The Vibrant Bahu Fort Mela of Jammu
Rahul Dogra
In the heart of Jammu, where history and spirituality intertwine, lies
the iconic Bahu Fort, an ancient edifice that stands as a testament to
the region’s rich heritage. Nestled within its fortified walls is the
revered Mahakali Temple, also known as the Bawe Wali Mata Temple, a
sacred abode of Matarani that draws countless devotees and visitors
alike.
Each year, during the auspicious Navratras, the Bahu Fort Mela
transforms this historic precinct into a vibrant celebration, where
tradition and festivity converge in a captivating spectacle. The people
wait for hours to have Darshans of their loved Bawe Wali Mata. Devotees
are commonly seen praying in the temple courtyard in deep meditation
chanting “Jaikaara Maa Bawe Wale Mata Da , Bolo Sache Darbar Ki Jai”.
The Bahu Fort Mela is an exhilarating celebration that transcends mere
festivities, encapsulating the very essence of Jammu’s cultural
identity. As the sun rises over the Suryaputri Tawi River, the air is
filled with the melodious chanting of hymns and the aroma of incense,
inviting devotees to partake in this sacred gathering. The fort’s
ancient walls, which have witnessed the passage of centuries, come alive
with the fervent devotion of those seeking the blessings of the divine
Goddess Mahakali. Within the temple’s sanctum sanctorum, an elevated
platform houses a mesmerizing black stone Pindi, the revered
manifestation of the Goddess Mahakali herself. Adorned in exquisite
Dogra jewellery -the nath , Manng tikka , nama set and traditional
garments, the sacred idol bears a distinct local imprint that resonates
deeply with the Dogra community. The Goddess is a reflection of the
region’s cultural heritage, embodying the essence of the land and its
people. It is a profound connection that transcends mere symbolism, as
the Dogras regard her as their very own reigning Goddess.
The Mela’s Significance and Rituals
The Bahu Fort Mela holds immense significance for the people of Jammu,
as it is inextricably linked to the veneration of the Goddess Mahakali,
the presiding deity of the region. According to ancient lore, the temple
and the fort were constructed by the legendary Raja Bahulochan over
3,000 years ago, showcasing the deep-rooted connection between the
sacred site and the local populace. One of the most captivating rituals
observed during the Mela is the symbolic animal sacrifice, a practice
that has undergone a profound transformation over time. In the past,
animals were sacrificed as offerings to the Goddess, but today, this
ritual has evolved to a more symbolic form. Devotees purchase a goat and
bring it to a designated pit outside the temple, where a priest
performs sacred rites and sprinkles holy water on the animal.
If the goat shudders upon receiving the water, it is believed that the
Goddess has accepted the offering, and the animal is then released,
unharmed. This symbolic ritual, known as “Shilly Charana,” is a
testament to the evolving nature of traditions, where ancient practices
are adapted to align with contemporary values while still preserving
their spiritual essence. It is a beautiful fusion of the past and
present, ensuring that the sacred bond between the people and the divine
remains intact. Amidst the revelry, the Bahu Fort Mela also pays homage
to the region’s rich cultural heritage. Traditional folk songs, known
as “Karkan,” echo through the fair, celebrating the Goddess, the
surrounding environment, and the fragrant jasmine flowers that once
adorned the temple premises. These melodious odes serve as a poignant
reminder of the deep-rooted connection between the land, its people, and
their spiritual beliefs.
Historical Significance and Legends
The Dogras have forged an unbreakable bond with their beloved Bawe Wali
Mata, the presiding deity of the region. This sacred connection is
deeply rooted in the annals of history and intricately woven into the
fabric of their traditions and beliefs. For generations, the Dogras have
sought solace, guidance, and divine blessings from the benevolent
Goddess, cultivating a reverence that has withstood the test of time.
Goddess Mahakali’s presence at Bahu Fort goes back to ancient times.
Though the exact construction date of the fort and its historic Mahakali
temple cannot be stated with certainty, it is widely believed that King
Bahu Lochan built the fort around 3000 years ago. Bahu Lochan and his
brother Jambu Lochan (after whom Jammu city is named) were two of
eighteen sons of King Agnigarbha from the Suryavanshi dynasty of
Ayodhya. These descendants of Lord Rama’s son Kush had migrated to the
village of Parolnowan in Jammu’s Kathua district, as per historian Suraj
Saraf. From there, the clan spread, and Bahu Lochan conquered the
territory near Bahu Rakh. Legend has it that Jambu Lochan decided to
make Jammu his capital after seeing a tiger and goat drinking together
from the Tawi river.
When the invader Amir Timur attacked Jammu in the 14th century AD, the
Bahu Fort and temple already existed, mentioned in his autobiography
Malfuzat-i-Timuri. Historical accounts reveal the 300-year-old fort
first underwent renovation by Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1820, a tradition
continued by Dogra rulers like Maharaja Gulab Singh, Ranbir Singh,
Pratap Singh, and Hari Singh from 1846 to 1947.
Architectural Marvels and Modern Additions
The Bahu Fort itself is an architectural marvel, a testament to the
ingenuity and craftsmanship of its ancient builders. The octagonal fort,
constructed with thick walls and towering turrets, stands as a
formidable structure, its imposing presence commanding respect and awe.
Within its confines, visitors can explore a labyrinth of halls,
chambers, and secret passages, each with its own story to tell. One of
the fort’s most intriguing features is the presence of several ponds,
each serving a distinct purpose during the era of its glory. One pond
was reserved for the royal family, another for the king’s army, and a
third for the general populace, showcasing the meticulous planning and
organization that went into the fort’s design.
As time passed by, the Bahu Fort Mela has embraced modernity while preserving its traditional roots. The adjacent
As the sun sets over the ancient fort, the Mela takes on a different hue, with the soft glow of diyas and twinkling lights illuminating the pathways. Families gather, children revel in the festivities, and the air is filled with the sound of laughter and joy. It is a celebration that transcends the boundaries of age and creed, uniting all in the embrace of the divine and the timeless traditions that have been passed down through generations. The Bahu Fort Mela is more than just a festival; it is a tapestry woven from the threads of history, spirituality, and cultural identity. As visitors immerse themselves in its vibrant celebration, they embark on a journey that unveils the essence of Jammu, a region where the past and present converge in a harmonious dance, paying homage to the divine while embracing the ever-evolving traditions that shape its rich cultural landscape.
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