No season is an off-season in Auli

Pic Courtesy: -Nanda Devi desde Gorsa. Image Courtesy: Sunil Kainthola

Auli maybe synonymous with skiing, no snow doesn`t mean no fun, discovers Pooja Bhula, on her visit at the cusp of Monsoon and Autumn this year.

Spring and Summer
As spring turns to summer (March to June), the snow melts, and alpine flowers, medicinal herbs and delicious fruits come to life. It is not only a treat to watch the sunrise and sunset that paint the mountains red, orange and yellow, but the deep blue evening skies with twinkling stars and mountains that turn silver in the light of the moon are a visual delight. You may often hear locals saying, “Nanda Devi is cooking”, when the summer afternoon heat causes the melted ice on the mountain peaks to rapidly evaporate into mist. Summer is the only time when Khapal (an endemic wild berry), grows here. Now a scarce commodity, the much cherished fruit around which several songs and folklore are written, can`t be found in markets, but villagers will generously share it with you on request.

Pic courtesy: Trekking. Image Courtesy:Mithi Mishra & Rohit Chandra

Hiking, Trekking, Camping
R. R. Point - Only a kilometer away, it is the easiest and shortest trek available, generally done by beginners to acclimatise themselves before venturing to higher altitudes.

Gorson Peak Spanning over 4-5 km, the route to the peak takes you through varying landscapes of lush meadows and grazing fields for cows and horses with golden-brown coats. You enter a thick forest, and out of nowhere, red and orange flags flutter marking the presence of a local temple. Now, the trees begin to change with colourful creepers spiralling around their barks. Closer to the peak, meadows reappear, but this time with carpets of wild yellow flowers and a natural watering hole frequented by animals. Climbing to the top, you can see settlements of villagers; some hotels in Auli also arrange camps here, as an activity for families.

Tali Although usually covered as part of Curzon`s Trail, which starts from Loharjung and ends at Tapovan, Tali offers good views of Dronagiri and Kuari Pass. For those who don`t have many days to spare for longer treks and yet want to indulge in some rigourous activity, trekking to Tali can be an exhilarating experience.

Kuari Pass An ancient trade route to Tibet, this 22km trail is a charismatic combination of picturesque beauty and local culture. You need a minimum of 3 days and 2 nights, to travel through the quaint villages and interact with shepherds who`ll probably tell you stories of days-gone-by, when goat-led caravans carried Indian trades. Although Kuari Pass is not very high by Himalayan standards, surrounded by the towering Nanda Devi, Chaukhamba, Hathi-Ghodi, Kamet and Dronagiri, it is an amazing vantage point of the Himalayas.

Trailing with the shepherds and visting their villages Most shepherds belong to to the Bhotiya tribe, who live near Tibet who generally have a summer and winter house. During the summer, they bring their cattle to graze, up at Auli`s bugyals (meadows) and towards the end of the monsoons they descend to the lower regions. Trekking with them on their traditional routes (request locals to help you arrange it or hotels like Devi Darshan Lodge that organise it for their guests), or visiting Lata (39 kms from Auli), their summer village, is an interesting experience. It was a major centre of import and exports between India and China, until relations strained. Besides, traditional houses, you can shop for handicrafts and worship at the ninth century temple of Nanda Devi, the most important deity for people of Garhwal.
Temple on the way to Gorson. Image Courtesy: Pooja Bhula

Bird Watching
With the arrival of April and May, birds start exploring the higher regions, previously laden with snow. Above Auli, one can spot the Himalayan Monal and little below towards Sunil village (just a walking distance away) there`s a dense forest line where you can see doves, golden eagles, mountain hawk eagles, spotted nut crackers, sun birds, bablars, tits, magpies, black headed jays, wood peckers and Himalayan vultures.

Image Courtesy: Pooja Bhula

Monsoon
If you're in a mood to sit back and relax, Auli is best between the end of June and beginning of October, when the rain Gods shower their blessings. The snow which begins settling on mountain peaks is a glittering contrast to the flourescent green surroundings you. The picture outside your window will look different not only everyday, but also at different times during the day, as the clouds decide to hide, reveal and tease.

Head to the nearby town of Joshimath to pluck ripe apples from orchards (only possible in August and September), or if you've set your mind action and exploration, then it's the ideal time for a trek to the much coveted Valley of Flowers which is not far. It is the only time to see certain types of flowers typical of the region and enjoy whiffs of petrichor lent by the Himalayan moss. The woody, moist and dark feel created by the moss is a good base for the growth of orchids, creepers and ivy. In this period, the blossoming flowers also attract migratory birds from within and outside the country.

Skiing- Image Courtesy: Kiran Chaturvedi

Autumn and Winter
Although autumn announces itself by end of October or November, and winter in December, thick layers of snow accumulate only by January. Harvested in Autumn, black finger millet, locally called mandua, is used to prepare rotis that are rich in protein and give the body the much needed heat in the cold months. Brown and white are the colours of winter, it's the time to roll in ice, make your snow man, throw snowballs at each other and obviously go skiing! You can carry your own skiing equipment or rent it from your hotel with an accompanying guide. It may not be anything fancy, but you will definitely have fun. Courses are also offered ranging from four to ten days. During winters, the Badrinath idol (of Badrinath Temple, one of the four important pilgrimages of Hindus) is shifted to a temple in Joshimath, just a few kilometers away.




Where to go for local food?
There are only four ways to do it, request the locals or a nearby dhaba (one of them belongs to Mr. Bhandari), find out whether your hotel can arrange an authentic garhwali meal for you. If not, request Mr. Bisht of GMVN's Skiing Resort or Mr. Sunil of Devi Darshan Lodge, a philosopher by education and hotel owner by profession, and place an order in advance. A very eager host is Kiran Chaturvedi of Birdsong and Beyond, near Karnaprayag, quite a distance from Auli, but could come on your way to or from this place of eternal pleasure...................SEND BY..............ZEE NEWS

POSTED BY .......................VIPUL KOUL

by M. L. Kotru

HUMAN RIGHTS IN JAMMU AND KASHMIR

Pakistan's unrelenting offensive against India has been conducted on two fronts ... sponsoring terrorism in India and conducting a worldwide propaganda campaign. In the context of Jammu and Kashmir, the propaganda disseminated by Pakistan has concentrated on alleged violations of the Human Rights of the Kashmiris by the Indian Government and its security forces. The first and foremost Human Right is the right to life, And it is the bounden duty of any State to take necessary action to safeguard the life, property and dignity of its people. In the context of Kashmir it is essential to examine who is responsible for the creation of an environment where human rights can be violated. After all the Indian security forces have been present in the State of Jammu and Kashmir since 1947 and never was any hint of any human rights violations of the people voiced. On the contrary the presence of the Indian security forces state has been a source of assurance to the people of a state that has been subjected to repeated aggression by Pakistan. The people of Jammu and Kashmir, including those of the Valley refused to be duped by Pakistan's blandishments in the three wars with Pakistan- eloquent testimony to the people's faith in the Indian security forces and the Indian polity.
What then is the new element that has been introduced that has triggered off the whole debate on the question of Human Rights in Jammu and Kashmir? The answer has been given by International Human Rights organizations such as Amnesty International and Asia Watch who have had to acknowledge the pervasive presence of terrorism in the Valley and have documented the depredations of the terrorists.
The Vienna Declaration passed at the end of the World Human Rights Conference in 1993, the resolution adopted by the Third Committee of the UN General Assembly also in 1993, the Resolution 1993/48 adopted by the Commission on Human Rights, all stress the need for the international community to combat terrorism and condemn terrorist activities as a gross violation of Human Rights.
The real question that needs addressing is the continuous assault on democratic institutions perpetrated by the armed terrorists in Jammu and Kashmir acting at the behest of Pakistan.

Terrorists in training. In his book "Future of political violence" General Richard Clutterbuck states ".. The ultimate civil right, however, is the right to live. A violent minority, whatever its politics, has no right to kill, and no claim to such a right must ever be allowed to override the right of the majority to live in peace.. ". It is precisely this right that the a violent minority has arrogated to itself in the State of Jammu and Kashmir.
The pillars of a free democratic society are the judiciary, the press and free political activity.

Terrorists in training. The Indian press has been lauded internationally for its freedom. Freedom of expression is a norm in Indian society, jealously guarded by the representatives of the Fourth estate. In fact Amnesty itself has acknowledged that a great deal of its information has been culled from the Indian media. But muzzling and manipulating the press has been a regular practice followed by the terrorists in the Valley. Prominent media personalities have been killed. Details of the repression of the media by the terrorists are given in a separate chapter.
An independent judiciary has been one of the hallmarks of Indian democracy. It has been a champion of Human Rights. At the height of the forcible armed occupation of the Hazratbal Shrine by armed militants in late 1993, it was the Indian Supreme Court that ordered the Government to provide sustenance to the people inside the shrine. The independence of the Indian judiciary has been lauded world wide ... and it is the representatives of this institution who have been targeted by the terrorists.
There has been targeted killing of political leaders and workers, including former legislators of the State. Three top political leaders, Maulvi Mohd. Farooq, Chairman of the Awami Action Committee, (May 21, 1990), Abdul Jabbar, a former Minister (April 18, 1990) and Maulana Masoodi, State level National Conference leader (December 1990) were gunned down by terrorists. Many former legislators of the Congress and the National Conference have fallen victims to militants' bullets. Prominent citizens and opinion makers have been selectively eliminated to prevent any scope for dissent against the activities of the terrorists.
The minority community of Hindus has been selectively targeted leading to an exodus from the Valley.

Refugee camp for Kashmiri Pandits in Jammu. Countless civilians, including Muslims, have been raped tortured and killed for being " informers" or for refusing to join the ranks of the militants or to assist them. The oppression of civilians by the terrorists has heightened as disenchantment with the latter's activities has increased.
A sustained effort has been made by the terrorists to change the very tolerant character of Islam practiced for centuries in the Valley. The Islam being introduced by the terrorists throws acid on women who do not wear the "burqa", an all encompassing robe. 400 schools have been destroyed and education disrupted so that children are "freed" from the mainstream and turned into rabid fundamentalists, particularly by the pro-Pakistan groups like the Hezb-ul-Mujaheddin.

Foreign mercenaries in Kashmir. As disenchantment with militancy grows in the Valley and on occasion the people of the Valley have voiced their opposition to acts of terrorism, Pakistan has begun to send in armed foreign mercenaries to re-inforce the "Jehad".
Humanitarian institutions such as hospitals in the Valley have been subjected to intimidation with doctors being threatened; hospital premises being used to hide weapons; doctors and nurses being kidnapped and killed in order to compel obedience to the terrorists' diktats. The situation has forced many reputable medical practitioners to leave the Valley and to seek employment elsewhere.
SUBVERSION OF DEMOCRACY
An assessment of the Human Rights situation in the State of Jammu and Kashmir must take the involvement of Pakistan in providing sanctuary, arms and training and finance to terrorists to operate in Indian territory as its starting point since, having created a situation of armed terrorism and subversion of the democratic polity, Pakistan now seeks to exploit the resulting situation by raising the bogey of Human Rights.
Lord Howe speaking in the British House of Lords on the question of human rights observed "... the important question of human rights ... is an inevitable and legitimate question for societies such as our own that are struggling with the uneven balance between, on the one hand, the forces and agencies of Government charged with the uncomfortable duty of upholding the rule of law- all of whose decisions are open to challenge, open to appeal, open to debate . . . and on the other hand terrorists who are subject to no such constraints; they act as self appointed prosecutors, self appointed judges, self appointed jury and self appointed executioners.."
Democracy, with its concomitant principles of freedom of expression and faith is the surest protector of human rights. Dwelling on human rights, when the very institutions which can guarantee human rights are the target of terrorism spawned and supported from across a State's borders, is self destructive. It diverts attention from what should be the primary focus - the preservation of the human rights of all citizens, not only a gun wielding minority.
The Government of India is extremely conscious of the need to protect the human rights of all its citizens.
When India became free in August 1947 it gave itself a representative Government, chosen on the basis of adult suffrage. Its Constitution drew inspiration from the French and American Constitutions while retaining the best of British Conventions which ensure the rights to Freedom and Liberty. It inherited a judicial system from the British, which is based on natural justice and the principles of jurisprudence.
India, has been in the forefront of the struggle against colonialism and apartheid. It is a signatory to the Universal Declaration on Human Rights, and has acceded to the two International Covenants on Civil and Political Rights and on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights in 1979. In fact the Indian constitution guarantees almost the entire gamut of Civil and Political Rights, and the Directive Principles of State Policy, which form a part of the Constitution, require the Government to promote social and economic rights.
Strange then that India should come under criticism for alleged violations of Human Rights.
No one disputes the fact that at times, faced with the violence perpetrated by the terrorists, some violations have been caused by the security forces also. The question arises have the excesses been condoned? What are the safety valves? The institutions of democracy - the legislature, the judiciary and the press - have played a vital role, in putting a break on the executive and ensuring the Human Rights are not violated with impunity. The Parliament of India and the State Legislatures keep the Executive under close scrutiny. India has an independent Judiciary and a free Press. Alleged excesses have been exposed in the Press, and taken up by the Legislatures and in some cases followed up suo-moto by the Judiciary. In the recent past, the country has also seen the emergence of many non-Government organizations, which have taken up the cause of Human Rights. And more importantly a National Human Right Commission was set up recently.
The Indian Security Forces have had to fight the terrorists, particularly in Jammu and Kashmir, under very difficult conditions with grave danger to their lives. Whenever they are under pressure, the terrorists resort to a deliberate disinformation campaign making all types of wild allegations against the Security Forces, to demoralize them and deflect the thrust of their operations.
One of the allegations leveled against India is that the Armed Forces (Special Powers) Act and the Terrorists and Disruptive Activities (Prevention) Act confers immunity on the Security Forces for "anything done or purported to be done" under the Act. Such conclusions are grossly irrational. The special powers conferred on the members of the Armed Forces do not keep them out of the purview of the law of the land. They are accountable for their actions.
All allegations against the security forces are investigated fully and pursued vigorously. Most of the allegations made against the Security Forces have been found to be inaccurate, highly exaggerated and fallacious. Punitive action has been taken whenever proved to be true. Despite the fact that over 700 security force personnel have lost their lives in encounters, grenade attacks and mine explosions, action has been taken against 174 personnel of the Security Forces. The punishment ranged from imprisonment upto 10 years, dismissal from service, suspension and forfeiture of seniority.
Because of orchestrated propaganda, an impression has gained currency that the Government of India is not seriously concerned about the violation of Human Rights. This is not true, and the impression needs to be dispelled. A National Human Rights Commission was established through an ordinance, and later confirmed by an Act of Parliament in 1993. The Human Rights Bill provides for the setting up of Human Rights Commission at State levels too.
The National Human Rights Commission has come into being with a former Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of India as its Chairman. The Commission has also taken cognizance of the recent events in the Valley, and has invited information about the violent incidents in such sensitive spots like Bijbehara.
Allegations of Human Rights violations have been leveled against India by Pakistan to gain international support in its proxy war against India. The method followed is simple. Whenever they are under pressure, the terrorists in Jammu & Kashmir resort to a deliberate disinformation campaign, making all types of wild allegations against the Security Forces. Besides the threats of killing, extortion and kidnapping, the terrorists often browbeat the ordinary citizens, into making bizarre allegations. Based on the stories inspired by the terrorists and also on a few occasions when Security Forces may have overstepped their limits many Human Rights organizations have published exaggerated reports of alleged excesses. The reports published in the local Press in the Valley under threat of militants are fed to agencies across the border who use it in their anti-India campaign. They are also used by international Human Rights organizations.
In Kashmir alone action has been taken against 174 officers and men of the Security Forces. They include imprisonment upto 10 years for 67 members of the Security Forces, (ii) dismissals, removal from service, or compulsory retirement for 16 personnel (iii) reduction in rank or loss of seniority for 7, (iv) other departmental penalties for 44 personnel and (v) suspensions and arrests pending enquiry for 36 personnel.
But while the institutions of Indian democracy make the government apparatus answerable for human rights violations, is there any similar mechanism for controlling the terrorists? Debating the human rights issue without answering this pertinent question will remain a futile exercise devoid of any relevance to the conditions in Jammu and Kashmir.

PAKISTAN'S SUPPORT TO TERRORISM

by M. L. Kotru

PAKISTAN'S SUPPORT TO TERRORISM

For the last about five years, Pakistan has been waging a low intensity proxy war in Jammu and Kashmir. Backed by official support from Pakistan there has been a well-organized and consistent Pakistani plan to subvert the authority of the Jammu and Kashmir Government, create chaos inspire terrorism, fan the flames of disruption and secessionism, subvert the loyalties of the people, kill and and kidnap, organize murders and mayhem, whip up communal passions, raise the cry of "jehad" and open the floodgates of Islamic fundamentalism with international linkages. A number of "Jehad Conferences", rallies and demonstrations have been held in Pakistan and Pakistan-occupied Kashmir to express solidarity with the Kashmir terrorists.
Terrorists leader with bodyguards. The plans are hatched in Pakistan and executed through Pakistani agents provocateur and such Kashmiri young men who have been lured, bribed, trapped or coerced, motivated or misguided into becoming militants. Pakistan Army Rangers and the Pakistan Inter-Services Intelligence (ISI) with its field units have been conducting and directing the programs of subversion. Pakistan has been training and arming the militants, providing funds, affording refuge and safe havens to the militants, as also setting up rapid communication systems. Backing the militants is a well orchestrated multi-media propaganda campaign with twin objectives: beamed to the militants in the Kashmir Valley the purpose is to stoke the fires of militancy and keep secessionism alive; in the international arena the intention is to damage the image of India.

Well armed terrorists in Kashmir. Kashmiri youth are taken surreptitiously across the line of control to Pakistan occupied Kashmir and to Pakistan. There they are trained for subversion, equipped with weapons as also indoctrinated. Thereafter, they are infiltrated back into Jammu and Kashmir. The Pakistan Army often provides covering fire for such infiltrators across the line of control.
Before the newly-recruited militants are sent to POK or Pakistan they are given code names to conceal their identity or they are provided with fake identity cards to cover them up as government employees. They are usually picked up in small batches from predetermined places and escorted to the line of control on foot and thereon to some transit camps.

Terrorists at a hide-out in Kashmir. In the transit Camps, motivational films are screened, copies of the Holy Quran are distributed and religious and fanatical songs with anti-India strains are sung. From the transit camps the recruits are moved to the training centers. Usually they are taken blindfolded or in fully covered trucks to make sure that they can neither identify the training sites nor the roads leading to them.
Motivation is an essential part of the training. Firebrand ulemas acting as coordinators and Mujahideen leaders are invited to speak to the recruits exhorting them to jehad. On the conclusion of the training the militants are returned to the transit camps. Once again they travel blindfolded or in covered trucks. Each trainee is given assorted weapons at the staging areas. Finally they are taken back to the line of control. The Pakistan ISI guides help the militants in finding their way through forests and mountain passes through which runs the line of control from where they can be collected later.
TRAINING CAMPS
Nevertheless it is always hazardous crossing the line of control. The militants are apprehended by the Indian security forces. A number of them have been killed while crossing the line. Some of those apprehended make confessions or provide revealing information under interrogation. But still many sneak across the undulating thickly-forested terrain. To train and indoctrinate the militants Pakistan has set up training centers located in (rebel-held) Afghanistan close to the Pak-Afghan border. Over 105 such training camps - 48 in Pakistan, 49 in POK and eight on the Pak- Afghan border - have come to the notice of Indian authorities. Pakistan has been running more than 50 transit camps either in Pakistan itself or in POK to hold the trainees before they are dispersed to various training centers.
Training is imparted by Pakistani instructors or by those of the Kashmiri militants who have graduated after intensive training. The training covers subjects like subversion and sabotage use of explosives, techniques of destroying vital installations like railway lines, bridges, oil tankers, power houses etc. To toughen the militants and give them "battle inoculation", some trainees are sent to the Pak-Afghanistan border under the banner of Harkat-e- Mujahideen where they are made to fight in simulated battle conditions. Some of the selected militants are primed for a longer period and are intended to attain greater competence in the methods of guerrilla warfare, laying of land mines, handling of remote control devices with special emphasis on extensive use of improvised explosive devises and wireless communication. Operating sensitive high-frequency wireless communication sets is another item of specialized training.
The pattern of arms training has been changing. Earlier the elementary training for seven to ten days included introduction to AK-47 rifles, Chinese pistols, rocket launchers use of light machine guns and explosives. Techniques of ambushing concealment reconnaissance and intelligence gathering were also covered. Included in this program was indoctrination for armed struggle. This was achieved through lectures and video films.
Training at the centers is now handled entirely by the Pakistan Army and the ISI. Multiple training programs, dovetailing basic arms training with long duration specialized schedules, have been organized. There are extended training courses of two to twelve weeks incorporating the use of sophisticated heavy weapons including rocket launchers, MMG/LMG/AK-47/56/74, sniper rifles, mortars, remote control devices anti-personnel and anti-tank mines. The operation and control of high explosives, anti-aircraft guns, heavy machine guns, etc., are also included in the schedule. Courses in rock climbing mountaineering survival in jungles as also mock exercises for border crossing including first aid and paramedical training are conducted. Video cassette films on commando operations are screened at the training centers. Simultaneously, the Pakistani army has been imparting wireless communication training (Morse and computer-based data mode) for four to twelve weeks to ensure that trained staff is available to maintain direct links between the Kashmir militants and the Pakistan authorities.
ARMS SUPPLY: PROGRESSIVE INCREASE
Recently, the training schedule was further streamlined and extended for selected groups from six months to a year. Selected young militants are taken to Pakistan Army camps along the line of control where they are trained for over six months through intensive firing exercises. In some makeshift training camps inside Pakistan stress is laid on the practical handling of explosive devices. Emphasis is now laid on achieving tough physical standards and the development of leadership qualities. Educated militant youth, preferably with scientific and technical background are imparted specialized and prolonged training. The use of new weapons including SVD Dragnov sniper rifles, 12.7 mm heavy machine guns and 82 mm mortars is taught.

Arms Bazaar in Pakistan. Pakistani-supplied arms and weapons seized every now and then on the border and the line of control as also obtained from the hideouts of militants provide tangible evidence of the Pakistan hand. The seizure of weapons recorded year after year shows a progressive increase in their supply. These arms are procured partly from Pakistan Army and intelligence establishments; siphoned off from the supplies Pakistan received for the Mujahideen in Afghanistan; and a few from the arms bazaars in the North West Frontier Province.
Pakistan has been training thousands of Kashmiri terrorists, supplying arms and ammunition to them, providing financial assistance as also monetary inducements to the trainees. Couriers and guides have been provided by Pakistan. Necessary support facilities like office accommodation, telephones, wireless communications safe havens have also been made available. This has been confirmed and cross checked with various militants who have been captured by the Indian security forces.
The present situation in Kashmir has been created by Pakistan's support to terrorism. This support to religion-based terrorism is not only an attempt to unilaterally alter the status quo on the ground but also to undermine India's secular fabric. Pakistan's denial of its involvement is not convincing. In 1948 Pakistan denied that it was sending tribals and armed people into Kashmir. The Security Council resolution of August 1948 documented the Pakistan aggression when it stated: "The presence of troops of Pakistan in the territory of the State of Jammu and Kashmir constitutes a material change in the situation since it was represented by the government of Pakistan before the Security Council. Pakistan had then too asserted that disturbances in the valley were the result of an internal uprising.
OVERWHELMING EVIDENCE
In 1965, Pakistan similarly denied that it had sent armed infiltrators. The arson sabotage and killings by the infiltrators were again attributed by Pakistan to internal uprising in Kashmir. It persisted with this charade before the Security Council even though the UN Military Observer Group for India and Pakistan and independent observers documented that massive infiltration of armed personnel had taken place. Subsequently the Pakistani leaders themselves boasted of having sent in the infiltrators. Today Pakistan is once again denying involvement with terrorism. In the face of the overwhelming evidence of overt and covert support, and the history of Pakistan's past deceptions in this regard, there can be no genuine takers for the Pakistani propaganda line.

The Mahakaleswar Jyotir Lingam Temple, Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh

 

The Mahakaleswara Jyotir Lingam

Sri Mahakaleswara

The Mahakaleswara Shiva Lingam is one of the largest of the twelve Jyotir Lingams, being apr. 60cm high, only Sri Somnath is bigger. The Lingam is believed to be Swayambhu (born of itself), deriving its Shakti or power, from within itself. A unique feature of this majestic shrine is that the idol faces the south, a positioning upheld by the Tantric tradition and found only in Mahakaleshwara among the 12 Jyotir Lingams. The main Sanctum Sanctorum remains dark even during the day, therefore two lamps are always burning.

Mahakal = “Grand Time” or “Lord of Time”

It is said that in ancient times, according to the then time zone division, the zero degree longitude passed through Ujjain, which were believed to be the central point of the Aryavata. The time reckoning point was in Ujjain. Hence the establishment of the Mahakal Temple. Maaha Kaala litterally means the “Grand Time” or “Lord of Time”. The theory seems plausible as Ujjain has been and still is a seat of astrology and Indian astronomy having a “Nava Graha”, a “Nine Planet” temple and an observatory.

Legend

There once lived a Brahmin in Avanti, who had four sons, who were great devotees of Lord Shiva. Dushanan, a demon was giving trouble, disturbing all good and religious activities. The Brahmins from all over the land gathered with the four sons and performed Puja to Lord Shiva. The spot where they had taken mud to make the Lingam, became a huge pond. When Dushanan came to disturb their Puja, Lord Shiva rose from this pond as Mahakaleshwara and destroyed Dushanan. On the request of the Brahmins, Lord Shiva gave Darshan to devotees at this Jyotir Lingam Sthalam.

Darshan

Those who visit the Mahakal Temple and take Darshan, will newer be touched by sorrow even in their dreams. Those who pray for whatever they desire to the Mahakal Jyotir Linga will be granted all his/her wishes and attain salvation. By the Darshan an untimely death is avoided. All those who pray to this Linga will never fear death and if their faith is true, they will be out of the Chakra of life and death. It is held that the Linga of this temple gets fresh ash of a fire consigned dead body every day. Chitabhasm (human ash) is considered unholy and inauspicious. If anyone touches it by mistake, one is required to bathe in order to be purified. But the ash becomes holy by merely touching the body of Mahakaleswar, because Shiva is Nishkam or lustless.

 

The Mahakaleswara Temple

Main entrance to the ground, first, second and third floor temple

The Mahakaleswara Temple is situated in Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh, one of the seven most holy cities of the Hindu faith in India. The temple is situated near a lake formed by the river Kshipra. The Mahakaleswara Temple is one of the 18 “Shiva-Shakti Peetahs” in India. Two other Jyotir Lingam temples are Shiva-Shakti Peethas, the others being the Mallikarjuna Temple, Sri Sailam, Andhra Pradesh, and the Vishwanatha Temple in Kasi / Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh. The Mahakaleswar temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva was rebuilt by Marathas in the 18th century. Historically not much is known about the origin of the temple prior to the resurrection by the Scindias of Gwalior. The earlier shrine was demolished or rendered to a dilapidated condition by the Slave Sultan Altamish in 1235AD. The Mahakaleswar temple is built in five stories. The main underground temple houses the idol of the Swayambhu Mahakal Diety where two lights is always lit. The idol of Omkareshwar Shiva is consecrated in the sanctum above the Mahakaleswara shrine and the images of Lord Ganesh, Parvati and Kartikeya are in the west, north and east of the Sanctum Sanctorum. To the south is Shiva's bull, Nandi. Nagchandreshwar is on the upper floor. The Theertam opposite the Mahakaleshwarar temple is known as Koditheertham and it is said that the colour of the waters of this Theertham keeps changing. Every Mahashivratri, in the month of March, pilgrims by the thousands gather at the fair held near the temple.

 

A walk in the temple premises

First sight of the Mahakaleswara Temple seen from the main entrance to the temple compound

The beautiful court yard seen from the main entrance

A serene and holy atmosphere in the temple court yard

Mantapa with stairs to the shrine, which is situated under ground level

 

"Downstairs" Darshan of the Jyotir Lingam

One of the magnificient chandeliers in the Mantapam over the shrine

Nandi guarding the Jyotir lingam

Downstairs under groundlevel, the Nandi bull and the Mahakaleswara shrine

The first Darshan

Pujas are performed from early morning every day

Devotee doing Abisheka and offering prayers

The ceiling in the Sanctum Santorum with inscribtions

Ujjain - “The city of the Gods”

Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh, one of the best known cities of ancient India, is situated on the right bank of the River Kshipra. Ujjain was a prosperous city in ancient India as it was situated on a flourishing trade route to Mesopotamia and Egypt. There is an interesting tale behind the sanctity of the city. Its origin is ascribed to the mythological legend of Sagar Manthan (churning of primordial ocean to discover the pot of nectar). The story goes that after the nectar was discovered, there was a chase between the gods and demons to have the nectar first and thus attain immortality. During this chase a drop of nectar spilled and fell on Ujjain, thus making the city sacred.  Usually there is a temple built in a village, or a village exists for the temple. Sometimes a village or city is full of temples. As one of the seven Moksha Sthalams* or cities of deliverance or salvation, Ujjain has several very holy temples and places: 7 Sagar Teerthas, 28 Theerthas, 84 Siddha Lingas, 25-30 Shiva Lingas, Ashtabhairav, Ekadasa Rudrasthana, temples for hundreds of Deities, Jalakund and monuments are there. Ujjain is also called Indrapuri, Amaravati or Avantika Nagar. In ancient litterature the city was also called “Vishaala”. Legend has it that Shiva commemorated his victory over the demon ruler of Tripuri by changing the name of his capital from Avantika to Ujjaini, which means, “One who conquers with pride”. Ujjain is also famous for its two Kali temples. One for Kali Devi “Harasiddhi Matha”, who gave darshan to king Vikramaditya, who is believed to have held court in this city, and a temple for the “Mahakali” who gave Darshan to the poet Kalidasa. Kalidasa is one of the Nava Ratnas (Nine Gems) of Hindu literature, and some of his work is written in Ujjain. Many dynasties ruled over this prosperous city, and it is also said to have been the seat of the viceroyalty of Ashoka around 275BC. His sons were born here, and it was from here they set out to preach Buddhism. Kings like Bhooja and many more pious people and saints has been living in this city. Astrologically Ujjain stands on the first meridian of longitude for Hindu astronomers, who believe that the Tropic of Cancer also passed through the site. This explains the presence of the Vedha Shala observatory, southwest of the town, built by Raja Jai Singh II of Jaipur around 1730. Even today the Ephemeris tables (predicted positions of the planets) are published here. *The other 6 Moksha Sthalams are: Varanasi, Allahabad, Nasik, Haridwar & Rishikesh

Kumbha Mela

The Kumbha or Simhastha Fair of Ujjain comes every twelve years when Jupiter enters the sign of Leo. “Simhastha” means “placed in the Simha (Leo) sign”. On this day millions of people come to have a holy dip in the Kshipra River. Hindu legend tells that during a war over the urn (Kumbh) of immortal nectar (Amrit) between the gods and demons, Vishnu gave the urn to Garuda, his winged mount. During his flight, four drops of the nectar fell on four places, Nasik, Ujjain, Haridwar and Allahabad. Kumbha Mela is held at each spot in turn every three years, when certain planetary configurations transforms the waters of Ganges into Nectar. Pilgrims from all over India, converge at the Kumbha Mela to wash away their sins, making it the worlds largest religious gathering. Specially built tent cities and stalls spring up to cater the influx. The last Kumbha Mela held in Ujjain was in 2004.

OM Namah Shivaya
 

Govardhan

Govardhan Hill is situated some 20 km west of Mathura. It is one of the most frequently visited places in Vraja-mandala. It is not surprising because from the time of Sri Krisna's pastimes 5000 years ago, only three things remained as they were: dust of Vrindavan, Yamuna River and Govardhan Hill. Giriraj (another name of Govardhan) is the best of Krisna's servants because it supplies Krisna, Balarama and cowherd boys fresh grass for their cows, fruits, roots, minerals and beautiful scenery for their wonderful pastimes. The Appearance of Govardhan in Vraja It is said in the Adivaraha-purana, that during the advent of Ramacandra, the monkeys and bears brought large rocks and stones from many places to construct a bridge to Lanka. Hanuman was carrying Govardhan to the ocean, having uprooted him from Uttarancala, when he heard a divine sound that announced: "The bridge is now complete and no more rocks are required..." ...Hearing this Hanumanji became sad and put Giriraj down. Giriraj also became very unhappy and said to Hanumanji: "You have deprived me of the touch of Sri Rama's lotus feet," and he was ready to curse him. But Hanumanji replied: "Please forgive me. In the next Dvapara-yuga, your desire will be fulfilled... ...Svayam Bhagavan, Sri Krisna will stop the worship of Indra and worship you instead." Saying this Hanumanji leapt into the air and arrived at Sri Ramacandra's side. Lord Rama declared: "All those rocks which have been assembled to build the bridge, have been delivered by the touch of My feet. But I shall fulfill the desire of Govardhan by holding him on My hand and make him famous as the best Haridas." The Garga-samhita relates different story from a different kalpa: Pulatsya Muni once reached Dronacala Hill. Govardhan, the son of Dronacala, was very beautiful, fragrant, smooth and full of green trees and creepers. Muni desired to bring him to his residence in Kasi, because there was no such a hill around. He asked Dronacala to give him Govardhan so that he can perform his sahdana-bhajan peacefully on beautiful Govardhan in Kasi... ...Dronacala could not refuse, fearing the curse of the Muni, but at the same time did not wanted to loose his beloved son. But Govardhan agreed to go under one condition: If Pulatsya will put him down somewhere on the way, he will not go further and remain there. The Risi accepted his condition and by his mystic power raised him on his palm and proceeded to Kasi... ...As they reached Vraja, thoughts of Krisna entered Govardhan's mind and he became very heavy. The Risi could no longer carry him and was forced to put him down for refreshment and answer the call of nature. After the Risi took bath, ate something and rested, he tried to lift him again and continue his journey. But Govardhan refused. The Risi could not move him even when he employed all his power and finally, in great anger, cursed him saying: "You will diminish in size of one sesame seed every day." Govardhan accepted the curse, knowing that Krisna's lilas are near, but in fact diminishes every day since than... ...But who can say whether this is due to the Risi's curse or due to separation from his Lord Sri Krisna. Govardhan Hill was about 3 km high 5000 years ago . Presently at its highest point the hill is just 25 m high and 11 km long. Govardhan Hill is said to resemble a peacock. Radha-kund and Syama-kund are his eyes, Manasi-Ganga and Govardhan town his waist and the Apsara-kund and Nava-kund is the tail (punch). 59. Airavata-kund 60. Samadhis 61. Mukharavinda, Vitthala's samadhi 62. Dandavat-sila 63. Jatipur village 64. Gulala-kund 65. Gantholi 66. Vilachu-kund 67. Sakhi-sthali 68. Nima Gaon 69. Uddhava-kund 70. Siva-khari 71. Radha-Kunjabihari Gaudiya Math Govardhan 1. Radha-kund 2. Syama-kund 3. Lalita-kund 4. Mukhara 5. Kusuma-sarovara 6. Uddhava Temple 7. Ashoka-vana 8. Narada-kund 9. Ratna-kund 10. Rasa-sthali 11. Ratna-simhasan 12. Krisna's footprint 13. Gval-pokhara 14. Sant Nivas 15. Jugal-kund 16. Kilola-kund 17. Panca-tirtha-kund 18. Mukharavinda 19. Cakra-tirtha (Cakaleswara, bhajan-kutir of Sanatana Gosvami) 20. Manasi-ganga 21. Brahma-kund 22. Manasidevi Temple 23. Harideva Temple 24. Govardhan Town 25. Rinamocan-kund 26. Dana-gati Giriraj Mandir 27. Radharani's footprint 28. Laksmi-Narayan Temple 29. Dani-raja Temple 30. Temple 31. Papamocan-kund 32. Danivartan-kund 33. Candra-sarovara 34. Parasauli 35. Gauri-kund 36. Aniyor village 37. Gopal Raj Temple 38. Siva Temple 39. Balarama (Dauji) Temple 40. Sankarsana-kund 41. Gopala-prakata sthali 42. Govinda-kund 43. Nipa-kund, Radha-Govinda Temple 44. Madhavendra Puri's bhajan-kutir, Indra-tila 45. Doka-dauji Temple 46. Balarama-mukut sila 47. Nrsimha Temple 48. Nava-kund 49. Apsara-kund 50. Puncharika Lautha Baba Temple 51. Syama-dhaka 52. Mani-kandali Cave 53. Nathji Temple 54. Airavata's footprint 55. Indra-puja 56. Indra-kund 57. Surabhi-kund 58. Rudra-kund, Hariju-kund On the way to Govardhan on Delhi-Agra road is a village called Chatikara where Nanda Maharaja stayed for some time while traveling from Gokula to Nandagram. Today we can see there a really interesting road sign... Half way there we pass by the biggest banyan tree in whole Vraja. Govardhan-parikram (circumambulating of Govardhan Hill) should traditionally begin near Manasi-ganga, on the waist of Govardhan. But riksas from Vrindavan will usually take you to the crossing near Radha-kund and most devotees start their parikrama from there. Kusuma-sarovara A 25-minute walk from Radha-kund is Kusuma-sarovara, our first stop. Kusuma means "flower," and kusuma-vana is a forest of flowers. Srimati Radhika used to come here on the pretext of picking flowers with her girlfriends, but Her real intent was to meet Sri Krisna, with whom She would have love-quarrels (keli-kalada) and sarcastic exchanges full of rasa. Many pastimes took place here at Kusuma-sarovara: One morning, Srimati Radhika and Her sakhis arrived on the bank of the lake to pick the fragrant flowers that bloomed here in abundance. Seeing a branch full of flowers, She pulled it down with one hand and started to pick flowers with the other... ...Knowing that Srimati Radharani was coming, playful Krisna had climbed that tree and had stationed Himself on that very branch. Using all His weight to push that branch down, He had hidden Himself so that Srimati Radharani would not see Him... ...Radharani became absorbed in picking flowers from that branch when Krisna suddenly shifted to another branch. At once the first branch sprung up, lifting Srimati Radharani with it... ...Radhika cried out for help and Sri Krisna immediately leapt from the tree and caught the hanging Srimati Radharani in His arms... ...Seeing this, the sakhis began clapping and laughing loudly, but Radhika began to scold Him. Tortoises living in the Kusuma-sarovara are said to be the great sages, living for centuries in their bodies and meditating on the divine pastimes of Radha and Krisna. Some say that if you feed tortoise you will became healthy. Nowadays, it is a good place to take bath and even swim as this is the best swimming spot in the Vraja area. Furthermore, where in the whole world one can get the following benediction: "Anyone who bathes in sanctified waters of this lake becomes eligible to witness that ambrosial eightfold pastimes (asta-kaliya-lila) of Sri Sri Radha and Krisna." The present ghatas were built by Javaraha Singh, the Maharaja of Bharatpur, who looted the treasury of Delhi in 1767 and with that money built beautiful ghatas and sandstone monuments... ...To the west of Sarovara is the tomb of his father, Raja Surajamala, one of the most famous Jat warriors in India's history, with the tombs of his two queens. The Raja as built it mostly for the glorification of his family, as you can see on the wall paintings... ...Bigger paintings are showing events from the history of his family and smaller ones are depicting the pastimes of Sri Krisna. ...The pure devotional atmosphere has been ruined to some extend, but the wise man will take the milk part, leaving the water, as swan (hansa) is capable of doing... It is said that Astavakra Muni left his body on the bank of Kusuma-sarovara, while doing penances on its banks and waiting for the appearance of Radha and Krisna. The small Siva-linga temple on the western bank of the kund marks the spot, where he gave up his body after being blessed with Their divine darsan. During Lord Chaitanya's times this place was known as Sumanah-sarovara. It is stated in Caitanya-caritamrita, that Sri Caitanya also took bath there. Nearby is the temple of Dauji. Also at this place is a temple dedicated to Uddhava. This temple was established by Krishna's great-grandson about 4,800 years ago. It is a peaceful place. Uddhava is the cousin of Lord Krisna. He is the son of Vasudeva's brother and almost the same age as Krisna. His body resembles Krisna's body almost exactly... ...After delivering Krisna's message to the gopis, Uddhava realized their exalted position and prayed: "Let me be fortunate enough to be one of the bushes, creepers or herbs in Vrindavan, because the gopis trample them and bless them with the dust of their feet." Uddhava remains there in the form of the grass known as gulma-lata. Ashoka-lata, a kunja (forest grove) is also on the bank of Kusuma-sarovara. This is where Krisna braided Srimati Radharani's hair. This pastimes is described by Krisnadas Kaviraj Gosvami in Govida-lilamrita. There is small temple on the left of Kusuma-sarovara, by the road, that marks the place where Krisna decorated Radharani's hair. Samadhi further on the way. Narada-kund About four hundred meters little off the road south-east of Kusuma-sarovara is Narada-kund. After Narada Muni heard the glories of supreme gopi-bhava from the mouth of Vrindadevi, a strong desire to serve Radha and Krisna in the form of gopi arose in his heart. He received a gopala-mantra from Brahma and begin his sadhana-bhajana... ...After performing worship for many yugas Yogamaya Paurnamasi dipped Naradaji in Kusuma-sarovara and he received a body of the gopi... ...Thereafter he obtained the qualification to perform seva of the Divine Couple... ...Seeing Narada there in the form of a gopi, Sri Krishna requested him to stay at Narada-vana and write bhakti-sastras... ...Although Narada had been cursed by Daksa not to be able to stay in one place, Krisna informed Narada that because Vrindavan-dhama is not a part of the material world, the curse of Daksa would not apply here... ..After another bath in Kusuma-sarovara, he changed back to he male form and returned to this place, where he wrote the famous treatise on devotional service known as the Narada-bhakti-sutra. There is a small temple of Narada Muni with friendly pujaris. Some say that Narada must have also instructed Prahlada Maharaja here in the womb of his mother, since it is said that he took her to his ashram and instructed little Prahlada in her womb for some time. In any other place it would not be possible for Narada to stay for some time and it is concluded that he must have done it here, in Vraja, where Daksa's curse had no effect. It is a highly beneficial to have darsan of this Narada-kund. Syama-kutir and Ratna-simhasana Situated in the forest of Syama-vana (black forest) there is a very beautiful place known as Syama-kutir. This area is also known as Ratna-simhasana, because there used to be a fabulous throne here, made entirely from precious gems like diamonds, rubies and sapphires. Srimati Radharani, the queen of Vraja, used to sit on this Ratna-simhasana, surrounded by thousands of Her girlfriends. Upon request, the friendly pujaris will show you the small room inside the building that mark the actual place of Ratna-simhasana. On the full moon day after Siva-caturdasi (Siva-ratri), Sri Krisna and Sri Balarama were playing Holi with the gopis using syringes to squirt each other with water of many colors... ...The sweet music and melodious ragas filled the air and Srimati Radhika sat down on the nearby Ratna-simhasana throne. At this time servant of Kuvera named Sankhacuda, who considered Bhagavan Sri Krisna to be an ordinary human being, tried to abduct these extremely beautiful gopis... ...In voices of distress, they started to call out: "Krisna, Krisna". Sri Krisna ran to the call of the gopis with great speed and killed Sankhacuda with His fist... ...He took the jewel from the demon's forehead and gave it to Sri Balarama, who sent it to Srimati Radharani through Dhanistha... ...Ratna-kund (lake) is said to mark the spot where the demon Sankhacuda (Sankhasura) carried off Radharani, who was sitting on jeweled throne. Rasa-sthali The concrete circle with a seal on it is the place where Krisna and gopis would dance. Syama-kutir is situated amidst thick clusters of trees near Ratna-simhasana... ...Here Sri Syamasundara smeared His body with syama-colored musk, dressed Himself in syama-colored clothes and ornaments and entered a syama-colored nikunja... ...Even the gopis were not able to recognize Him. Syama of course means "black" or "dark". It is really one of the most beautiful spots on Govardhana-parikrama. Interestingly enough, the whole area of rasa-dance pastimes is even today protected by fence-like barrier of cactuses. This can be seen on enlarged image behind the tree. A bhajani-sila, which emits sweet sound when tapped, is nearby. Syama-kutir also marks the spot where Govardhan Hill first start to appear above the ground. From this point on Govardhan Hill actually begins to rise until it reaches its highest point just before Aniyor village. This place is famous, because the actual lotus footprint of Lord Krisna is impressed upon one of the rocks of Govardhan Hill. It is said that even the rock of Govardhan Hill began to melt when Krisna played His flute... ...and that is how this footprint came to be. Little further Govardhan is emerging even more from the ground... ...and beautiful cows and bulls reminds us of Krisna's pastimes... ...as we approach one of the many places near Govardhan where cowherd boys used eat with Krisna. Gval-pokhara (Gopal-kund) Gval or gowala means cowherd boy and pokhara means pool or kund. After an early lunch at Gval-pokhara, Krisna would manage to slip away from the company of the cowherd boys and head off to Radha-kund where he would meet with Srimati Radharani and the gopis. The pilgrims on the way... ...can see different ways of worship of Govardhan Hill. Simple ones... ...and of course more sophisticated ones (govardhana-silas). On our way (further away on the left side of the parikrama road and the places at the picture) we can see Jugal-kund, where Nanda Maharaja and the cowherd men would stay on their way from Gokula to Nandagram and Kilola-kund (Kalenvana) where Krisna would play ball with His cowherd friends and enjoy water pastimes with the gopis. Passing by the ear of Govardhan we proceed to the Govardhan town... Just as one enters the town of Govardhan, on the right side of the road, is beautiful palace built by the kings of Bharatapura. ...At the side of this palace it is the Panca-tirtha-kund, which contains the water of five (panca) holy rivers: Narmada, Gomati, Sarayu, Kanchi and Vetri... ...The Building in front is known as the Bharatpur Raja's Chatri. ...it is generally not open to the public. Manasi-ganga Mana means "mind" and Ganga refers to the Ganges River. Krisna was once tending the cows with the cowherd boys. Demon Vatsasura came in disguise as a calf and wanted to kill Krisna. Krisna however was aware of him, took him by his hind legs, whipped him around and threw him up into a tree... ...Because Krisna killed a demon in the shape of a calf, the cowherd boys asked Him to take bath in Ganga in order to purify Himself. Not wanting to leave Vraja, Krisna informed cowherd boys that He would call the river Ganges to appear in Vraja. Krishna entered into meditation and Ganges manifested in front of Him in the form of Manasi-ganga. On another occasion Nanda and Yasoda, hearing of the glories of the Ganges river, had a desire to bathe in it. They heard how Garuda captured a snake and on his way accidentally touched his tail in Ganga's waters. The snake was transformed into four armed form of Vaikuntha resident and amazed Garuda took him right there... ...Seeing the arrangements made for the journey, Krisna informed Nanda and Yasoda that there is no need to go out of the Vraja, since all holy places are present there... ...When Krisna arrived with Nanda, Yasoda and others on the shore of Manasi-ganga, Ganga-Mata personified appeared from the water and offered prayers to the Lord. When the inhabitants of Vrindavan saw Ganga, they offered obeisances to her and took bath in her waters. Many pastimes of Krisna and gopis took place on Manasi-ganga and most famous is the one where Krisna disguised as an old boatman made gopis to feed Him with sweets and milk, massage His legs and arms to continue rowing and finally throw all their pots, jewels and bracelets to the water to prevent heavy boat from sinking... ...When He suggested that the boat is still too heavy and they should sacrifice their clothes and threw them also in the water, the gopis refused, but when He arranged for a storm and embraced Radharani for protection, He was finally exposed. Chakra-tirtha, which was created by the Sudarsana-chakra, is embedded in the northern bank of Manasi-ganga. The temple of Chakaleswar Siva-linga is at Manasi-ganga. It is one of the five presiding Siva-lingas worshiped in Vrindavan. There are many interesting places around Manasi-ganga. One of them is bhajan-kutir of Sanatana Gosvami. Sanatana Gosvami would perform Govardhana-parikrama as his daily vow... ... When Sanatana was thinking about moving from this place because of mosquitoes, Siva (Chakaleswar) disguised as a brahmana came to told him that mosquitoes would no longer disturb him. Even now this place is almost free from mosquitoes. Deity of Nanda Maharaja in nearby Temple... Mukharavinda Temple There are two silas in this temple. One sila is marked with the outline of Krishna's crown (Mukut-sila)... ... According to Bhaktisiddhanta Maharaja the other sila is the mouth of Govardhan (Mukharavinda-sila). Pilgrims pour a lot of milk every day to this Govardhana-sila. Nearby Brahma-kundwas formed by the water that was collected after Lord Brahma bathed Lord Krishna. This is where Lord Brahma offered his prayers after he took the cowherd boys away and hid them to test the power of Krishna. It is located on the southern bank of Manasi-ganga. Manasi-devi Temple is located on the bank of Brahma-kund. Manasi-devi is the presiding deity of Manasi-ganga, and one of the four main goddesses of Vraja-dhama. The others are Vrindadevi, in Kamavan; Yogamaya Devi in Vrindavan; and Pataleswari Devi in Mathura. The Harideva Temple, near Manasi-ganga, was established by Krishna's great-grandson 4,800 years ago. Harideva is one of the four presiding Deities of Vrindavan. The temple is a two-minute walk from the southern bank of Manasi-ganga. The temple was built by King Bhagandas of Jaipur, whose son, Rajaman Singh, built the Govindaji Temple in the sixteenth century during the reign of Emperor Akbar. The original Deity of Harideva was moved to the town of Rajdhani near Kanpur when Aurangzeb sent his soldiers to destroy the Deities and temples of Vraja. But the Deity is no longer in Rajdhani. One day Srimati Radharani and the gopis were waiting for Krisna to come and meet them. As they were waiting, the gopis started to feel intense separation from Krisna and they began to chant: "Harideva, Harideva, Harideva!" over and over again and their feeling intensified to the point of almost giving up their lives. Suddenly Krisna appeared in this beautiful Deity form of seven-year-old boy holding Govardhan Hill in His left hand and flute in the other. The ecstasy of Radharani and the gopis knew no bounds. Since than Radharani and gopis would come here every day and worshiped Govardhana-natha Harideva with many offerings. „Mad with ecstatic love, the Lord came to the village known as Govardhan. It was there that He saw the Deity of Harideva and offered His obeisances... ...than He began to dance before the Deity. Hearing of the Lord's wonderful activities, all people came to see Him...” Caitanya-caritamrita 18.17.20 Sri Harideva is presiding Deity of Giriraj-Govardhan and no Govardhana-parikrama is complete without His darsan. Manasi-ganga is traditionally the starting and ending point of the Govardhana-parikrama. Therefore after bathing in Manasi-ganga and taking darsan of Harideva, we went to the parikrama path and continued to the town through the market... ...where we bought few delicious samosas and sweets. This shop is really famous for their savories and sweets. Although we were very careful about not eating and drinking in unknown places, we made exception here. We have reached the crossing of Mathura road and the Laksmi-Narayana Temple on our left. This is one of the 108 Divya Desam Temples mentioned by the Alwars as being one of the most important temples in India. Govardhan at Dana-gati. At Dana-gati, where once used to be just a narrow pass used by gopis when they wanted to take their milk products to the other side of Govardhan... ...and Krisna blocked their way and demanded a tax... ...we have also seen Baba doing dandavats around Govardhan... ...and manufacturing of tulasi japa beads. Than we have stayed for some time on the opposite side near Radharani's footprints... ...listened to krsna-katha... ...from different speakers... ...and sang kirtans on our way. This beautiful property was formerly owned by Maharaja Chattarpur from Madhya Pradesh... ...who was worshiping a beautiful Govardhana-sila in a small shrine. When devotees moved in, they continued the worship of this Deity. During digging of large hole for the underground water tank, the devotees discovered a Govardhana-sila that turned out to be exactly the same size and shape as the existing Krisna-sila... ...this sila was whitish in color and now it is worshiped as Balarama at Krisna's side. From the temple roof there is a good view of Dani-raja Temple on the top of the Hill dedicated to Krisna's tax pastime... ...The temple has been abandoned and the priests have moved the worship to a new temple of Dana-gati Giriraj Mandir at the crossing of Mathura road... ...Since devotes from gaudiya-vaisnava sampradaya never step on Govardhan Hill as Sri Caitanya taught, the priests maybe wanted Deity to move down to be visited by more devotees. Or maybe there is some other reason... Dana-gati (where Krisna's tax pastimes took place) is a busy place, and therefore we will listen to the Krsna's tax pastimes on our way to Danivartan-kund. Once on the bank of Govinda-kund, Sri Bhaguri Risi was performing yajna for the pleasure of Supreme Lord. From the other side of Dana-gati, Srimati Radhika and Her sakhis were bringing yogurt, milk, butter, rabadi and many other kinds of milk-sweets... ...Krisna with Subala, Madhumangala and other boys obstructed the path and forcibly demanded toll. Sakhas and gopis began to taunt each other with sarcastic remarks. Krisna standing in tribanga form asked: "What are you carrying?" "Milk, yogurt and butter for the yajna of Bhaguri Risi," gopis replied. Madhumangala promptly said: "Quickly pay the dana (tax) and move on..." ...Lalita, filled with sarcasm, asked, "What dana? We have never paid any dana before." But Krisna insisted: "You can pass only after paying dana." Radharani replied: "Since when you have become dani here? Did you inherited this place from your father?" "Don't be so insolent! I am Vrindavanesvara, the ruler of Vrindavan!" "How is that?" "Vrinda is My wedded wife. The property of the wife is also property of the husband. Vrindavan is the kingdom of Vrindadevi, therefore it is My kingdom as well." "Accha?" Lalita answered haughtily. "We have never heard anything about this. Let us see what Vrindadevi says." She turned towards Vrindadevi and smilingly asked: "Vrinde! Is this 'black one' your husband?" Vrinda replied: "Never! I have never seen this guy. This is my kingdom and I have handled it to Vrindavanesvari Srimati Radhika." All the sakhis burst out laughing and Sri Krisna became embarrassed. But He still demanded dana to be paid. After this prema-kalaha, or love quarrel, the gopis exchanged dan of prema at Danivartan-kund. Danivartan-kund (Dana-nivartana-kunda) Once when Radharani and Her girlfriends were at Radha-kund, one of the Radharani's pet parrots informed Her of a great sacrifice being conducted at Govinda-kund. Taking bath and dressing very nicely, Radharani and all Her girlfriends left Govinda-kund, carrying golden pots of milk products on their heads... ...Meanwhile, Krisna's pet parrot told Him, that Srimati Radharani was proceeding towards Govinda-kund along with Her girlfriends. When Radharani and the gopis arrived, Krisna challenged them to stop and pay the tax: "You are regularly using this pathway to sell your milk products but you never ever pay the tax!" ...He told Radharani that each of Her assistants must pay a handful of diamond as a tax and by His clever use of words the argument turned erotic, suggesting that Radharani must pay extra tax for all the beautiful parts of her body. Radharani became angry and walked away, but Krisna forcibly stopped Her... ...He told Radharani that She could go, but Lalita must stay as a hostage to make sure they would return to pay tax. Lalita in furry threatened them by calling mother Yasoda and Radharani's mother in law Jatila. Finally Nandimukhi, Radharani's close companion, convinced Krisna to release Radharani, because Her reputation as a chaste lady would be ruined and assured Him, that gopis would return next day to this kund to pay tax in full... ...However, the gopis were feeling very angry at Krisna for threatening them in this way. Next day, Lalita, Visakha and hundreds of gopis hid themselves around this lake. When Krisna arrived with a few cowherd boys, the gopis pounced at them, beat them, tied them up to the tree and humiliated them in various ways... ...Lalita than demanded that Krisna pay tax to Srimati Radharani, the queen of Vrindavan, because His cows were eating the grass of Her forests. Lalita than brought Radhika and forced Krisna to bow down to Her lotus feet, ask forgiveness and accept Her as the queen of Vrindavan. So this is the lake (kund) where tax (dani) have been returned (nivartana). The various tax pastimes went on almost daily because due to the influence of Yogamaya, the gopis would forget the previous days episode. They are described in Dana-keli-cintamani by Raghunath das Gosvami, Dana-keli-kamudhi by Sanatan Gosvami and other vaisnava literature. "When Sri Caitanya saw Govardhana Hill, He immediately offered obeisances, falling down on the ground like the rod. He embraced one piece of the rock from Govardhana Hill and become mad. Just by seeing Govardhan hill Sri Caitanya became ecstatic with love for Krisna. While dancing and dancing, He recited the verse from the Srimad-Bhagavatam..." Caitanya-caritamrita Govardhana-lila Once on seeing His father, Nanda Baba, and all the inhabitants of Vrindavan collecting various items for the annual Indra-puja, Sri Krisna convinced them to stop and worship Govardhana Hill instead. Krisna explained that Govardhan provides them with everything they need for living and by worshiping this sacred hill all good fortune would automatically come to them... ...Following Krisna's advice, brajavasis cooked thousands of wonderful preparations and placed them here, in area between Danivartan-kund and Aniyor village. There were literally thousands of hills made of samosas, kacoris, rice, halva, puris, sweetballs, lakes of subjis, sweet rice and innumerable other preparations for the pleasure of Govardhan Hill... ...When puja was to began , Krisna suddenly expanded Himself into gigantic body of Giriraj. He declared that He is Govardhan Himself and started to eat all the preparations made by brajavasis. He dunked the water from various kundas and still unsatisfied started to call: "Aniyor! Aniyor! (Bring me more! Bring me more!)" The village near Sankarsana-kund is until now called Aniyor... ...Gigantic Govardhan finished all that was prepared and still unsatisfied called: "Aniyor! Aniyor!" Brajavasis became little worried: "We are poor villagers, whatever we had, we have presented before you! Please be satisfied with that." "Aniyor! Aniyor!" Than somebody suggested, that the Supreme Lord will be satisfied with tulasi leaves and water form the Ganges... ...They gave him tulasi leaves and when He dunked Manasi-ganga, Kusuma-sarovara and other kundas, He finally exclaimed: "Tripto 'smi! Tripto 'smi! (Now I am satisfied! Now I am satisfied!)" and wiped His hands and mouth with his cloth. He told brajavasis to ask for a boon. They requested for only one: "May this lala of ours always remain happy and live a very long life." By "lala" they of course meant non other than Sri Krisna... ...When the four handed form of Giriraj disappeared, Krisna told brajavasis: "Did you ever had a darsan of Lord Indra? And Giriraj is very kind, He came personally to see you. He fulfills everyone's desires." After Govardhana-puja all the brajavasis became very satisfied and felt that their lives were successful. Nanda Maharaja called brahmanas to perform huge yajna (sacrifice) and all the demigods attended. All except Indra... ...Indra felt insulted and thought how to teach a lesson to those cowherds. Under the influence of false pride he became enraged and sent samvartaka clouds to Vrindavan. Samvartaka are the clouds that are used at the end of each kalpa to destroy the whole cosmic manifestation. Torrents of rain, thunder, lighting and sever wind attacked Vrindavan and created a havoc... ...Terrified brajavasis approached Sri Krisna for protection. With his left hand Krisna lifted Govardhan Hill and held it like an umbrella over the whole Vrindavan. For seven days they remained sheltered by Govardhan and they were simply astonished how Krisna may had lifted the whole mountain as easy as child lifts the mushroom... ...When Indra saw that a small little boy holds the whole hill on the little finger of His left hand, he was baffled by His mystic power and called the clouds back. The rain stopped, sky was cleared and Krisna asked the brajavasis to return to their homes. Than He gently placed Govardhan at the place where it was before. Nanda Baba, mother Yasoda and boys embraced Krisna and gopis began to sing beautiful songs about Him... ...Indra realized his mistake and went to his guru for advice. "This is serious offence, I cannot help you! But you may try to see Lord Brahma and ask him for a Surabhi cow. Krisna is very fond of the cows and Surabhi may persuade Him to forgive you." Indra rushed to Brahmaloka and got the Surabhi from Lord Brahma. Than he came and pleaded Krisna for forgiveness. Krisna stood there, looking at Indra and Indra didn't know, if he is being forgiven... ...Airavata, Indra's elephant, made abhisek of Krisna with the water of celestial Ganga he brought in his trunk, Surabhi poured over Him his milk and offered to him beautiful prayers. The water from this bathing ceremony created the famous Govinda-kund. Than all the demigods came and together they performed puja with golden paraphernalia, jewels and other precious items... ...Lord Brahma coroneted Krisna with golden crown and declared Him to be the real Indra (the king) of all the demigods and living beings. Than the demigods departed. After getting all the calves together, brajavasis returned to Krisna and saw all those golden paraphernalia. They wondered where all those things came from. Nanda Baba became somewhat worried: "I only hope that Krisna didn't steel it somewhere, in some temple. We know he was stealing butter as a small child..." …But Krisna's fatty brahmana friend Madhumangala told them: "Do not worry. When everybody run away I could not. You know I am not so quick. I could not run and I have seen what happened. "First cow came and started to talk to Krisna, than elephant with Ganges water. After while a guy with four head came and started to worship Krisna with all of those golden things. Then another one came... ...He was far out! He had eyes all over his body, and than the one with snakes came, all this far out people came and started to worship Krisna. And after they bathed Krisna, they left just shortly before you came." Krisna's boyfriends didn't know what to think about this funny brahmana boy, but they stopped worrying, picked up those camaras, ghee lamps, conshells and umbrellas, had Krisna seated on the throne and spontaneously started to worship Him like that... ...Krisna began to smile, enjoying their company. Demigods watching the scene and seeing Krisna's beaming smile were struck with wonder, since during their worship, Krisna just officially stood and didn't show much concern. Suddenly the voice from the sky announced: "Nanda Maharaja, you should now coronate your son as the King of the cows and the King of Vraja..." ...Nanda Baba then coroneted Him with all the inhabitants of Vrindavan saying: "Krisna, You are our protector and You have protected the cows of Vrindavan. Therefore, we will call you Govinda". Before Krisna was Gopal (a small cowherd boy) and how, He became Govinda (one who gives pleasure to the cows). Thus Nanda Baba coroneted Krisna and gave him the name Govinda. In memory of Nanda Maharaja's Annakut ceremony, devotees in the temples and in their homes celebrate Govardhan-puja by making Govardhan Hill out of halva. They circumambulate it and hear about Krisna's Govardhan pastimes. The Govardhan made of halva may be huge as this one or small in case of home celebration. Surabhi-vana Surabhi-vana used to be a large forest surrounding Govinda-kund. Surabhi cows were grazing here on the fresh grass. Near Surabhi-vana there is a very old temple of Madan-mohan, where the cowherds bring their herds to rest. Bhajan-kutir of Madhavendra Puri is on the bank of Govinda-kund. "Once, Sri Madhavendra Puri traveled to Vrindavan, where he came upon the hill known as Govardhan. Madhavendra Puri was almost mad in his ecstasy of love of Godhead, and he did not know whether it was day or night. Sometimes he stood up, and sometimes he fell to the ground. He could not discriminate whether he was in a proper place or not. After circumambulating the hill, Madhavendra Puri went to Govinda-kund and took his bath... ...He then sat beneath a tree to take his evening rest. While he was sitting beneath a tree, an unknown cowherd boy came with a pot of milk, placed it before Madhavendra Puri, and, smiling, addressed Him as follows. "Please drink the milk I have brought. Why don't you beg some food to eat? What kind of meditation are you undergoing?" When he saw the beauty of that boy, Madhavendra Puri became very satisfied. Hearing His sweet words, he forgot all hunger and thirst... ...Madhavendra Puri said: "Who are You? Where do You reside? And how did You know that I was fasting?" The boy replied: "Sir, I am a cowherd boy, and I reside in this village. In My village, no one fasts. "In this village a person can beg food from others and thus eat. Some people drink only milk, but if a person does not ask anyone for food, I supply him all his eatables. "The women who come here to take water saw you, and they supplied Me with this milk and sent Me to you." The boy continued: "I must go very soon to milk the cows, but I shall return and take back this milk pot from you." Saying this, the boy left the place... ...Indeed, He suddenly could be seen no more, and Madhavendra Puri's heart was filled with wonder. After drinking the milk, Madhavendra Puri washed the pot and put it aside. He looked toward the path, but the boy never returned. Madhavendra Puri could not sleep. He sat and chanted the Hare Krsna maha-mantra, and at the end of the night he dozed a little, and his external activities stopped. In a dream Madhavendra Puri saw the very same boy. The boy came before him and, holding his hand, took him to a bush in the jungle. The boy showed Madhavendra Puri the bush and said: "I reside in this bush, and because of this I suffer very much from severe cold, rain showers, winds and scorching heat... ..."Please bring the people of the village and get them to take Me out of this bush. Then have them situate Me nicely on top of the hill. "Please construct a temple on top of that hill," the boy continued, "and install Me in that temple. After this, wash Me with large quantities of cold water so that My body may be cleansed. "For many days I have been observing you, and I have been wondering, `When will Madhavendra Puri come here to serve Me?'... ..."I have accepted your service due to your ecstatic love for Me. Thus I shall appear, and by My audience all fallen souls will be delivered. "My name is Gopala. I am the lifter of Govardhan Hill. I was installed by Vajra, and here I am the authority. "When the Mohammedans attacked, the priest who was serving Me hid Me in this bush in the jungle. Then he ran away out of fear of the attack. "Since the priest went away, I have been staying in this bush... ...It is very good that you have come here. Now just remove Me with care." After saying this, the boy disappeared. Then Madhavendra Puri woke up and began to consider his dream. Madhavendra Puri began to lament: "I saw Lord Krisna directly, but I could not recognize Him!" Thus he fell down on the ground in ecstatic love. Madhavendra Puri cried for some time, but then he fixed his mind on executing the order of Gopala. Thus he became tranquil." Caitanya-caritamrita, Madhya 4.21-46 Gopala-prakata sthali (Sringara sthali) This is the actual spot where Srila Madhavendra Puri discovered the beautiful Gopala Deity now known as Sri Nathji. The Deity of Gopal was originally installed by Vajranabha 4800 years ago and it is very special and beautiful... ...After Madhavendra Puri left Vrindavan, two brahmanas from Bengal served the Deity. After time had passed, Raghunath das Gosvami saw that there was a need to find a devotee to serve Gopala. He gave it to Vitthala, the son of Vallabhacarya. Inside Gopala-prakata-sthali. Bhajani-sila behind Gopala-prakata-sthali makes different sounds when tapped on different places. Due to the fear of invaders, Sri Nathji was taken to Nathdwar by Ranaraj Singh of Mewar, in 17th century. Nathji Temple in Nathdwar is said to be the second riches temple in India, after the Balaji temple in Tirupati. The original temple where Madhavendra Puri worshipped Sri Gopala is on the top of the Govardhan Hill. It is called Gopal Raj Temple (the white building above Sankarsana-kund on the picture). Presently, there is a Govardhana-sila worshipped in the temple. Aniyor In the ancient village of Aniyor we can see the Temple of Lord Balarama (Dauji) also known as Sankarsana Mandir. The Deity was installed by Vajranabha... ...Deity is from the black stone and next to Him is smaller Krisna, His younger brother... ...When Aurangzeb sent his troops to destroy Vrindavan's temples, this Deity was hidden in nearby Sankarsana-kund. It is said in Adi-purana that one who takes bath in Sankarsana-kund is freed from the sin of killing the cow. Indra-tila is a small hill at the side of Govinda-kund where Lord Indra, Brahma and other demigods stood during Krisna's abhisek. The hill is surrounded by many buildings and it is very small now. In temple next to Madhavendra's bhajan-kutir on the Govinda-kund there is self manifested pratibhu-murti of Lord Gopala. The worship is managed by Gosvamis of Govindaji Mandir from Jaipur. Radha-Govinda Mandir The Deity of Sri Govindadev in this temple on the banks of Govinda-kund was originally installed by Vajranabha 5000 years ago. Nipa-kund Just behind Radha-Govinda Mandir there is small lake called Nipa-kund. There used to by many kadamba trees on the banks of this kund. Many of their leaves were in the shape of cups. Krisna and the cowherd boys used to take lunch here on the banks of this kund and use the leaves of kadamba trees as cups... ...Once gopis were passing this way and Krisna blocked their way demanding tax. Gopis wanted to go on and threatened Krisna to tell king Kamsa about it. Krisna replied He was not afraid of Kamsa and He would kill him and threw his dead body on Govardhan Hill. Gopis laughed and leaving their pots with milk on the ground, returned home. Krisna then fed the boys with butter and yogurt. Doka-dauji Temple. Dauji means "elder brother". Once Balarama, Krisna's elder brother, was so intently looking at Krisna's movements during rasa-lila, that He turned blackish and the Deity became known as Doka, "staring", Dauji... ... On the left side there is an impression of Lord Balarama's crown (mukut) on a rock known as Balarama-mukut-sila. On the left side of the parikrama-road are many interesting place like Parasauli and Sringara Mandir on the way to Punchari. On the left side of the parikrama road near Sankarsana-kund there is Gauri-kund, where there used to be a Temple of Goddess Gauri, Siva's wife. Vidagdha-madhava-nataka describe an amusing pastime that took place here... ...One day Abhimanyu, the husband of Radharani, decided to bring Her to Mathura to keep Her away form Krisna. He went to Paurnamasi and asked Her for Her blessing to do so. She told him that whatever he had heard were just rumors. She convinced Abhimanyu not to go to Mathura and return home. Abhimanyu then requested Paurnamasi to have Radharani start worshipping Gauridevi... His mother, Jatila, had told him, that Candravali had started worshiping Gauridevi and her husband Govardhana-malla had become very rich. Radharani immediately left for the Gauridevi Temple, but Krisna came and blocked Her path. After a long argument Radha chastised Krisna and went to pick flowers for Gauridevi. Meanwhile Abhimanyu heard that Radha and Krisna were together at Gauri-kund. With his mother Jatila he left there, hoping to catch Radha and Krisna together. Krisna then went to the Temple and dressed up like Goddess Gauri, and stood in front of the deity. Radharani entered the temple and began to worship Goddess... ...Abhimanyu came rushing into the temple. Gauridevi (actually Krisna) then told Abhimanyu that there is a great danger awaiting him. Full of fear Abhimanyu asked the Goddess what the disaster is and she pointed to Vrindadevi to explain it. Vrindadevi then told him that Kamsa plans to cut off his head in two days and offer it to Lord Siva. Radharani then begged Gauridevi to save him. Goddess told Radharani that the benediction She is asking for is not possible to get from her... ...Radharani pleaded saying that She could not live without Her swami (lord). Gauri said that she would help him if Radharani promised that She would never leave Vraja and would always render service to her. Abhimanyu promised Gauridevi that he would never take Radharani away form Vraja and that She would always serve her faithfully. Jatila then praised Radharani having saved Abhimanyu's life. About 2 km away from our way on the left side of Aniyor village we were passing Parasauli. Parasauli is a place where the vasanti rasa-lila of Krisna and His beloved gopis took place. This rasa-dance continued for an entire night of Brahmaji, but it seemed that it was over in only a few moments. The moon in the sky have become stunned upon seeing the dance and was unable to move the whole night. Therefore this place is also called Candra-sarovara ("Lake of the Moon"). In the western corner of the sarovara is Sringara Mandira, where Krisna personally decorated Radharani. Suradas-kuti and samadhi are situated also in this area. Suradas was a natural poet. He was blind, yet he would compose poems with sweet beautiful descriptions of the different srngaras or outfits of Sri Nathji Deity... One day pujari did not dress Sri Nathji at all and Deity remained completely naked. He opened the doors of the altar and asked Suradas to compose a poem describing Deity's sringara. Suradas remained silent for some time and than laughed loudly and to everyone's amazement sang: "Aj bhaya hari nangam naga (Today Sri Hari remained undressed and naked...)" Since we went on Govardhana-parikrama shortly after the monsoon ended, the water blocked our way at Apsara-vana... ...but one helpful village boy helped us to find a way to Apsara-kund and Nava-kund. Punchari - the tail of Govardhan (this time without water) Nava-kund (Navala-kund) Navala means "young" or "ever youthful" and this lake received its name after ever-youthful Sri Krisna. Once Radha and Krisna were absorbed in ecstasy of the rasa dance and than Krisna looked at the beautiful Radharani and simply melted into this lake. Radharani than looked at tribanga-lalita form of Krisna and melted into Apsara-kund. The waters of these two kundas are simply melted forms of Radha-Krisna prema. This kund is sometimes called Punchari-kund, since it is directly at the Punchari (tail) of Govardhan Hill. Narasimha Mandir Near the banks of Nava-kund is a temple with the black stone Deity of Nrsimhadev... ...Upon request, the pujari may lift the Deity's dress to reveal Hiranyakasipu being ripped. Prahlada Maharaja is standing nearby... ...From the top of Narasimha Mandir one can get wonderful view of Apsara-vana, a forest surrounding the tail of Govardhan from the side of Govinda-kund. Apsara-kund When the demigods came bath Lord Krisna, 108 kundas were created by the water form His abhisek. Apsara-kund was created when the seven main Apsaras (heavenly dancing girls) came to perform their abhisek of Lord Krisna. Srimati Radharani is extremely beautiful apsara or transcendental damsel and Apsara-kund received its name after Her. Eternally youthful Nandanandana is right next to Her in the form of Navala-kund. On the bank of Apsara-kund there is Apsara-bihari Temple, Dauji Temple and small Apsara-isvara (Siva-linga) shrine. It is said that twenty four main incarnations of Lord Visnu eternally perform their pastimes on the bank of this kund. Krisna used to come here and for the pleasure of His boyfriends He manifested some of these forms and enjoy His pastimes... ...Once He manifested twelve-armed Visnu form in front of the gopis and Subal took form of Garuda. On another occasion He became Varaha and started to dig the Earth. Than He became Ramacandra and cowherd boy became monkeys. Punchari-ka Lautha Baba (Puncarika-lata Baba) Lautha Baba is one of the Krisna's cowherd boys. One day he cooked nice meal for Krisna and Balarama. Suddenly, Krisna passed by on Akrura's chariot heading to Mathura. Lautha invited Krisna and Balarama for this meal, but Krisna replied: "I am just coming", with the promise that He would return the very next day... ... Since this time Lautha Baba is sitting in this very same spot facing the road and eagerly waiting for Krisna and Balarama to return. He is not eating anything and he waits for Krisna to start eating together. The Deity looks like Hanuman at first glance and in fact Lautha Baba is considered nondifferent from Hanuman. Sutala-vana and Kadamba-vana Sutala-vana is another rasa-sthali, a place where rasa-lila took place. At the time of Bhaktisiddhanta Sarasvati, there used to be whole forest of kadamba trees. In 1992 some of them were already half-dry. Kadamba represents Radharani because of its wonderful flowers. One of Radharani's names is Gandharvika, because She is the source of all kinds of beautiful scents. The enchanting fragrances of Her body resemble that of kadamba and any time Krisna sees and smells kadamba flowers, He is reminded of Radharani. Tamala tree with its dark colored bark represent Krisna. Gopis in their mood of separation sometimes embrace tamal trees saying: "Oh, it is Krisna! He has come!" And sometimes Krisna stands there as He would be a tamal tree and Radharani would talk to Him in Her mood of separation mistaken Him to be a tamal tree. All around Vraja, there are many kadamba and tamal trees standing side by side - tamal and kadamba - and brajavasis bow down to them and worship them as Radha and Krisna. Some of the trees may be over 5000 years old and they have personally witnessed Krisna's manifested pastimes. We can pray to them to be able to see the Krisna's pastimes as they did. Raghava Pandit's Cave (Mani-kandali Cave) In this cave Radha and Krisna used to meet and enjoy their intimate pastimes together. Raghava Pandit, an associate of Mahaprabhu, used this cave as his bhajan-kutir to perform his nirjana-bhajana (secluded bhajana). Raghava Pandit always lived at Govardhan and Srila Rupa Gosvami arranged for Srinivasa Acarya and Narottama Thakur to go on Vraja-mandala parikrama with Raghava Pandit. Inside his bhajan-kutir cave. Than the parikrama road continues on the opposite side of the Govardhan Hill... ...and on our way listen to some more Krisna-katha... Sanatana Gosvami used to perform parikrama of Govardhan every day, even in his old age. Once, while doing parikrama in the summer heat, the soil under his feet was burning hot and there was not shade to be found. Suddenly, a cowherd boy came and held a yellow shawl over Sanatana to give him shade. With the other corner of the shawl, He started fanning Gosvamiji's face... ...His whole body became cool by the touch of that boy, who said to him: "Baba, in this old age, there is no need for you to perform parikrama of Govardhan and undergo so much hardship." Sanatana replied that he could not give it up as it is a part of his daily vows... ...Seeing that Sanatana was determined to continue, the boy brought a rock from Govardhan Hill marked with stick and the lotus feet of Krisna and gave it to Sanatana: "Take this Govardhana-sila, perform parikrama of this sila for seven times and you will receive the same benefit as doing whole Govardhana-parikrama..." ...Saying this the boy gave the sila to Sanatana and disappeared. The boy was no other than Giridhari, the lifter of Govardhan. Sanatana's sila used to reside in Radha-Damodara Temple in Vrindavan, but nowadays it is in the Radha-Damodara Temple in Jaipur. The pratibhu-vigraha of this sila is present in Radha-Damodara Mandir in Vrindavan. One can easily receive the results of performing Govardhana-parikrama by circumambulating the sila or whole Radha-Damodara Mandir four times. On our right side there is Indra-puja shrine on the Govardhan Hill and Airavata's footprint impressed upon the rock right next to it. Krisna was walking on Govardhan Hill seeing the damage caused to Vrindavan created by Indra's torrents of rain... ...On seeing Krisna, Indra fell down and offered obeisances at this place. He shed so many tears, that they created a lake called Indra-kund on the opposite side of parikrama path. Doka-dauji Temple can be seen from the both sides of the Hill. Surabhi-kund This kund, filled with sweet water lies on the left side of the parikram path. It was created by heavenly Surabhi cow, brought by Indra from Brahmaloka, to pacify Krisna after Indra realized his mistake.... ...Surabhi came forward to Krisna with the milk in her udder and requested Krisna to forgive Indra. Only then Krisna was appeased... ...Later out of greed to have darsan of Sri Krisna's lila, Surabhi resided at this place for the duration of Krisna's manifest vraja-lila. Maharaja Vajranabha built this Surabhi-kund in her memory... ...Similarly as Indra was forgiven, by taking bath and performing acaman at Surabhi-kund, all ones aparadhas (offences) are forgiven by taking bath here... ...and Vraja-sevika simply cannot miss such an opportunity… Surabhi-kund was recently nicely repaired. Kadamba-vana... ...with the cows resting in shadow. Thereafter we are passing along Rudra-kund on our left side little futher away from the road. Here Mahadeva (Siva) became so absorbed in meditation on Krisna's lilas, that he began to weep... ...Rudana means "tears" and this kund is sometimes called Rudana-kund, since it was created by Rudra's tears. Siva Temple at this place is called Bole Baba Mandir. Siva-linga in the shrine. There is also greater lake at this place surrounding Rudra-kund named after one of Krisna's friends called Hariju-kund. It is said that here Radha and Krisna enjoy bathing together. Nearby there is Airavata-kund created by Indra's elephant Airavata, who brought water of celestial Ganga in his trunk and stored it here for the bathing ceremony of Sri Krisna at Govinda-kund. Just before Jatipur there are plenty of samadhis. Jatipur is named after Madhavendra Puri, who was sannyasi (yati or jati) and who used to reside here. It was here at Jatipur that he performed abhisek and annakuta festival for Sri Nathji. Mukharavinda Here is another Mukharavinda or lotus mouth of Govardhan. This particular Mukharavinda is accepted by the Vallabha-sampradaya who manage the temple of Gopalaji. The same sampradaya is also looking after the original Gopala Deity known as Sri Nathji at Nathdwar in Rajasthan... ...Six Gosvamis had very good relationships with Sri Vitthalacarya, the son of Vallabhacarya and they have entrusted the responsibility of the seva to the sons of Sri Vallabhacarya... ...Vitthalanatha's samadhi and Vallabhacarya's bhaitaka (sitting place) are nearby. Dandavat-sila It is said that anyone who circumambulate this Govardhana-sila for seven times and offers full dandavats will be relieved of all offences that may have been committed during parikrama... ...It is also said that the priests who serve in the temples on top of the Govardhan Hill come here to rid themselves of offences they may have committed for having climbed on the sacred hill. Since we have unintentionally stepped on many stones around Govardhan on our way we had happily circumambulated the sila. Vilachu-kund On our left side further away from the road we have just passed by Vilachu-kund. Once Srimati Radharani lost Her anklebell here... ...She was searching for it when Krisna suddenly appeared and asked Her jokingly, if She was looking for His flute that had been lost. Radharani asked Krisna not to joke, but to help Her find the lost anklet... ...Krisna persisted in joking and Radharani became angry. In order to pacify Her, Krisna started to dig up the earth with his bare hands. To Radharani's amazement He dug up all types of anklebells, some gold, some silver, besides all kinds of priceless gems... ...Krisna than smiled an asked Radharani which one belonged to Her. Feeling great happiness, Radha and Krisna embraced one another. Beautiful tamal and kadamba on the bank of Vilachu-kund. To get to the Vilachu-kund one has to go from the parikram road into the fields... Just between this place... ...and ancient Laksmi-Narayan Temple. As we are approaching Govardhan town... ...Giriraj again disappears from our sight. After going through Govardhan town for the second time we can see Manasi-ganga, this time from the other side of parikrama road. On the opposite side of Manasi-ganga we are passing on our left side by Sakhi-sthali (Kadamba-khandi), where Candravali used to live with her 64 sakhis. Within this village is a lake known as Lilavati-kund (Sakhi-kund), which was dug by the girlfriends of Candravali. There is always transcendental competition going on between Radharani and Candravali to gain Krisna's attention. Out of all gopis, eight (asta-sakhis) are prominent. Out of them, two are even more prominent: Radharani and Candravali and out of them Radharani is the most prominent and dearly beloved by Sri Krisna. Srila Rupa Gosvami has explained that Candravali expands herself to became Rukmini in the Dvaraka-lila and gopis headed by Candravali expand themselves to become the queens headed by Rukmini. To ordinary people, this competition of gopis is most confusing. One day a brajavasi came to Raghunath das Gosvami who was doing his bhajana on the banks of Radha-kund and brought him some buttermilk. Raghunath asked him from where he had got it and brajavasi joyfully said: "I brought it form Sakhi-sthali." Hearing this Raghunath angrily ordered brajavasi to leave... ...Brajavasi could not understand Raghunatha's mood and fled. Raghunath das Gosvami is an intimate maidservant in Srimati Radharani's own group (svapaksa) and just hearing about the place of Candravali (Radharani's rival) made him act in this way. Uddhava-kund This kund is situated exactly west of Kusuma-sarovara. Skanda-purana quoted in Srimad-Bhagavatam Mahatmya, gives a very interesting description of this place. Vajranabha Maharaja manifested Uddhava-kund under the guidance of Sandilya and other risis. Uddhava always resides here as a grass and shrubs in order to be sprinkled by the foot-dust of gopis. After the disappearance of Lord Krisna, His queens in Dvaraka were greatly afflicted by sorrow. Once, Vajranabha came here with them and together they performed a very loud snakirtana. In that maha-sankirtana, all the parikaras (associates) of Krisna started to appear one by one. All of them joined the kirtan and Arjuna began to dance and play mridanga... ...Suddenly, maha-bhagavata Uddhava emerged from the grass and he also became immersed in dancing. How could Krisna now remain behind when this maha-sankirtana was taking place? Krisna along with Radharani and other sakhis appeared and after some time again disappeared. Uddhava thus pacified the queens at this place. The Deities in the temple at Uddhava-kund are believed to have been installed five thousands years ago by Vajranabha. On the horizon we can see the towers of Kusuma-sarovara's monuments on the opposite side of Govardhana-parikrama road, indicating that we are getting close to the end of our parikrama. Pilgrims performing parikrama proceed along the path until they arrive at Sri Radha-kund, where our journey around Govardhan Hill ends. "Jaya Radha-Madhava, kunja bihari, Gopijana-vallabha girivara-dhari..." Radha-kund is the most dear place of Radharani, because it is here, in the groves surrounding Her sacred bathing pool, that She enjoys the most intimate loving exchanges with Sri Krisna. Syama-kund (further away) and Radha-kund are eyes of the Govardhan Hill. Krisnadas Kaviraj Gosvami has mentioned that anyone who under the guidance of gopis bathes in the sacred waters of Radha-kund even once in his life, will be blessed by Lord Krisna to achieve the same mood of ecstatic love as that of Srimati Radharani. In order to actually enter Radha-kund, one must be above the bodily concept and completely free from all offences. No frivolous splashing in the sacred waters, no material consciousness. Sometimes it may be better to take only three drops on ones head since that is as good as taking bath. Some of the residents of Radha-kund can be seen sitting by the water and with the help of lota (cup) taking its water and pouring it on themselves, not daring to touch the sacred kund with their feet. Radha-kund is considered liquid form (prema svarupa) of Srimati Radharani. To achieve the actual darsan of Radha-kund is exactly the same as having darsan of Srimati Radharani Herself. The places and pastimes of Radha-kund are described in separate article. And it is definitively worth to read it... "This attractive place is surrounded by various kinds of trees - kadambas, rows of campakas, excellent new asokas, numerous mango trees, punnagas, bakulas, lavangas and malati creepers. It is the best of all places, where the two ponds of Radha and Madhava meet along one edge. May I find shelter here, at the favorite place of the two lover's pleasure pastimes." (Vraja-vilasa-stava 52, Raghunath das Gosvami) "May very fragrant Radha-kund, on the shore of which, in a pleasant courtyard Queen Radha and Her friends sweetly joke with Lord Krishna, the moon of Vraja, be my shelter." (Raghunath das Gosvami) "May very fragrant Radha-kund, where the passionate divine couple daily plays with Their passionate friends in the charming lotus scented water, be my shelter." (Raghunath das Gosvami) "May the left arm of Sri Krisna, whose eyes are like the petals of a lotus flower, always protect you. With His left arm He raised Govardhan Hill as if it were a toy." Bhakti-rasamrita-sindhu 2.1.62 "O my friends, this Giriraj is the topmost among Sri Hari's servants and is absorbed in supreme bliss, always being touched by Sri Balarama and Sri Krisna's lotus feet. Giriraja serves and satisfies Sri Krisna, Balarama and cowherd boys and the cows by providing them with water from his pure sarovaras, lush grass, fruits, roots and various minerals like gairika." Srimad-Bhagavatam 10.21.18

Govardhan Hill is situated some 20 km west of Mathura. It is one of the most frequently visited places in Vraja-mandala. It is not surprising because from the time of Sri Krisna's pastimes 5000 years ago, only three things remained as they were: dust of Vrindavan, Yamuna River and Govardhan Hill. Giriraj (another name of Govardhan) is the best of Krisna's servants because it supplies Krisna, Balarama and cowherd boys fresh grass for their cows, fruits, roots, minerals and beautiful scenery for their wonderful pastimes. The Appearance of Govardhan in Vraja It is said in the Adivaraha-purana, that during the advent of Ramacandra, the monkeys and bears brought large rocks and stones from many places to construct a bridge to Lanka. Hanuman was carrying Govardhan to the ocean, having uprooted him from Uttarancala, when he heard a divine sound that announced: "The bridge is now complete and no more rocks are required..." ...Hearing this Hanumanji became sad and put Giriraj down. Giriraj also became very unhappy and said to Hanumanji: "You have deprived me of the touch of Sri Rama's lotus feet," and he was ready to curse him. But Hanumanji replied: "Please forgive me. In the next Dvapara-yuga, your desire will be fulfilled... ...Svayam Bhagavan, Sri Krisna will stop the worship of Indra and worship you instead." Saying this Hanumanji leapt into the air and arrived at Sri Ramacandra's side. Lord Rama declared: "All those rocks which have been assembled to build the bridge, have been delivered by the touch of My feet. But I shall fulfill the desire of Govardhan by holding him on My hand and make him famous as the best Haridas." The Garga-samhita relates different story from a different kalpa: Pulatsya Muni once reached Dronacala Hill. Govardhan, the son of Dronacala, was very beautiful, fragrant, smooth and full of green trees and creepers. Muni desired to bring him to his residence in Kasi, because there was no such a hill around. He asked Dronacala to give him Govardhan so that he can perform his sahdana-bhajan peacefully on beautiful Govardhan in Kasi... ...Dronacala could not refuse, fearing the curse of the Muni, but at the same time did not wanted to loose his beloved son. But Govardhan agreed to go under one condition: If Pulatsya will put him down somewhere on the way, he will not go further and remain there. The Risi accepted his condition and by his mystic power raised him on his palm and proceeded to Kasi... ...As they reached Vraja, thoughts of Krisna entered Govardhan's mind and he became very heavy. The Risi could no longer carry him and was forced to put him down for refreshment and answer the call of nature. After the Risi took bath, ate something and rested, he tried to lift him again and continue his journey. But Govardhan refused. The Risi could not move him even when he employed all his power and finally, in great anger, cursed him saying: "You will diminish in size of one sesame seed every day." Govardhan accepted the curse, knowing that Krisna's lilas are near, but in fact diminishes every day since than... ...But who can say whether this is due to the Risi's curse or due to separation from his Lord Sri Krisna. Govardhan Hill was about 3 km high 5000 years ago . Presently at its highest point the hill is just 25 m high and 11 km long. Govardhan Hill is said to resemble a peacock. Radha-kund and Syama-kund are his eyes, Manasi-Ganga and Govardhan town his waist and the Apsara-kund and Nava-kund is the tail (punch). 59. Airavata-kund 60. Samadhis 61. Mukharavinda, Vitthala's samadhi 62. Dandavat-sila 63. Jatipur village 64. Gulala-kund 65. Gantholi 66. Vilachu-kund 67. Sakhi-sthali 68. Nima Gaon 69. Uddhava-kund 70. Siva-khari 71. Radha-Kunjabihari Gaudiya Math Govardhan 1. Radha-kund 2. Syama-kund 3. Lalita-kund 4. Mukhara 5. Kusuma-sarovara 6. Uddhava Temple 7. Ashoka-vana 8. Narada-kund 9. Ratna-kund 10. Rasa-sthali 11. Ratna-simhasan 12. Krisna's footprint 13. Gval-pokhara 14. Sant Nivas 15. Jugal-kund 16. Kilola-kund 17. Panca-tirtha-kund 18. Mukharavinda 19. Cakra-tirtha (Cakaleswara, bhajan-kutir of Sanatana Gosvami) 20. Manasi-ganga 21. Brahma-kund 22. Manasidevi Temple 23. Harideva Temple 24. Govardhan Town 25. Rinamocan-kund 26. Dana-gati Giriraj Mandir 27. Radharani's footprint 28. Laksmi-Narayan Temple 29. Dani-raja Temple 30. Temple 31. Papamocan-kund 32. Danivartan-kund 33. Candra-sarovara 34. Parasauli 35. Gauri-kund 36. Aniyor village 37. Gopal Raj Temple 38. Siva Temple 39. Balarama (Dauji) Temple 40. Sankarsana-kund 41. Gopala-prakata sthali 42. Govinda-kund 43. Nipa-kund, Radha-Govinda Temple 44. Madhavendra Puri's bhajan-kutir, Indra-tila 45. Doka-dauji Temple 46. Balarama-mukut sila 47. Nrsimha Temple 48. Nava-kund 49. Apsara-kund 50. Puncharika Lautha Baba Temple 51. Syama-dhaka 52. Mani-kandali Cave 53. Nathji Temple 54. Airavata's footprint 55. Indra-puja 56. Indra-kund 57. Surabhi-kund 58. Rudra-kund, Hariju-kund On the way to Govardhan on Delhi-Agra road is a village called Chatikara where Nanda Maharaja stayed for some time while traveling from Gokula to Nandagram. Today we can see there a really interesting road sign... Half way there we pass by the biggest banyan tree in whole Vraja. Govardhan-parikram (circumambulating of Govardhan Hill) should traditionally begin near Manasi-ganga, on the waist of Govardhan. But riksas from Vrindavan will usually take you to the crossing near Radha-kund and most devotees start their parikrama from there. Kusuma-sarovara A 25-minute walk from Radha-kund is Kusuma-sarovara, our first stop. Kusuma means "flower," and kusuma-vana is a forest of flowers. Srimati Radhika used to come here on the pretext of picking flowers with her girlfriends, but Her real intent was to meet Sri Krisna, with whom She would have love-quarrels (keli-kalada) and sarcastic exchanges full of rasa. Many pastimes took place here at Kusuma-sarovara: One morning, Srimati Radhika and Her sakhis arrived on the bank of the lake to pick the fragrant flowers that bloomed here in abundance. Seeing a branch full of flowers, She pulled it down with one hand and started to pick flowers with the other... ...Knowing that Srimati Radharani was coming, playful Krisna had climbed that tree and had stationed Himself on that very branch. Using all His weight to push that branch down, He had hidden Himself so that Srimati Radharani would not see Him... ...Radharani became absorbed in picking flowers from that branch when Krisna suddenly shifted to another branch. At once the first branch sprung up, lifting Srimati Radharani with it... ...Radhika cried out for help and Sri Krisna immediately leapt from the tree and caught the hanging Srimati Radharani in His arms... ...Seeing this, the sakhis began clapping and laughing loudly, but Radhika began to scold Him. Tortoises living in the Kusuma-sarovara are said to be the great sages, living for centuries in their bodies and meditating on the divine pastimes of Radha and Krisna. Some say that if you feed tortoise you will became healthy. Nowadays, it is a good place to take bath and even swim as this is the best swimming spot in the Vraja area. Furthermore, where in the whole world one can get the following benediction: "Anyone who bathes in sanctified waters of this lake becomes eligible to witness that ambrosial eightfold pastimes (asta-kaliya-lila) of Sri Sri Radha and Krisna." The present ghatas were built by Javaraha Singh, the Maharaja of Bharatpur, who looted the treasury of Delhi in 1767 and with that money built beautiful ghatas and sandstone monuments... ...To the west of Sarovara is the tomb of his father, Raja Surajamala, one of the most famous Jat warriors in India's history, with the tombs of his two queens. The Raja as built it mostly for the glorification of his family, as you can see on the wall paintings... ...Bigger paintings are showing events from the history of his family and smaller ones are depicting the pastimes of Sri Krisna. ...The pure devotional atmosphere has been ruined to some extend, but the wise man will take the milk part, leaving the water, as swan (hansa) is capable of doing... It is said that Astavakra Muni left his body on the bank of Kusuma-sarovara, while doing penances on its banks and waiting for the appearance of Radha and Krisna. The small Siva-linga temple on the western bank of the kund marks the spot, where he gave up his body after being blessed with Their divine darsan. During Lord Chaitanya's times this place was known as Sumanah-sarovara. It is stated in Caitanya-caritamrita, that Sri Caitanya also took bath there. Nearby is the temple of Dauji. Also at this place is a temple dedicated to Uddhava. This temple was established by Krishna's great-grandson about 4,800 years ago. It is a peaceful place. Uddhava is the cousin of Lord Krisna. He is the son of Vasudeva's brother and almost the same age as Krisna. His body resembles Krisna's body almost exactly... ...After delivering Krisna's message to the gopis, Uddhava realized their exalted position and prayed: "Let me be fortunate enough to be one of the bushes, creepers or herbs in Vrindavan, because the gopis trample them and bless them with the dust of their feet." Uddhava remains there in the form of the grass known as gulma-lata. Ashoka-lata, a kunja (forest grove) is also on the bank of Kusuma-sarovara. This is where Krisna braided Srimati Radharani's hair. This pastimes is described by Krisnadas Kaviraj Gosvami in Govida-lilamrita. There is small temple on the left of Kusuma-sarovara, by the road, that marks the place where Krisna decorated Radharani's hair. Samadhi further on the way. Narada-kund About four hundred meters little off the road south-east of Kusuma-sarovara is Narada-kund. After Narada Muni heard the glories of supreme gopi-bhava from the mouth of Vrindadevi, a strong desire to serve Radha and Krisna in the form of gopi arose in his heart. He received a gopala-mantra from Brahma and begin his sadhana-bhajana... ...After performing worship for many yugas Yogamaya Paurnamasi dipped Naradaji in Kusuma-sarovara and he received a body of the gopi... ...Thereafter he obtained the qualification to perform seva of the Divine Couple... ...Seeing Narada there in the form of a gopi, Sri Krishna requested him to stay at Narada-vana and write bhakti-sastras... ...Although Narada had been cursed by Daksa not to be able to stay in one place, Krisna informed Narada that because Vrindavan-dhama is not a part of the material world, the curse of Daksa would not apply here... ..After another bath in Kusuma-sarovara, he changed back to he male form and returned to this place, where he wrote the famous treatise on devotional service known as the Narada-bhakti-sutra. There is a small temple of Narada Muni with friendly pujaris. Some say that Narada must have also instructed Prahlada Maharaja here in the womb of his mother, since it is said that he took her to his ashram and instructed little Prahlada in her womb for some time. In any other place it would not be possible for Narada to stay for some time and it is concluded that he must have done it here, in Vraja, where Daksa's curse had no effect. It is a highly beneficial to have darsan of this Narada-kund. Syama-kutir and Ratna-simhasana Situated in the forest of Syama-vana (black forest) there is a very beautiful place known as Syama-kutir. This area is also known as Ratna-simhasana, because there used to be a fabulous throne here, made entirely from precious gems like diamonds, rubies and sapphires. Srimati Radharani, the queen of Vraja, used to sit on this Ratna-simhasana, surrounded by thousands of Her girlfriends. Upon request, the friendly pujaris will show you the small room inside the building that mark the actual place of Ratna-simhasana. On the full moon day after Siva-caturdasi (Siva-ratri), Sri Krisna and Sri Balarama were playing Holi with the gopis using syringes to squirt each other with water of many colors... ...The sweet music and melodious ragas filled the air and Srimati Radhika sat down on the nearby Ratna-simhasana throne. At this time servant of Kuvera named Sankhacuda, who considered Bhagavan Sri Krisna to be an ordinary human being, tried to abduct these extremely beautiful gopis... ...In voices of distress, they started to call out: "Krisna, Krisna". Sri Krisna ran to the call of the gopis with great speed and killed Sankhacuda with His fist... ...He took the jewel from the demon's forehead and gave it to Sri Balarama, who sent it to Srimati Radharani through Dhanistha... ...Ratna-kund (lake) is said to mark the spot where the demon Sankhacuda (Sankhasura) carried off Radharani, who was sitting on jeweled throne. Rasa-sthali The concrete circle with a seal on it is the place where Krisna and gopis would dance. Syama-kutir is situated amidst thick clusters of trees near Ratna-simhasana... ...Here Sri Syamasundara smeared His body with syama-colored musk, dressed Himself in syama-colored clothes and ornaments and entered a syama-colored nikunja... ...Even the gopis were not able to recognize Him. Syama of course means "black" or "dark". It is really one of the most beautiful spots on Govardhana-parikrama. Interestingly enough, the whole area of rasa-dance pastimes is even today protected by fence-like barrier of cactuses. This can be seen on enlarged image behind the tree. A bhajani-sila, which emits sweet sound when tapped, is nearby. Syama-kutir also marks the spot where Govardhan Hill first start to appear above the ground. From this point on Govardhan Hill actually begins to rise until it reaches its highest point just before Aniyor village. This place is famous, because the actual lotus footprint of Lord Krisna is impressed upon one of the rocks of Govardhan Hill. It is said that even the rock of Govardhan Hill began to melt when Krisna played His flute... ...and that is how this footprint came to be. Little further Govardhan is emerging even more from the ground... ...and beautiful cows and bulls reminds us of Krisna's pastimes... ...as we approach one of the many places near Govardhan where cowherd boys used eat with Krisna. Gval-pokhara (Gopal-kund) Gval or gowala means cowherd boy and pokhara means pool or kund. After an early lunch at Gval-pokhara, Krisna would manage to slip away from the company of the cowherd boys and head off to Radha-kund where he would meet with Srimati Radharani and the gopis. The pilgrims on the way... ...can see different ways of worship of Govardhan Hill. Simple ones... ...and of course more sophisticated ones (govardhana-silas). On our way (further away on the left side of the parikrama road and the places at the picture) we can see Jugal-kund, where Nanda Maharaja and the cowherd men would stay on their way from Gokula to Nandagram and Kilola-kund (Kalenvana) where Krisna would play ball with His cowherd friends and enjoy water pastimes with the gopis. Passing by the ear of Govardhan we proceed to the Govardhan town... Just as one enters the town of Govardhan, on the right side of the road, is beautiful palace built by the kings of Bharatapura. ...At the side of this palace it is the Panca-tirtha-kund, which contains the water of five (panca) holy rivers: Narmada, Gomati, Sarayu, Kanchi and Vetri... ...The Building in front is known as the Bharatpur Raja's Chatri. ...it is generally not open to the public. Manasi-ganga Mana means "mind" and Ganga refers to the Ganges River. Krisna was once tending the cows with the cowherd boys. Demon Vatsasura came in disguise as a calf and wanted to kill Krisna. Krisna however was aware of him, took him by his hind legs, whipped him around and threw him up into a tree... ...Because Krisna killed a demon in the shape of a calf, the cowherd boys asked Him to take bath in Ganga in order to purify Himself. Not wanting to leave Vraja, Krisna informed cowherd boys that He would call the river Ganges to appear in Vraja. Krishna entered into meditation and Ganges manifested in front of Him in the form of Manasi-ganga. On another occasion Nanda and Yasoda, hearing of the glories of the Ganges river, had a desire to bathe in it. They heard how Garuda captured a snake and on his way accidentally touched his tail in Ganga's waters. The snake was transformed into four armed form of Vaikuntha resident and amazed Garuda took him right there... ...Seeing the arrangements made for the journey, Krisna informed Nanda and Yasoda that there is no need to go out of the Vraja, since all holy places are present there... ...When Krisna arrived with Nanda, Yasoda and others on the shore of Manasi-ganga, Ganga-Mata personified appeared from the water and offered prayers to the Lord. When the inhabitants of Vrindavan saw Ganga, they offered obeisances to her and took bath in her waters. Many pastimes of Krisna and gopis took place on Manasi-ganga and most famous is the one where Krisna disguised as an old boatman made gopis to feed Him with sweets and milk, massage His legs and arms to continue rowing and finally throw all their pots, jewels and bracelets to the water to prevent heavy boat from sinking... ...When He suggested that the boat is still too heavy and they should sacrifice their clothes and threw them also in the water, the gopis refused, but when He arranged for a storm and embraced Radharani for protection, He was finally exposed. Chakra-tirtha, which was created by the Sudarsana-chakra, is embedded in the northern bank of Manasi-ganga. The temple of Chakaleswar Siva-linga is at Manasi-ganga. It is one of the five presiding Siva-lingas worshiped in Vrindavan. There are many interesting places around Manasi-ganga. One of them is bhajan-kutir of Sanatana Gosvami. Sanatana Gosvami would perform Govardhana-parikrama as his daily vow... ... When Sanatana was thinking about moving from this place because of mosquitoes, Siva (Chakaleswar) disguised as a brahmana came to told him that mosquitoes would no longer disturb him. Even now this place is almost free from mosquitoes. Deity of Nanda Maharaja in nearby Temple... Mukharavinda Temple There are two silas in this temple. One sila is marked with the outline of Krishna's crown (Mukut-sila)... ... According to Bhaktisiddhanta Maharaja the other sila is the mouth of Govardhan (Mukharavinda-sila). Pilgrims pour a lot of milk every day to this Govardhana-sila. Nearby Brahma-kundwas formed by the water that was collected after Lord Brahma bathed Lord Krishna. This is where Lord Brahma offered his prayers after he took the cowherd boys away and hid them to test the power of Krishna. It is located on the southern bank of Manasi-ganga. Manasi-devi Temple is located on the bank of Brahma-kund. Manasi-devi is the presiding deity of Manasi-ganga, and one of the four main goddesses of Vraja-dhama. The others are Vrindadevi, in Kamavan; Yogamaya Devi in Vrindavan; and Pataleswari Devi in Mathura. The Harideva Temple, near Manasi-ganga, was established by Krishna's great-grandson 4,800 years ago. Harideva is one of the four presiding Deities of Vrindavan. The temple is a two-minute walk from the southern bank of Manasi-ganga. The temple was built by King Bhagandas of Jaipur, whose son, Rajaman Singh, built the Govindaji Temple in the sixteenth century during the reign of Emperor Akbar. The original Deity of Harideva was moved to the town of Rajdhani near Kanpur when Aurangzeb sent his soldiers to destroy the Deities and temples of Vraja. But the Deity is no longer in Rajdhani. One day Srimati Radharani and the gopis were waiting for Krisna to come and meet them. As they were waiting, the gopis started to feel intense separation from Krisna and they began to chant: "Harideva, Harideva, Harideva!" over and over again and their feeling intensified to the point of almost giving up their lives. Suddenly Krisna appeared in this beautiful Deity form of seven-year-old boy holding Govardhan Hill in His left hand and flute in the other. The ecstasy of Radharani and the gopis knew no bounds. Since than Radharani and gopis would come here every day and worshiped Govardhana-natha Harideva with many offerings. „Mad with ecstatic love, the Lord came to the village known as Govardhan. It was there that He saw the Deity of Harideva and offered His obeisances... ...than He began to dance before the Deity. Hearing of the Lord's wonderful activities, all people came to see Him...” Caitanya-caritamrita 18.17.20 Sri Harideva is presiding Deity of Giriraj-Govardhan and no Govardhana-parikrama is complete without His darsan. Manasi-ganga is traditionally the starting and ending point of the Govardhana-parikrama. Therefore after bathing in Manasi-ganga and taking darsan of Harideva, we went to the parikrama path and continued to the town through the market... ...where we bought few delicious samosas and sweets. This shop is really famous for their savories and sweets. Although we were very careful about not eating and drinking in unknown places, we made exception here. We have reached the crossing of Mathura road and the Laksmi-Narayana Temple on our left. This is one of the 108 Divya Desam Temples mentioned by the Alwars as being one of the most important temples in India. Govardhan at Dana-gati. At Dana-gati, where once used to be just a narrow pass used by gopis when they wanted to take their milk products to the other side of Govardhan... ...and Krisna blocked their way and demanded a tax... ...we have also seen Baba doing dandavats around Govardhan... ...and manufacturing of tulasi japa beads. Than we have stayed for some time on the opposite side near Radharani's footprints... ...listened to krsna-katha... ...from different speakers... ...and sang kirtans on our way. This beautiful property was formerly owned by Maharaja Chattarpur from Madhya Pradesh... ...who was worshiping a beautiful Govardhana-sila in a small shrine. When devotees moved in, they continued the worship of this Deity. During digging of large hole for the underground water tank, the devotees discovered a Govardhana-sila that turned out to be exactly the same size and shape as the existing Krisna-sila... ...this sila was whitish in color and now it is worshiped as Balarama at Krisna's side. From the temple roof there is a good view of Dani-raja Temple on the top of the Hill dedicated to Krisna's tax pastime... ...The temple has been abandoned and the priests have moved the worship to a new temple of Dana-gati Giriraj Mandir at the crossing of Mathura road... ...Since devotes from gaudiya-vaisnava sampradaya never step on Govardhan Hill as Sri Caitanya taught, the priests maybe wanted Deity to move down to be visited by more devotees. Or maybe there is some other reason... Dana-gati (where Krisna's tax pastimes took place) is a busy place, and therefore we will listen to the Krsna's tax pastimes on our way to Danivartan-kund. Once on the bank of Govinda-kund, Sri Bhaguri Risi was performing yajna for the pleasure of Supreme Lord. From the other side of Dana-gati, Srimati Radhika and Her sakhis were bringing yogurt, milk, butter, rabadi and many other kinds of milk-sweets... ...Krisna with Subala, Madhumangala and other boys obstructed the path and forcibly demanded toll. Sakhas and gopis began to taunt each other with sarcastic remarks. Krisna standing in tribanga form asked: "What are you carrying?" "Milk, yogurt and butter for the yajna of Bhaguri Risi," gopis replied. Madhumangala promptly said: "Quickly pay the dana (tax) and move on..." ...Lalita, filled with sarcasm, asked, "What dana? We have never paid any dana before." But Krisna insisted: "You can pass only after paying dana." Radharani replied: "Since when you have become dani here? Did you inherited this place from your father?" "Don't be so insolent! I am Vrindavanesvara, the ruler of Vrindavan!" "How is that?" "Vrinda is My wedded wife. The property of the wife is also property of the husband. Vrindavan is the kingdom of Vrindadevi, therefore it is My kingdom as well." "Accha?" Lalita answered haughtily. "We have never heard anything about this. Let us see what Vrindadevi says." She turned towards Vrindadevi and smilingly asked: "Vrinde! Is this 'black one' your husband?" Vrinda replied: "Never! I have never seen this guy. This is my kingdom and I have handled it to Vrindavanesvari Srimati Radhika." All the sakhis burst out laughing and Sri Krisna became embarrassed. But He still demanded dana to be paid. After this prema-kalaha, or love quarrel, the gopis exchanged dan of prema at Danivartan-kund. Danivartan-kund (Dana-nivartana-kunda) Once when Radharani and Her girlfriends were at Radha-kund, one of the Radharani's pet parrots informed Her of a great sacrifice being conducted at Govinda-kund. Taking bath and dressing very nicely, Radharani and all Her girlfriends left Govinda-kund, carrying golden pots of milk products on their heads... ...Meanwhile, Krisna's pet parrot told Him, that Srimati Radharani was proceeding towards Govinda-kund along with Her girlfriends. When Radharani and the gopis arrived, Krisna challenged them to stop and pay the tax: "You are regularly using this pathway to sell your milk products but you never ever pay the tax!" ...He told Radharani that each of Her assistants must pay a handful of diamond as a tax and by His clever use of words the argument turned erotic, suggesting that Radharani must pay extra tax for all the beautiful parts of her body. Radharani became angry and walked away, but Krisna forcibly stopped Her... ...He told Radharani that She could go, but Lalita must stay as a hostage to make sure they would return to pay tax. Lalita in furry threatened them by calling mother Yasoda and Radharani's mother in law Jatila. Finally Nandimukhi, Radharani's close companion, convinced Krisna to release Radharani, because Her reputation as a chaste lady would be ruined and assured Him, that gopis would return next day to this kund to pay tax in full... ...However, the gopis were feeling very angry at Krisna for threatening them in this way. Next day, Lalita, Visakha and hundreds of gopis hid themselves around this lake. When Krisna arrived with a few cowherd boys, the gopis pounced at them, beat them, tied them up to the tree and humiliated them in various ways... ...Lalita than demanded that Krisna pay tax to Srimati Radharani, the queen of Vrindavan, because His cows were eating the grass of Her forests. Lalita than brought Radhika and forced Krisna to bow down to Her lotus feet, ask forgiveness and accept Her as the queen of Vrindavan. So this is the lake (kund) where tax (dani) have been returned (nivartana). The various tax pastimes went on almost daily because due to the influence of Yogamaya, the gopis would forget the previous days episode. They are described in Dana-keli-cintamani by Raghunath das Gosvami, Dana-keli-kamudhi by Sanatan Gosvami and other vaisnava literature. "When Sri Caitanya saw Govardhana Hill, He immediately offered obeisances, falling down on the ground like the rod. He embraced one piece of the rock from Govardhana Hill and become mad. Just by seeing Govardhan hill Sri Caitanya became ecstatic with love for Krisna. While dancing and dancing, He recited the verse from the Srimad-Bhagavatam..." Caitanya-caritamrita Govardhana-lila Once on seeing His father, Nanda Baba, and all the inhabitants of Vrindavan collecting various items for the annual Indra-puja, Sri Krisna convinced them to stop and worship Govardhana Hill instead. Krisna explained that Govardhan provides them with everything they need for living and by worshiping this sacred hill all good fortune would automatically come to them... ...Following Krisna's advice, brajavasis cooked thousands of wonderful preparations and placed them here, in area between Danivartan-kund and Aniyor village. There were literally thousands of hills made of samosas, kacoris, rice, halva, puris, sweetballs, lakes of subjis, sweet rice and innumerable other preparations for the pleasure of Govardhan Hill... ...When puja was to began , Krisna suddenly expanded Himself into gigantic body of Giriraj. He declared that He is Govardhan Himself and started to eat all the preparations made by brajavasis. He dunked the water from various kundas and still unsatisfied started to call: "Aniyor! Aniyor! (Bring me more! Bring me more!)" The village near Sankarsana-kund is until now called Aniyor... ...Gigantic Govardhan finished all that was prepared and still unsatisfied called: "Aniyor! Aniyor!" Brajavasis became little worried: "We are poor villagers, whatever we had, we have presented before you! Please be satisfied with that." "Aniyor! Aniyor!" Than somebody suggested, that the Supreme Lord will be satisfied with tulasi leaves and water form the Ganges... ...They gave him tulasi leaves and when He dunked Manasi-ganga, Kusuma-sarovara and other kundas, He finally exclaimed: "Tripto 'smi! Tripto 'smi! (Now I am satisfied! Now I am satisfied!)" and wiped His hands and mouth with his cloth. He told brajavasis to ask for a boon. They requested for only one: "May this lala of ours always remain happy and live a very long life." By "lala" they of course meant non other than Sri Krisna... ...When the four handed form of Giriraj disappeared, Krisna told brajavasis: "Did you ever had a darsan of Lord Indra? And Giriraj is very kind, He came personally to see you. He fulfills everyone's desires." After Govardhana-puja all the brajavasis became very satisfied and felt that their lives were successful. Nanda Maharaja called brahmanas to perform huge yajna (sacrifice) and all the demigods attended. All except Indra... ...Indra felt insulted and thought how to teach a lesson to those cowherds. Under the influence of false pride he became enraged and sent samvartaka clouds to Vrindavan. Samvartaka are the clouds that are used at the end of each kalpa to destroy the whole cosmic manifestation. Torrents of rain, thunder, lighting and sever wind attacked Vrindavan and created a havoc... ...Terrified brajavasis approached Sri Krisna for protection. With his left hand Krisna lifted Govardhan Hill and held it like an umbrella over the whole Vrindavan. For seven days they remained sheltered by Govardhan and they were simply astonished how Krisna may had lifted the whole mountain as easy as child lifts the mushroom... ...When Indra saw that a small little boy holds the whole hill on the little finger of His left hand, he was baffled by His mystic power and called the clouds back. The rain stopped, sky was cleared and Krisna asked the brajavasis to return to their homes. Than He gently placed Govardhan at the place where it was before. Nanda Baba, mother Yasoda and boys embraced Krisna and gopis began to sing beautiful songs about Him... ...Indra realized his mistake and went to his guru for advice. "This is serious offence, I cannot help you! But you may try to see Lord Brahma and ask him for a Surabhi cow. Krisna is very fond of the cows and Surabhi may persuade Him to forgive you." Indra rushed to Brahmaloka and got the Surabhi from Lord Brahma. Than he came and pleaded Krisna for forgiveness. Krisna stood there, looking at Indra and Indra didn't know, if he is being forgiven... ...Airavata, Indra's elephant, made abhisek of Krisna with the water of celestial Ganga he brought in his trunk, Surabhi poured over Him his milk and offered to him beautiful prayers. The water from this bathing ceremony created the famous Govinda-kund. Than all the demigods came and together they performed puja with golden paraphernalia, jewels and other precious items... ...Lord Brahma coroneted Krisna with golden crown and declared Him to be the real Indra (the king) of all the demigods and living beings. Than the demigods departed. After getting all the calves together, brajavasis returned to Krisna and saw all those golden paraphernalia. They wondered where all those things came from. Nanda Baba became somewhat worried: "I only hope that Krisna didn't steel it somewhere, in some temple. We know he was stealing butter as a small child..." …But Krisna's fatty brahmana friend Madhumangala told them: "Do not worry. When everybody run away I could not. You know I am not so quick. I could not run and I have seen what happened. "First cow came and started to talk to Krisna, than elephant with Ganges water. After while a guy with four head came and started to worship Krisna with all of those golden things. Then another one came... ...He was far out! He had eyes all over his body, and than the one with snakes came, all this far out people came and started to worship Krisna. And after they bathed Krisna, they left just shortly before you came." Krisna's boyfriends didn't know what to think about this funny brahmana boy, but they stopped worrying, picked up those camaras, ghee lamps, conshells and umbrellas, had Krisna seated on the throne and spontaneously started to worship Him like that... ...Krisna began to smile, enjoying their company. Demigods watching the scene and seeing Krisna's beaming smile were struck with wonder, since during their worship, Krisna just officially stood and didn't show much concern. Suddenly the voice from the sky announced: "Nanda Maharaja, you should now coronate your son as the King of the cows and the King of Vraja..." ...Nanda Baba then coroneted Him with all the inhabitants of Vrindavan saying: "Krisna, You are our protector and You have protected the cows of Vrindavan. Therefore, we will call you Govinda". Before Krisna was Gopal (a small cowherd boy) and how, He became Govinda (one who gives pleasure to the cows). Thus Nanda Baba coroneted Krisna and gave him the name Govinda. In memory of Nanda Maharaja's Annakut ceremony, devotees in the temples and in their homes celebrate Govardhan-puja by making Govardhan Hill out of halva. They circumambulate it and hear about Krisna's Govardhan pastimes. The Govardhan made of halva may be huge as this one or small in case of home celebration. Surabhi-vana Surabhi-vana used to be a large forest surrounding Govinda-kund. Surabhi cows were grazing here on the fresh grass. Near Surabhi-vana there is a very old temple of Madan-mohan, where the cowherds bring their herds to rest. Bhajan-kutir of Madhavendra Puri is on the bank of Govinda-kund. "Once, Sri Madhavendra Puri traveled to Vrindavan, where he came upon the hill known as Govardhan. Madhavendra Puri was almost mad in his ecstasy of love of Godhead, and he did not know whether it was day or night. Sometimes he stood up, and sometimes he fell to the ground. He could not discriminate whether he was in a proper place or not. After circumambulating the hill, Madhavendra Puri went to Govinda-kund and took his bath... ...He then sat beneath a tree to take his evening rest. While he was sitting beneath a tree, an unknown cowherd boy came with a pot of milk, placed it before Madhavendra Puri, and, smiling, addressed Him as follows. "Please drink the milk I have brought. Why don't you beg some food to eat? What kind of meditation are you undergoing?" When he saw the beauty of that boy, Madhavendra Puri became very satisfied. Hearing His sweet words, he forgot all hunger and thirst... ...Madhavendra Puri said: "Who are You? Where do You reside? And how did You know that I was fasting?" The boy replied: "Sir, I am a cowherd boy, and I reside in this village. In My village, no one fasts. "In this village a person can beg food from others and thus eat. Some people drink only milk, but if a person does not ask anyone for food, I supply him all his eatables. "The women who come here to take water saw you, and they supplied Me with this milk and sent Me to you." The boy continued: "I must go very soon to milk the cows, but I shall return and take back this milk pot from you." Saying this, the boy left the place... ...Indeed, He suddenly could be seen no more, and Madhavendra Puri's heart was filled with wonder. After drinking the milk, Madhavendra Puri washed the pot and put it aside. He looked toward the path, but the boy never returned. Madhavendra Puri could not sleep. He sat and chanted the Hare Krsna maha-mantra, and at the end of the night he dozed a little, and his external activities stopped. In a dream Madhavendra Puri saw the very same boy. The boy came before him and, holding his hand, took him to a bush in the jungle. The boy showed Madhavendra Puri the bush and said: "I reside in this bush, and because of this I suffer very much from severe cold, rain showers, winds and scorching heat... ..."Please bring the people of the village and get them to take Me out of this bush. Then have them situate Me nicely on top of the hill. "Please construct a temple on top of that hill," the boy continued, "and install Me in that temple. After this, wash Me with large quantities of cold water so that My body may be cleansed. "For many days I have been observing you, and I have been wondering, `When will Madhavendra Puri come here to serve Me?'... ..."I have accepted your service due to your ecstatic love for Me. Thus I shall appear, and by My audience all fallen souls will be delivered. "My name is Gopala. I am the lifter of Govardhan Hill. I was installed by Vajra, and here I am the authority. "When the Mohammedans attacked, the priest who was serving Me hid Me in this bush in the jungle. Then he ran away out of fear of the attack. "Since the priest went away, I have been staying in this bush... ...It is very good that you have come here. Now just remove Me with care." After saying this, the boy disappeared. Then Madhavendra Puri woke up and began to consider his dream. Madhavendra Puri began to lament: "I saw Lord Krisna directly, but I could not recognize Him!" Thus he fell down on the ground in ecstatic love. Madhavendra Puri cried for some time, but then he fixed his mind on executing the order of Gopala. Thus he became tranquil." Caitanya-caritamrita, Madhya 4.21-46 Gopala-prakata sthali (Sringara sthali) This is the actual spot where Srila Madhavendra Puri discovered the beautiful Gopala Deity now known as Sri Nathji. The Deity of Gopal was originally installed by Vajranabha 4800 years ago and it is very special and beautiful... ...After Madhavendra Puri left Vrindavan, two brahmanas from Bengal served the Deity. After time had passed, Raghunath das Gosvami saw that there was a need to find a devotee to serve Gopala. He gave it to Vitthala, the son of Vallabhacarya. Inside Gopala-prakata-sthali. Bhajani-sila behind Gopala-prakata-sthali makes different sounds when tapped on different places. Due to the fear of invaders, Sri Nathji was taken to Nathdwar by Ranaraj Singh of Mewar, in 17th century. Nathji Temple in Nathdwar is said to be the second riches temple in India, after the Balaji temple in Tirupati. The original temple where Madhavendra Puri worshipped Sri Gopala is on the top of the Govardhan Hill. It is called Gopal Raj Temple (the white building above Sankarsana-kund on the picture). Presently, there is a Govardhana-sila worshipped in the temple. Aniyor In the ancient village of Aniyor we can see the Temple of Lord Balarama (Dauji) also known as Sankarsana Mandir. The Deity was installed by Vajranabha... ...Deity is from the black stone and next to Him is smaller Krisna, His younger brother... ...When Aurangzeb sent his troops to destroy Vrindavan's temples, this Deity was hidden in nearby Sankarsana-kund. It is said in Adi-purana that one who takes bath in Sankarsana-kund is freed from the sin of killing the cow. Indra-tila is a small hill at the side of Govinda-kund where Lord Indra, Brahma and other demigods stood during Krisna's abhisek. The hill is surrounded by many buildings and it is very small now. In temple next to Madhavendra's bhajan-kutir on the Govinda-kund there is self manifested pratibhu-murti of Lord Gopala. The worship is managed by Gosvamis of Govindaji Mandir from Jaipur. Radha-Govinda Mandir The Deity of Sri Govindadev in this temple on the banks of Govinda-kund was originally installed by Vajranabha 5000 years ago. Nipa-kund Just behind Radha-Govinda Mandir there is small lake called Nipa-kund. There used to by many kadamba trees on the banks of this kund. Many of their leaves were in the shape of cups. Krisna and the cowherd boys used to take lunch here on the banks of this kund and use the leaves of kadamba trees as cups... ...Once gopis were passing this way and Krisna blocked their way demanding tax. Gopis wanted to go on and threatened Krisna to tell king Kamsa about it. Krisna replied He was not afraid of Kamsa and He would kill him and threw his dead body on Govardhan Hill. Gopis laughed and leaving their pots with milk on the ground, returned home. Krisna then fed the boys with butter and yogurt. Doka-dauji Temple. Dauji means "elder brother". Once Balarama, Krisna's elder brother, was so intently looking at Krisna's movements during rasa-lila, that He turned blackish and the Deity became known as Doka, "staring", Dauji... ... On the left side there is an impression of Lord Balarama's crown (mukut) on a rock known as Balarama-mukut-sila. On the left side of the parikrama-road are many interesting place like Parasauli and Sringara Mandir on the way to Punchari. On the left side of the parikrama road near Sankarsana-kund there is Gauri-kund, where there used to be a Temple of Goddess Gauri, Siva's wife. Vidagdha-madhava-nataka describe an amusing pastime that took place here... ...One day Abhimanyu, the husband of Radharani, decided to bring Her to Mathura to keep Her away form Krisna. He went to Paurnamasi and asked Her for Her blessing to do so. She told him that whatever he had heard were just rumors. She convinced Abhimanyu not to go to Mathura and return home. Abhimanyu then requested Paurnamasi to have Radharani start worshipping Gauridevi... His mother, Jatila, had told him, that Candravali had started worshiping Gauridevi and her husband Govardhana-malla had become very rich. Radharani immediately left for the Gauridevi Temple, but Krisna came and blocked Her path. After a long argument Radha chastised Krisna and went to pick flowers for Gauridevi. Meanwhile Abhimanyu heard that Radha and Krisna were together at Gauri-kund. With his mother Jatila he left there, hoping to catch Radha and Krisna together. Krisna then went to the Temple and dressed up like Goddess Gauri, and stood in front of the deity. Radharani entered the temple and began to worship Goddess... ...Abhimanyu came rushing into the temple. Gauridevi (actually Krisna) then told Abhimanyu that there is a great danger awaiting him. Full of fear Abhimanyu asked the Goddess what the disaster is and she pointed to Vrindadevi to explain it. Vrindadevi then told him that Kamsa plans to cut off his head in two days and offer it to Lord Siva. Radharani then begged Gauridevi to save him. Goddess told Radharani that the benediction She is asking for is not possible to get from her... ...Radharani pleaded saying that She could not live without Her swami (lord). Gauri said that she would help him if Radharani promised that She would never leave Vraja and would always render service to her. Abhimanyu promised Gauridevi that he would never take Radharani away form Vraja and that She would always serve her faithfully. Jatila then praised Radharani having saved Abhimanyu's life. About 2 km away from our way on the left side of Aniyor village we were passing Parasauli. Parasauli is a place where the vasanti rasa-lila of Krisna and His beloved gopis took place. This rasa-dance continued for an entire night of Brahmaji, but it seemed that it was over in only a few moments. The moon in the sky have become stunned upon seeing the dance and was unable to move the whole night. Therefore this place is also called Candra-sarovara ("Lake of the Moon"). In the western corner of the sarovara is Sringara Mandira, where Krisna personally decorated Radharani. Suradas-kuti and samadhi are situated also in this area. Suradas was a natural poet. He was blind, yet he would compose poems with sweet beautiful descriptions of the different srngaras or outfits of Sri Nathji Deity... One day pujari did not dress Sri Nathji at all and Deity remained completely naked. He opened the doors of the altar and asked Suradas to compose a poem describing Deity's sringara. Suradas remained silent for some time and than laughed loudly and to everyone's amazement sang: "Aj bhaya hari nangam naga (Today Sri Hari remained undressed and naked...)" Since we went on Govardhana-parikrama shortly after the monsoon ended, the water blocked our way at Apsara-vana... ...but one helpful village boy helped us to find a way to Apsara-kund and Nava-kund. Punchari - the tail of Govardhan (this time without water) Nava-kund (Navala-kund) Navala means "young" or "ever youthful" and this lake received its name after ever-youthful Sri Krisna. Once Radha and Krisna were absorbed in ecstasy of the rasa dance and than Krisna looked at the beautiful Radharani and simply melted into this lake. Radharani than looked at tribanga-lalita form of Krisna and melted into Apsara-kund. The waters of these two kundas are simply melted forms of Radha-Krisna prema. This kund is sometimes called Punchari-kund, since it is directly at the Punchari (tail) of Govardhan Hill. Narasimha Mandir Near the banks of Nava-kund is a temple with the black stone Deity of Nrsimhadev... ...Upon request, the pujari may lift the Deity's dress to reveal Hiranyakasipu being ripped. Prahlada Maharaja is standing nearby... ...From the top of Narasimha Mandir one can get wonderful view of Apsara-vana, a forest surrounding the tail of Govardhan from the side of Govinda-kund. Apsara-kund When the demigods came bath Lord Krisna, 108 kundas were created by the water form His abhisek. Apsara-kund was created when the seven main Apsaras (heavenly dancing girls) came to perform their abhisek of Lord Krisna. Srimati Radharani is extremely beautiful apsara or transcendental damsel and Apsara-kund received its name after Her. Eternally youthful Nandanandana is right next to Her in the form of Navala-kund. On the bank of Apsara-kund there is Apsara-bihari Temple, Dauji Temple and small Apsara-isvara (Siva-linga) shrine. It is said that twenty four main incarnations of Lord Visnu eternally perform their pastimes on the bank of this kund. Krisna used to come here and for the pleasure of His boyfriends He manifested some of these forms and enjoy His pastimes... ...Once He manifested twelve-armed Visnu form in front of the gopis and Subal took form of Garuda. On another occasion He became Varaha and started to dig the Earth. Than He became Ramacandra and cowherd boy became monkeys. Punchari-ka Lautha Baba (Puncarika-lata Baba) Lautha Baba is one of the Krisna's cowherd boys. One day he cooked nice meal for Krisna and Balarama. Suddenly, Krisna passed by on Akrura's chariot heading to Mathura. Lautha invited Krisna and Balarama for this meal, but Krisna replied: "I am just coming", with the promise that He would return the very next day... ... Since this time Lautha Baba is sitting in this very same spot facing the road and eagerly waiting for Krisna and Balarama to return. He is not eating anything and he waits for Krisna to start eating together. The Deity looks like Hanuman at first glance and in fact Lautha Baba is considered nondifferent from Hanuman. Sutala-vana and Kadamba-vana Sutala-vana is another rasa-sthali, a place where rasa-lila took place. At the time of Bhaktisiddhanta Sarasvati, there used to be whole forest of kadamba trees. In 1992 some of them were already half-dry. Kadamba represents Radharani because of its wonderful flowers. One of Radharani's names is Gandharvika, because She is the source of all kinds of beautiful scents. The enchanting fragrances of Her body resemble that of kadamba and any time Krisna sees and smells kadamba flowers, He is reminded of Radharani. Tamala tree with its dark colored bark represent Krisna. Gopis in their mood of separation sometimes embrace tamal trees saying: "Oh, it is Krisna! He has come!" And sometimes Krisna stands there as He would be a tamal tree and Radharani would talk to Him in Her mood of separation mistaken Him to be a tamal tree. All around Vraja, there are many kadamba and tamal trees standing side by side - tamal and kadamba - and brajavasis bow down to them and worship them as Radha and Krisna. Some of the trees may be over 5000 years old and they have personally witnessed Krisna's manifested pastimes. We can pray to them to be able to see the Krisna's pastimes as they did. Raghava Pandit's Cave (Mani-kandali Cave) In this cave Radha and Krisna used to meet and enjoy their intimate pastimes together. Raghava Pandit, an associate of Mahaprabhu, used this cave as his bhajan-kutir to perform his nirjana-bhajana (secluded bhajana). Raghava Pandit always lived at Govardhan and Srila Rupa Gosvami arranged for Srinivasa Acarya and Narottama Thakur to go on Vraja-mandala parikrama with Raghava Pandit. Inside his bhajan-kutir cave. Than the parikrama road continues on the opposite side of the Govardhan Hill... ...and on our way listen to some more Krisna-katha... Sanatana Gosvami used to perform parikrama of Govardhan every day, even in his old age. Once, while doing parikrama in the summer heat, the soil under his feet was burning hot and there was not shade to be found. Suddenly, a cowherd boy came and held a yellow shawl over Sanatana to give him shade. With the other corner of the shawl, He started fanning Gosvamiji's face... ...His whole body became cool by the touch of that boy, who said to him: "Baba, in this old age, there is no need for you to perform parikrama of Govardhan and undergo so much hardship." Sanatana replied that he could not give it up as it is a part of his daily vows... ...Seeing that Sanatana was determined to continue, the boy brought a rock from Govardhan Hill marked with stick and the lotus feet of Krisna and gave it to Sanatana: "Take this Govardhana-sila, perform parikrama of this sila for seven times and you will receive the same benefit as doing whole Govardhana-parikrama..." ...Saying this the boy gave the sila to Sanatana and disappeared. The boy was no other than Giridhari, the lifter of Govardhan. Sanatana's sila used to reside in Radha-Damodara Temple in Vrindavan, but nowadays it is in the Radha-Damodara Temple in Jaipur. The pratibhu-vigraha of this sila is present in Radha-Damodara Mandir in Vrindavan. One can easily receive the results of performing Govardhana-parikrama by circumambulating the sila or whole Radha-Damodara Mandir four times. On our right side there is Indra-puja shrine on the Govardhan Hill and Airavata's footprint impressed upon the rock right next to it. Krisna was walking on Govardhan Hill seeing the damage caused to Vrindavan created by Indra's torrents of rain... ...On seeing Krisna, Indra fell down and offered obeisances at this place. He shed so many tears, that they created a lake called Indra-kund on the opposite side of parikrama path. Doka-dauji Temple can be seen from the both sides of the Hill. Surabhi-kund This kund, filled with sweet water lies on the left side of the parikram path. It was created by heavenly Surabhi cow, brought by Indra from Brahmaloka, to pacify Krisna after Indra realized his mistake.... ...Surabhi came forward to Krisna with the milk in her udder and requested Krisna to forgive Indra. Only then Krisna was appeased... ...Later out of greed to have darsan of Sri Krisna's lila, Surabhi resided at this place for the duration of Krisna's manifest vraja-lila. Maharaja Vajranabha built this Surabhi-kund in her memory... ...Similarly as Indra was forgiven, by taking bath and performing acaman at Surabhi-kund, all ones aparadhas (offences) are forgiven by taking bath here... ...and Vraja-sevika simply cannot miss such an opportunity… Surabhi-kund was recently nicely repaired. Kadamba-vana... ...with the cows resting in shadow. Thereafter we are passing along Rudra-kund on our left side little futher away from the road. Here Mahadeva (Siva) became so absorbed in meditation on Krisna's lilas, that he began to weep... ...Rudana means "tears" and this kund is sometimes called Rudana-kund, since it was created by Rudra's tears. Siva Temple at this place is called Bole Baba Mandir. Siva-linga in the shrine. There is also greater lake at this place surrounding Rudra-kund named after one of Krisna's friends called Hariju-kund. It is said that here Radha and Krisna enjoy bathing together. Nearby there is Airavata-kund created by Indra's elephant Airavata, who brought water of celestial Ganga in his trunk and stored it here for the bathing ceremony of Sri Krisna at Govinda-kund. Just before Jatipur there are plenty of samadhis. Jatipur is named after Madhavendra Puri, who was sannyasi (yati or jati) and who used to reside here. It was here at Jatipur that he performed abhisek and annakuta festival for Sri Nathji. Mukharavinda Here is another Mukharavinda or lotus mouth of Govardhan. This particular Mukharavinda is accepted by the Vallabha-sampradaya who manage the temple of Gopalaji. The same sampradaya is also looking after the original Gopala Deity known as Sri Nathji at Nathdwar in Rajasthan... ...Six Gosvamis had very good relationships with Sri Vitthalacarya, the son of Vallabhacarya and they have entrusted the responsibility of the seva to the sons of Sri Vallabhacarya... ...Vitthalanatha's samadhi and Vallabhacarya's bhaitaka (sitting place) are nearby. Dandavat-sila It is said that anyone who circumambulate this Govardhana-sila for seven times and offers full dandavats will be relieved of all offences that may have been committed during parikrama... ...It is also said that the priests who serve in the temples on top of the Govardhan Hill come here to rid themselves of offences they may have committed for having climbed on the sacred hill. Since we have unintentionally stepped on many stones around Govardhan on our way we had happily circumambulated the sila. Vilachu-kund On our left side further away from the road we have just passed by Vilachu-kund. Once Srimati Radharani lost Her anklebell here... ...She was searching for it when Krisna suddenly appeared and asked Her jokingly, if She was looking for His flute that had been lost. Radharani asked Krisna not to joke, but to help Her find the lost anklet... ...Krisna persisted in joking and Radharani became angry. In order to pacify Her, Krisna started to dig up the earth with his bare hands. To Radharani's amazement He dug up all types of anklebells, some gold, some silver, besides all kinds of priceless gems... ...Krisna than smiled an asked Radharani which one belonged to Her. Feeling great happiness, Radha and Krisna embraced one another. Beautiful tamal and kadamba on the bank of Vilachu-kund. To get to the Vilachu-kund one has to go from the parikram road into the fields... Just between this place... ...and ancient Laksmi-Narayan Temple. As we are approaching Govardhan town... ...Giriraj again disappears from our sight. After going through Govardhan town for the second time we can see Manasi-ganga, this time from the other side of parikrama road. On the opposite side of Manasi-ganga we are passing on our left side by Sakhi-sthali (Kadamba-khandi), where Candravali used to live with her 64 sakhis. Within this village is a lake known as Lilavati-kund (Sakhi-kund), which was dug by the girlfriends of Candravali. There is always transcendental competition going on between Radharani and Candravali to gain Krisna's attention. Out of all gopis, eight (asta-sakhis) are prominent. Out of them, two are even more prominent: Radharani and Candravali and out of them Radharani is the most prominent and dearly beloved by Sri Krisna. Srila Rupa Gosvami has explained that Candravali expands herself to became Rukmini in the Dvaraka-lila and gopis headed by Candravali expand themselves to become the queens headed by Rukmini. To ordinary people, this competition of gopis is most confusing. One day a brajavasi came to Raghunath das Gosvami who was doing his bhajana on the banks of Radha-kund and brought him some buttermilk. Raghunath asked him from where he had got it and brajavasi joyfully said: "I brought it form Sakhi-sthali." Hearing this Raghunath angrily ordered brajavasi to leave... ...Brajavasi could not understand Raghunatha's mood and fled. Raghunath das Gosvami is an intimate maidservant in Srimati Radharani's own group (svapaksa) and just hearing about the place of Candravali (Radharani's rival) made him act in this way. Uddhava-kund This kund is situated exactly west of Kusuma-sarovara. Skanda-purana quoted in Srimad-Bhagavatam Mahatmya, gives a very interesting description of this place. Vajranabha Maharaja manifested Uddhava-kund under the guidance of Sandilya and other risis. Uddhava always resides here as a grass and shrubs in order to be sprinkled by the foot-dust of gopis. After the disappearance of Lord Krisna, His queens in Dvaraka were greatly afflicted by sorrow. Once, Vajranabha came here with them and together they performed a very loud snakirtana. In that maha-sankirtana, all the parikaras (associates) of Krisna started to appear one by one. All of them joined the kirtan and Arjuna began to dance and play mridanga... ...Suddenly, maha-bhagavata Uddhava emerged from the grass and he also became immersed in dancing. How could Krisna now remain behind when this maha-sankirtana was taking place? Krisna along with Radharani and other sakhis appeared and after some time again disappeared. Uddhava thus pacified the queens at this place. The Deities in the temple at Uddhava-kund are believed to have been installed five thousands years ago by Vajranabha. On the horizon we can see the towers of Kusuma-sarovara's monuments on the opposite side of Govardhana-parikrama road, indicating that we are getting close to the end of our parikrama. Pilgrims performing parikrama proceed along the path until they arrive at Sri Radha-kund, where our journey around Govardhan Hill ends. "Jaya Radha-Madhava, kunja bihari, Gopijana-vallabha girivara-dhari..." Radha-kund is the most dear place of Radharani, because it is here, in the groves surrounding Her sacred bathing pool, that She enjoys the most intimate loving exchanges with Sri Krisna. Syama-kund (further away) and Radha-kund are eyes of the Govardhan Hill. Krisnadas Kaviraj Gosvami has mentioned that anyone who under the guidance of gopis bathes in the sacred waters of Radha-kund even once in his life, will be blessed by Lord Krisna to achieve the same mood of ecstatic love as that of Srimati Radharani. In order to actually enter Radha-kund, one must be above the bodily concept and completely free from all offences. No frivolous splashing in the sacred waters, no material consciousness. Sometimes it may be better to take only three drops on ones head since that is as good as taking bath. Some of the residents of Radha-kund can be seen sitting by the water and with the help of lota (cup) taking its water and pouring it on themselves, not daring to touch the sacred kund with their feet. Radha-kund is considered liquid form (prema svarupa) of Srimati Radharani. To achieve the actual darsan of Radha-kund is exactly the same as having darsan of Srimati Radharani Herself. The places and pastimes of Radha-kund are described in separate article. And it is definitively worth to read it... "This attractive place is surrounded by various kinds of trees - kadambas, rows of campakas, excellent new asokas, numerous mango trees, punnagas, bakulas, lavangas and malati creepers. It is the best of all places, where the two ponds of Radha and Madhava meet along one edge. May I find shelter here, at the favorite place of the two lover's pleasure pastimes." (Vraja-vilasa-stava 52, Raghunath das Gosvami) "May very fragrant Radha-kund, on the shore of which, in a pleasant courtyard Queen Radha and Her friends sweetly joke with Lord Krishna, the moon of Vraja, be my shelter." (Raghunath das Gosvami) "May very fragrant Radha-kund, where the passionate divine couple daily plays with Their passionate friends in the charming lotus scented water, be my shelter." (Raghunath das Gosvami) "May the left arm of Sri Krisna, whose eyes are like the petals of a lotus flower, always protect you. With His left arm He raised Govardhan Hill as if it were a toy." Bhakti-rasamrita-sindhu 2.1.62 "O my friends, this Giriraj is the topmost among Sri Hari's servants and is absorbed in supreme bliss, always being touched by Sri Balarama and Sri Krisna's lotus feet. Giriraja serves and satisfies Sri Krisna, Balarama and cowherd boys and the cows by providing them with water from his pure sarovaras, lush grass, fruits, roots and various minerals like gairika." Srimad-Bhagavatam 10.21.18