeeps on sharing basis who charge around Rs.50/- per passenger. But i suggest that this option is not a  viable one , due to safety issues arising out of overloading and rash driving. There is also taxi service available  one can find outside the railway station. We hired a taxi for Rs.500 after a bargain …. yes the tariff is not fixed — one can bargain and get the best deal. The motive behind taking a taxi,for me was to capture the scenic beauty on the pathways towards the destination,which otherwise was not possible in a public conveyance stuffed with local junta .

 Gyarsi ..our driver sitting inside

But what a luck …. the taxi was in such a deplorable state of affairs that even a small jolt could pull the dashboard towards the seat!!!!!! ….. Don’t take it in literal sense  it’s just a metaphor !!!  …….. The Indica car had touch screen windows …… No !!!! please don’t take it as  some value added feature of the car. The windows needed a slight push of the palm in order to put it down and even  at the time of  pulling it upwards.Very funnily it was written “Chun Mun”  at the rear end of the car. I was exasperated initially thinking that this ride is not worth the pay but i calmed myself thinking of Pachmarhi.

We started our journey overlooking  the plains which ended near a small village known as “Matkuli“, which marks the commencement of the Satpura National Park and a divergent road towards Chinddwara,  towards Nagpur in Maharashtra. Nagpur is roughly 250 km away from Pachmarhi with heavy frequency of buses and public transport .

One can get a distant glimpse of the Satpura Ranges enveloped in smog,as it appears from a distance. It is only after a few miles from there the ranges are apparently seen covered with lush green blanket. I was exhilarated by the thought of reaching on top and smelling the fresh air of the hills. Our taxi driver …  his name ummm…if i can recollect was   Gyarsi Das , on a mute button until we reached a point on the midway ,  a village known as Bari Aam near Matkuli …. The main feature of this place was a small natural pond which was surrounded by small hillocks on one side and the road on the other.

The water appeared to be clear and i clicked this sun-bathed pictures of the pond , nothing was known from him about the history and eminence of the pond but this can be comprehended that its formation is only through rainwater and not as a result of the ponds formed by the Denwa river,description of which has been elaborated down in my narrative.

 From here onwards Gyarsi ,our driver started to speak about the Satpura National Park and wildlife sanctuary giving rough estimates of the flora and fauna subsiding within the periphery of the reserve.

SATPURA Mountain  ranges which separate the North India with the  Southern part,  extend from Eastern Gujarat(Rajpipla)   running east through Madhya Pradesh  till Chattisgarh (Rajmahal Hills) covering roughly around 900 km drained by Narmada in north and Tapti river in the southern belt.

Satpura Ranges

It is evident that Satpura ranges are situated between the Tapti and Narmada River basins with Vindhya Ranges running  parallel without any dissection.

The seven mountain ranges or folds of  Satpura’s are Maikal where Narmada finds it origin near Amarkantak ., then comes Mahadeo Hills near Pachmarhi., Kalibhit ,Asirgarh, Bijagarh, Barwani, Arwani which extends to Rajpipla Hills in Eastern Gujarat.

Going by  mythology it is propounded that the Satpura’s are the seven sons  of Vindhya Ranges ,their birth is not a matter of consequence ,but was to avert an overflowing angry Narmada river which in its wrath was drowning the whole earth.

Satpura Ranges as seen from Forsyth Point

This is not a populist version but only takes its refuge in myths and ancient folklore devoid of historical , geological and scientific promulgation.

Moving forward towards a stream flowing in a valley  is a point known as “Denwa Darshan“. One can overlook the Denwa river flowing down in the valley . Denwa is a tributary to the river Tawa. Tawa is the biggest tributary to the river Narmada.The Tawa river finds its origin near the rocky plateaus in  Betul district(South Madhya Pradesh),moves northwards from there and falls into Narmada before Hoshangabad. Denwa river acts as watershed for almost all gorges and valleys  of Pachmarhi surrounded by Mahadeo Hills,which is one among the seven folds of the Satpura Ranges.  It is somewhere near Matkuli , we stopped to view the valley engulfed with thick vegetation on both sides and a small stream flowing ,cutting through the rocks and pebbles of this beautiful chasm.

Denwa River Pachmarhi (Denwa Darshan)

Finally we reach the hill resort of  Pachmarhi after along  hour drive . We got down at the Central market of the town,strolled down the streets for a while, astounded with little information , no maps but with some  internet gyan about the hill resort .Pachmarhi is a walker’s paradise and a favorite destination for trekkers. Wrapped in lush green meadows and rinsed by the many streams and waterfalls,guarded by ancient temple shrines , Pachmarhi is a place to enjoy your holidays away from the concrete jungle. I scouted for some “Poha Jalebi” which we had in Pipariya but to my distress none had it in the market. With no idea about the terrain just some information ripped from the internet,we thought to interact with some locals to get an idea ….. “idea jo duniya bada de” ,,,, he he he.

Much was known about the  history of Pachmarhi owing to  the interactions we had with the gentleman at the grocery shop. Pachmarhi was discovered by Caption  James Forsyth in the year 1862 as a military sanitarium  where medical facilities were set up. Later this town at an altitude of 3550 feet above the sea level became the summer capital of the Central Province during the British Raj period. There is a famous hill peak point known as Forsyth point giving an  exemplary view of the mountain valley.This point was later renamed as “Priyadarshini point” after the name of our late Prime Minister Indira Gandhi.

While wandering for some time it was this kind-hearted gentlemen owning  a grocery shop  noticed us carrying the backpacks with a bewildered look on our face .. He called us  upon and suggested to us something which became the mantra for us to traverse and explore the spectacle of this hill resort. The gentleman …, i am sorry i forgot his name ,though i wanted to account him in this narrative ,suggested  we  trek by foot through the town seeing the sign boards and the directions set out by the MP Tourism Dept.

Given below is the description of the trek which we had on the first day ,included a Rock Cave , picturesque  waterfalls and streams coupled with prehistoric rock art

1st Trek (6th October 2011)  —-> Pandav Caves—-> Rajat Prapat—-> Apsara Falls—-> Panchali Kund—-> Rock Paintings.

We started walking carrying our backpacks to our first destination .. towards Pandav Caves .

Streets of Pachmarhi with signboards

While walking through the city , which is mainly an Army Cantonment area housing many servicemen, we happened to see a church names “Protestant Church” it was bolted and locked with some buffaloes grazing in the area enclosed within the walls of the church. Probably the church only opened on Sundays for public prayers,sermons and religious meetings.

Protestant Church built in the year 1875

 This magnificent structure reminds one of the British annexation of this region and making it a summer hill resort.By looking at the church  its medieval architecture and   grandeur can easily be apprehended.

A few minutes walk ahead lead us towards the Pachmarhi lake towards the south surrounded by the Golf Course with local habitation around its pockets.

Pachmarhi Jheel (Lake)

Few kilometers ahead following the directions we reached Pandav Caves  around 8.30 am in the morning. There are five caves carved out of hillock and a vast garden housed in a single complex. Pachmarhi derived its name after these five caves historically known to be built by the Buddhist missionaries.Factually these caves date back the Gupta period of ancient India. But in populist view it is widely accepted that the Pandavas took refuge here in the 13th year of their exile incognito.

Sun-bathed Pandav Caves (Frontal View)

Me sitting on a rock at Pandav Caves

On the top of the cave one can find brick structures which might be a Buddhist Stupa.

Pandav Cave (Top)

There were also some paintings in these caves but were hardly visibly washed away by the passage of centuries.

Our next destination was Rajat Prapat or Silver Fall which was slated to be the next point in our escapade.

We started walking towards Rajat prapat from the Pandav Caves site.We came near the forest entry from where everybody has to stroll down the jungle with prohibition on vehicle entry thereon.

Towards Rajat Prapat

Lonely Road towards Rajat Prapat

Stranded ……..

We were sitting at the forest entry to sip a cup of tea and this tribal man named Shanoo came towards us saying “guide chahiye kya saab,  neeche raasta kharab hai“

Waiting at the Forest Entry at a small dhaba nested within the hills.This place is very deserted and only inundated by tourist inflow .

He decided to wait until we consume our snacks  .I was initially apprehensive because he was not even carrying his pass or Identity card . We ordered some maggie and pakoras at this local dhaba ,waiting, we were hearing from the owner of the dhaba ,a young boy barely in his mid twenties ,saying “aage paani nahin milega,paani le lo” i.e.., purchase water from here as you will not get it during the trek towards the waterfalls which emerges after a long jungle walk. Hearing this we got our supplies correct by placing an additional bottle in my pouch. Many tourists shunned him saying “hum jharne ka paani pe lenge” thus sharing such jocular pleasantries.  Till then we both reconciled to take Shanoo along to avert any more complications during the passage in the jungle.

Shanoo giving a presentation on Sal Tree

Pachmarhi is covered with Sal trees with a thick vegetation down the gorges and along the meadows. Shanoo talked a lot about the Sal trees and its utility . Sal is very useful in the treatment of many chronic diseases. He was talking about the vegetation and culture of Pachmarhi dating back to the times when Gond Aadivasi ruled this place till the advent of the British.

It was a  thick jungle  , realising it was a wise decision to take a guide along.Moving forward in less than a kilometer from this signboard was the mighty Rajat Prapat view.This is truly a nature’s marvel dripping down from a height of 350 feet from the cliff. The fall is not a stream but a horsetail waterfall with a single drop flowing from the above. Excitedly, i was rushing towards the fences   to catch its ambient sound scape created by  water which kept gushing downwards.  The waterfall is known as Rajat Prapat or Silver Falls because the sunshine on the stream makes it look like a silver strip from a distance.The same can be viewed from the picture posted below. Rajat is the hindi name for silver.

The Mighty Rajat Prapat or Silver Falls

Next we moved towards Apsara Vihar or Apsara falls which is a kilometer away from Silver Falls. It is said that during the British dominion the white females used to take bath in the pool area of the fall .The white complexion of these females made the  tribals believe them to be angels coming from heaven to take bath. One trivia –  - – - –  Kareena Kapoor and Sharukh Khan once shot their song “San San Sana na” from the movie “Ashoka” in Apsara Falls as per the account given by Shanoo.

Apsara Falls and its pond area

Apsara Vihar

Adjacent to the Apsara Falls is the “Panchali Kund” a cascading waterfall with 5 big rocks over which the water is descending downwards.

Panchali Kund

The serene ambiance of the landscape  is such that one can attain instant solitude . I was leaning over every cavity of the fall and the water body to get a glimpse of any scenic image. The tourists started to move towards the forest entry while  we thought of an adventurous escapade through the thick woods  of the dense forests to catch “Rock Paintings” which date back many centuries … probably pre historic times. Disagreeably we gave our consent to Shanoo who was supposedly very excited to show us the ancient relic which is well placed in the womb of the forest.

We started to move  with herds of tourists getting  sparse until it disappeared completely.

Moving in the woods where no one ventures .On the way towards Rock Paintings

We came across a dead snake-skin apparently of a big venomous serpent  … and to my surprise i was able to locate  a Bison’s skull  lying away from the “pagdandi“(walking path) . The forest has a wide range of wild life including a both herbivores and carnivores like deer,black buck,Bengal Tiger,Leopard ,Wild Dogs (known as Son Kutte in vernacular language) ,Wild Boar,Bison etc…..

Climbing up as Roack Paintings are seen above

We were expecting  wild intervention any time in the course of our movement into the deep gorge. It was a topsy-turvy ride with points where we were clinging to branches of the trees growing over the cliffs . With two halts in the midway and a  profuse precipitation we were approaching the rock paintings . The rock paintings of this region belong to pre historic periods. The ancient paintings clearly depict a society of hunters and gatherers. Mainly they portray man and his relationship with animals. The region was occupied by the Korku and Gond tribes who perform various customary rituals in front of these rock-cut monuments to please their ancestors by giving animal sacrifices and offerings. Also to avert any unforeseen misery or danger these customs were performed. These rock paintings clearly depict the rudiments of an art which would eventually flourish into a discipline in the near future,less was known by our pre historic caveman while creating this raw form of story telling.

Shanoo took a stick in his hand and was pointing towards the pictures trying to tell the significance of this art. He was  looking like a chieftain of a tribe  standing on the altar to give some offerings to their gods.

We rested there for a while to move again towards the woods .Shanoo had an alternative path walking through the dense jungle to reach the Forest Entry gate . Shanoo arranged for our  conveyance and we reached the town within 20 minutes.

Rock Paintings with Shanoo standing with his stick like a chieftain of a tribe .

Hotel Satpura Safari,Pachmarhi

Tired with fatigued we booked a room in the  hotel “Satpura Safari”.

We rested there in our room for a while then ventured out in the town at the time of evening.

It was Vijay Dashmi that day and the whole city was buzzing with the festive season.

Procession celebrating Dusherra Festival,Pachmarhi

We set out in the streets where we could see processions moving with Goddess Durga’s idols singing and dancing over the streets.People getting involved in the customary ritual of  burning the effigy of Ravana as an emblem of victory of Truth over Evil .

Girls dressed up  as  Goddess  Durga ,Pachmarhi,   MP

It was a treat to see the energy of the locals and their amicable behavior towards the tourists. With such a big procession moving through the city no signs of derangement was visible. It was quite conspicuous that people had devotion and festivity in their minds unlike what we see in big cities.

Little pretty girls dressed up like Goddess Durga , in their charismatic aura , posing for pictures ,calling each other by names of the goddesses ,with sheer innocence . This girl in the red dress proclaimed that she is goddess Sita. She truly is, i believe.

Jadi Buti Bhandaar

We ventured out in the market to find a 30 kilogram onion used for medicinal purpose of healing certain ailments— couldn’t believe my eyes but we happened to see it at an Ayurvedic shop.

It was 10.30 pm till then so, we moved to our hotel room ,fatigued with day one of  the excursion.

The owner of the shop carrying the 30 kilogram onion

Day 2 of the Trek – - -> Jata Shankar —>Begum Palace—-> Handi Khoh —> Priyadarshini Point —> Gupt Mahadev —-> Bada Mahadev —-> Pachmarhi

The next day we woke up early in the morning,finished the daily routine chores and then checked out of the hotel. The points in this trek mostly included temple caves and shrines. I was greatly exhilarated because i will be surrounded by mysticism and divinity of Mahadev Shiva for the whole day. Mahadev is a great source of inspiration ,he is a yogi and a warrior bestowed with great powers.

Stairways going downwards towards the Jata Shankar Cave

Jatashankar  is a cave temple.One has go deep into the ravine about 200-400 meters with the help of  narrow stairways laid down supported by enormous rocks on both sides.These are sedimentary rocks mainly sandstone thus having loose gravel.In simpler words if one throws a sandstone it breaks.

It is said that Lord Shiva ,after seeing the intense penance of Demon Bhasmasura ,granted him a boon of burning down anybody whose head he touches.

JataShankar Cave

Going downwards a cave appears where Lord Shiva has foregone his long  (hair),called “jata” in hindi to get a disguise  so that Demon Bhasmasura who, in his false vanity thought of putting down Lord Shiva to ashes by touching his head, would not find him hiding here.

The entrance of the cave with Sheshnag snake-like rock structure

The entrance of the cave and overhead appears like a snake etched above ,many say it is depiction of “Sheshnaga”, a large snake which is also considered as a deity by the Hindus.

There is a natural Shiv Linga inside the cave .

Trident (Trishul) implanted by the devotees

The Linga is natural stalagmite stone which normally appears in limestone caves …In simpler words it happens at places submerged in water at some point of time and emerges out as soon as the water starts to  recede. The whole cave gets submerged during heaving monsoon periods in the month of  July and August every year.

Next we moved towards Begum Palace which is on the road connecting Piparia before entering Pachmarhi. Not much was known of this palace but i assume that Hoshangabad was once under the rule of Sultans of Malwa and Begum Palace must date back to their ages. It was an old palace almost rusted in time,broken and wailing in its ruins.

Interiors of Begum Palace

Begum Palace Ruins

Next our taxi walla took us to Handi Khoh ,a 300 feet gorge ,which looks most impressive when one hears the sound of

Handi Khoh in its 300 feet gorge glory

water flowing downwards ,although i was unable to see any stream of water below. The point gives some breathtaking scenery standing as a testimony to the ethereal beauty of Pachmarhi. We stayed here for almost 20 minutes bending down the fence,trying to measure its depth with insatiable curiosity.

Next was Priyadarshini Point some kilometers away from Handi Khoh.

Priyadarshini Point ….. valley and hills around

James Forsyth had his first glance of Pachmarhi from this point thus making the point named Forsyth Point until it was renamed as Priyadarshini point after the name of Late Mrs. Indira Gandhi after her visit in the year 1964.

Priyadarshini Point

It was already 2.00 pm and we had to rush towards our next point safely placed within the Mahadeo Hills – - the other two Mahadev shrines (Gupt Mahadev and Bada Mahadev) . I was thinking about the relevance of Lord Shiva in almost so many places of the country majorly in the mountainous terrain ,where one can encounter various ancient shrines and caves dedicated to Shiva …Mahadev.

The road leading towards the Mahadev shrine and caves had more spiral curves and altitude towering its scales .

Spirals overlooking the hills .... on the way towards Mahadev Temple

Road leading to Mahadev Caves and shrine with a milestone showing the distance remaining.

It is almost 10-12 km from main Pachmarhi Town ,gets barely inaccessible without a vehicle.

We reach Gupt Mahadev temple another hiding place for Lord Shiva from the demon Bhasmasura .

Gupt Mahadev Temple

It is a narrow cave ,sitting inside is a priest who performs the religious puja for the devotees. I saw one devotee coming out of the cave panting and gasping for air. We didn’t venture inside the cave as there were many people lined up in a queue.

Me standing near Gupt Mahadev

Let me elaborate about the natural beauty of the area surrounding these caves which was so  enigmatic to the extent that i can write a whole book on it…….. ha ha again a metaphor –..

A little stream of water, a rivulet was flowing ,seemingly estranged trying to find a way to meet with its alma mater —- Denwa River

A rivulet flowing beside the Mahadev Shrines

A tribal lady selling eatables near Mahadev

Tribal’s were sighted selling ber … or bore as we call in hindi ,salted cucumber and other eatables at …  oh my

god!!!!!!! in dirt cheap rates … This is a picture of a very hospitable tribal woman . I clicked her picture and started to move . She beckoned me from back saying “photo le liya to kuch kharid ke bhi jao” I tried to move forward unashamedly but later thought unwise to pass off like this — moved towards here and bought  handful of ber salted with masala for only Rs.5/- . It was such a generous pack that we were unable to eat the whole packet owing to its abundance.

Signboard showing the directions

The Bada Mahadev shrine is at a walking distance from the Gupt Mahadev. We along with all other revelers started to walk towards the Bada Mahadev Shrine which is housed inside a big cave. The cave is so dark and water drips inside the cave making it very dark and moist. It is believed that Lord Vishnu killed Demon Bhasmashura by tricking him looking like a beautiful women  by attaining his Mohini Avatar here .

Bada Mahadev Cave

Near Bada Mahadev

After visiting the shrine we sat relaxing ,discussing about the grandeur and majesty of this massive rock-cut caves ,at local dhaba sipping a cup of coffee.Look at this guy getting samosa for us.I exchanged words with the locals trying to get their version of the story about the cave. It was almost 4.30 pm and we decided to move towards the parking to get  into our taxi .

I was thinking about Dhoopgarh which was missing from my schedule owing to the fact that we had to catch the train back to Delhi the same evening. I kept Dhoopgarh as a reason for my subsequent visit to Pachmarhi which will surely happen one day. Dhoopgarh is the highest point in the Satpura Hills scaling an altitude of 4000 feet above the sea level. It gives a panoramic view of all of the  Mahadeo Hills. It is a very good sunset and sunrise point .

Not my click …….. i regard  the original uploader …. 

Though i have not visited the point but for the readers i would like to share a picture of Dhoopgarh.

Dhoopgarh ,gigantic in stature stands tall acting as a vantage point for viewing all the peaks,cliffs and hills surrounding Pachmarhi till some parts of Chinddwara.

Returning back to Pachmarhi we were unable to stop at  multiple spots to click pictures ,reason being irresistible sightings ……… with abundance of natural spectacles.

Returning to Pachmarhi from Mahadev

Green Valley

Another point was known as Green Valley where one can view a lush green valley with a large expanse of thick vegetation of Sal and Bamboo forest.

While returning traversing from the same path ….. I was thinking of inventing a time machine. Pachmarhi is in itself a great subterfuge skillfully nested within the Satpura Ranges.

It was evening and the sun was seen swallowed by the horizon, inviting  dusk aboard to  spell darkness putting the whole valley to sleep.

Returning back to the concrete jungle was seemingly tough for me …. I was going through a “chemical locha”  fondly remembering Billy Ocean’s  song “When the going get’s tough,The tough get’s the going“.

Reaching Piparia by 7.30 pm …………….. reaching Delhi the next day in the morning.

Hope this narrative acts as a utility to all the revelers ,backpackers, wanderers and nature lovers. This narrative is dedicated to all the knight errant like us.

Looking forward for your feedback ….. till then happy reading .

Piparia Station 7th October 2011

JAI  SHIV SHANKAR