Wednesday, May 20, 2020

Aryan Valley In Ladakh Himalayas ..............Advaitvadini Kaul





Aryan Valley In Ladakh Himalayas !
I had an opportunity to document my conversations with locals in the Aryan Valley in their villages known as Garkhun, Hanu, Dha, Biama, Darchik and in some small hamlets situated along the banks of the gushing Sindhu river that flows to Pakistan from here. These people call themselves Aryans. They are fair, tall with blue eyes, sharp nose and overall sharp features. But one can also trace mix of Mongoloid features in some cases because with the passage of time they started cohabiting with other people of nearby areas in Ladakh region.
The Aryan Valley is situated about 180 kms from Leh towards the north-west direction. Though the community has now adopted Buddhism but like Vedic society they are basically nature worshippers. Sun, Moon, Fire, Mountain and Glacier are their primary gods. A mountain is called La and each locality has its own La (mountain) Devata. Offerings are made to their respective La everyday at a specific place in the kitchen area of each household; on special occasions like new harvest, at the birth of a child etc. at a higher place on the hill marked for the purpose in each locality. On the birth of a baby they go up to the glacier for thanks giving. Mountain is the saviour and water is life giver, they believe. Saket is the word they use for world. They go for pilgrimage together to a high mountain at a specific time of the year when they are done with the work of farming etc.
All their celebrations are community celebrations. Even birthdays are celebrated together. Losar is one of the prominent annual festivals celebrated in the month of December. This festival goes for three days. All members of each locality or village assemble for celebrations in the evenings at a central place. Such a central place one can find in each locality. As they count their age by the cycle of 12 years, on asking an elderly lady about her age she replied seven. My interpreter explained that this means she is 84( 12x7 =84). During the festival of Losar some members visit the houses of such families whose member/ members may have completed a cycle of 12 years. They first greet them at their respective homes and then bring them to the central place with festivity -singing and dancing. Then they eat and rejoic while spending some hours together each evening by getting themselves dressed in their traditional attire which is peculiar to them. This festival also provides an opportunity to the adult members of this taboo free society (which include both boys and girls), to select a life partner for them.
They feel rejoiced when a baby is born - be it a boy or a girl. They give extra respect and love to a baby girl in comparison to a baby boy thinking that one day she has to go away (after her marriage). A widow lives a normal life like other women in the society. When two women meet after a long time they greet each other by hurling their caps at each other. This was a chance finding by us.
Flowers are the symbol of happiness. They have a specific flower which remains fresh for many years. Both men and women wear this flower/ flowers in their caps.The absence of the flower in the cap is indication of mourning in the family. They cremate their dead in such a way which requires less wood as they don’t have many very limited number of trees /wood available in their vicinity.
They are originally shepherds by their occupation and during summer they also do farming, mainly of barley, millet and apricots. Now they also grow vegetables etc.
In response to asking about their past I was told by pointing towards a nearby mountain that the fort of their king was there, the king had three sons and they are the progeny of the two sons living in Dha and Hanu areas of the Aryan Valley (as the whole Valley is divided under these two main villages) and they further informed that the area of the descendants of the third son falls now on the other side of the border since 1947 after the partition of India ( they are known as Kalash कलाश tribe in Pakistan). What was more interesting to learn from them was about their one more annual festival which takes place around the month of July. As per their tradition this festival was being organised by one of the three sons of the king each year by turn, however in the celebration the members of the other two brothers’ families would also join. This tradition continues till date with them in respect of Dha and Hanu areas of the Aryan Valley and the noteworthy point is that they continue to leave one year for the descendants of the third son presuming that they continue with this traditional practice across the border also (here it seems important to inform that having watched several videos made on the Kalash tribe which are available on YouTube, couldn’t find any such mention from their side though they are following many other traditions which correlate with the traditions of the community of the Aryan Valley).
One more significant point that we got to know from the locals of the Aryan Valley was that the “Alexander Theory”!has been attributed to them by outsiders. This was repeatedly emphasised by the locals. About their jewellery made of shells and buttons they said these were acquired from the traders who used to cross this area.
While interacting with an elderly couple from the Hanu village of the Aryan valley living with their son in Leh where he is running a very good hotel, I told them in my conversation that their son was doing so well and they were living a comfortable life provided by their son in Leh, how were they finding it to stay away from their original place. Before they could say anything, tears rolled down from their eyes and after taking a pause they said, “though we are very proud of our son and we feel very happy for him doing well in Leh but for us our own village is a heaven which we love like anything and never want to stay away, always long to be there” - both of them responded in one voice.
The historical details and traditions of this forthright community are now preserved only in their oral tradition mainly in the form of folk songs and dances. They also had a tradition of story telling which they used to practice in the form of songs. During the winter time, when they used to sit mostly inside their homes spinning the goat wool such songs would be practiced to make the use of time in a positive and productive manner. This unique community is left with just four thousand in number now with not many elderly members who really have details of their past, can sing the traditional songs along with performing the traditional dances. However, youngsters expressed that they always feel proud of their unique culture about which they talk with their friends and colleagues in other places as their children are now going out for studies and jobs. This was a very positive sign. We tried to emphasise upon them by saying that they should also make efforts to preserve whatever is left of their unique traditions.The young boys and girls were motivated to start documenting the oral tradition left with their elders. We suggested them to keep on writing the songs and stories they have heard from their elders and even they should keep on sitting with their elders to write down what they hear from them. Taking our advice it’s heartening to inform here that one member of this community who is working in Leh informed that he has already noted down around two hundred songs which he is attempting to translate also.
What stole my heart for this unique community is that their faces are vibrating with warmth and a kind of divine glow.
( This Documentation done in June 2018 was facilitated by IGNCA. Through Shri Virendra Bangroo IGNCA has also facilitated the community in bring up a local museum by restoring an old building of traditional architecture in which ancient stone utensils, dresses, jewellery, ornaments and many other interesting articles are displayed along with colourful pictures depicting breathtaking landscapes, life of the people & different festivals etc. )
I had an opportunity to document my conversations with locals in the Aryan Valley in their villages known as Garkhun, Hanu, Dha, Biama, Darchik and in some small hamlets situated along the banks of the gushing Sindhu river that flows to Pakistan from here. These people call themselves Aryans. They are fair, tall with blue eyes, sharp nose and overall sharp features. But one can also trace mix of Mongoloid features in some cases because with the passage of time they started cohabiting with other people of nearby areas in Ladakh region.
The Aryan Valley is situated about 180 kms from Leh towards the north-west direction. Though the community has now adopted Buddhism but like Vedic society they are basically nature worshippers. Sun, Moon, Fire, Mountain and Glacier are their primary gods. A mountain is called La and each locality has its own La (mountain) Devata. Offerings are made to their respective La everyday at a specific place in the kitchen area of each household; on special occasions like new harvest, at the birth of a child etc. at a higher place on the hill marked for the purpose in each locality. On the birth of a baby they go up to the glacier for thanks giving. Mountain is the saviour and water is life giver, they believe. Saket is the word they use for world. They go for pilgrimage together to a high mountain at a specific time of the year when they are done with the work of farming etc.
All their celebrations are community celebrations. Even birthdays are celebrated together. Losar is one of the prominent annual festivals celebrated in the month of December. This festival goes for three days. All members of each locality or village assemble for celebrations in the evenings at a central place. Such a central place one can find in each locality. As they count their age by the cycle of 12 years, on asking an elderly lady about her age she replied seven. My interpreter explained that this means she is 84( 12x7 =84). During the festival of Losar some members visit the houses of such families whose member/ members may have completed a cycle of 12 years. They first greet them at their respective homes and then bring them to the central place with festivity -singing and dancing. Then they eat and rejoic while spending some hours together each evening by getting themselves dressed in their traditional attire which is peculiar to them. This festival also provides an opportunity to the adult members of this taboo free society (which include both boys and girls), to select a life partner for them.
They feel rejoiced when a baby is born - be it a boy or a girl. They give extra respect and love to a baby girl in comparison to a baby boy thinking that one day she has to go away (after her marriage). A widow lives a normal life like other women in the society. When two women meet after a long time they greet each other by hurling their caps at each other. This was a chance finding by us.
Flowers are the symbol of happiness. They have a specific flower which remains fresh for many years. Both men and women wear this flower/ flowers in their caps.The absence of the flower in the cap is indication of mourning in the family. They cremate their dead in such a way which requires less wood as they don’t have many very limited number of trees /wood available in their vicinity.
They are originally shepherds by their occupation and during summer they also do farming, mainly of barley, millet and apricots. Now they also grow vegetables etc.
In response to asking about their past I was told by pointing towards a nearby mountain that the fort of their king was there, the king had three sons and they are the progeny of the two sons living in Dha and Hanu areas of the Aryan Valley (as the whole Valley is divided under these two main villages) and they further informed that the area of the descendants of the third son falls now on the other side of the border since 1947 after the partition of India ( they are known as Kalash कलाश tribe in Pakistan). What was more interesting to learn from them was about their one more annual festival which takes place around the month of July. As per their tradition this festival was being organised by one of the three sons of the king each year by turn, however in the celebration the members of the other two brothers’ families would also join. This tradition continues till date with them in respect of Dha and Hanu areas of the Aryan Valley and the noteworthy point is that they continue to leave one year for the descendants of the third son presuming that they continue with this traditional practice across the border also (here it seems important to inform that having watched several videos made on the Kalash tribe which are available on YouTube, couldn’t find any such mention from their side though they are following many other traditions which correlate with the traditions of the community of the Aryan Valley).
One more significant point that we got to know from the locals of the Aryan Valley was that the “Alexander Theory”!has been attributed to them by outsiders. This was repeatedly emphasised by the locals. About their jewellery made of shells and buttons they said these were acquired from the traders who used to cross this area.
While interacting with an elderly couple from the Hanu village of the Aryan valley living with their son in Leh where he is running a very good hotel, I told them in my conversation that their son was doing so well and they were living a comfortable life provided by their son in Leh, how were they finding it to stay away from their original place. Before they could say anything, tears rolled down from their eyes and after taking a pause they said, “though we are very proud of our son and we feel very happy for him doing well in Leh but for us our own village is a heaven which we love like anything and never want to stay away, always long to be there” - both of them responded in one voice.
The historical details and traditions of this forthright community are now preserved only in their oral tradition mainly in the form of folk songs and dances. They also had a tradition of story telling which they used to practice in the form of songs. During the winter time, when they used to sit mostly inside their homes spinning the goat wool such songs would be practiced to make the use of time in a positive and productive manner. This unique community is left with just four thousand in number now with not many elderly members who really have details of their past, can sing the traditional songs along with performing the traditional dances. However, youngsters expressed that they always feel proud of their unique culture about which they talk with their friends and colleagues in other places as their children are now going out for studies and jobs. This was a very positive sign. We tried to emphasise upon them by saying that they should also make efforts to preserve whatever is left of their unique traditions.The young boys and girls were motivated to start documenting the oral tradition left with their elders. We suggested them to keep on writing the songs and stories they have heard from their elders and even they should keep on sitting with their elders to write down what they hear from them. Taking our advice it’s heartening to inform here that one member of this community who is working in Leh informed that he has already noted down around two hundred songs which he is attempting to translate also.
What stole my heart for this unique community is that their faces are vibrating with warmth and a kind of divine glow.
( This Documentation done in June 2018 was facilitated by IGNCA. Through Shri Virendra Bangroo IGNCA has also facilitated the community in bring up a local museum by restoring an old building of traditional architecture in which ancient stone utensils, dresses, jewellery, ornaments and many other interesting articles are displayed along with colourful pictures depicting breathtaking landscapes, life of the people & different festivals etc. )



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