The temples of Rawalpindi: Old wisdom in a new world
Since the partition of the subcontinent, these temples have somehow withstood the wear and tear and still bear imprints of a culture long lost in the abyss of things bygone.
Rawalpindi, which was once predominantly inhabited by Hindus and Sikhs, now hosts only a few hundred Hindu families. All members of the Hindu community are devout worshippers and regular visitors of these temples.
As I stood at the rooftop of the buildings near Soojan Singh's haveli, I could see the old Rawalpindi city and its mandirs spread out before me. Even in the densely populated areas, these mandirs are easily discernible.
To learn a little more about this cultural multiplicity, I set out to visit these temples and the Hindu community of the city. I drove from Sadar bazaar to Kabarri bazaar to visit Krishna mandir, which is still open to public. It is situated in a busy street near the railway station.
At the entrance of the mandir, I was warmly received by Jagmohan Arorra, an elderly man in charge of the mandir, along with a few other people from the community. They are natives of Rawalpindi and have lived all their lives in the city.
“We have lived here since ages. I was born in this mandir and have spent my childhood playing in this area,” Arorra said.
At the top floor, the interior is illuminated by sunlight shining through the large windows. The room is decorated with pictures of Hindu saints, like Sai Baba.
“My mother was a Sikh and my father was a Hindu,” Arorra confirmed.
Since the majority of the Sikhs migrated, the Hindus are looking after these temples. The Krishna mandir, however, is now looked after by the evacuee trust board.
“I don’t remember any incident. We know each other’s prayer times. Rather, we try to facilitate the other. We offer prayers and have special gatherings on Tuesdays and that has never been a problem for either us or the Muslims.”
Arorra further recalled:
“When I was a child, I used to play with my Muslim friends in this very street. One day, while playing with my friends, I went to the mosque and asked the Maulvi sahab, 'Maulvi jee! Can I say azaan as my Muslim friends do?' Maulvi jee replied with a smile, 'Why not?' That day, I called for prayers in the masjid.”
Nostalgia swept over Arorra's face, softening his eyes.
Read on: Historic temple’s days may be numbered
The mandir is surrounded by military camps, which have been there since the British era. It is owned by the community and not by the evacuee trust. On my arrival at the temple, I met Jagjeet Bhatti , 67, and his family, who have lived here since the time of British India.
Sunil, a young man from the community told me, “Hindus from all over Pakistan come to this mandir for Bhandara (festival) in June every year.”
On my inquiry about the religious freedom of Hindus here, Sunil said, “We usually don’t feel any hesitation in offering our prayers at the mandir. The last 15 years have been peaceful for the community because of the awareness that the media has brought to the society, but we do face problems for cremation. The Shamshaan Ghaat is situated at an overcrowded place which makes things difficult for us. For this reason, we have to take the dead bodies to Attock city for cremation.”
These mandirs; those which have vanished under the expanding city or those which are left crumbling, seek recognition from the city that once owned them, and from the people that have their past attached to it.
See: Historical sites in Rawalpindi to be preserved
According to some reports, recently, a project was planned by the Unesco to renovate the temples in Rawalpindi and to declare these assets as regional heritage. Whether or not that will happen still remains a question.
Rawalpindi has the potential to become the centre of regional heritage, if taken care of.
A city with a rich history and culture, it calls for recognition and consideration from its own people, before seeking it from anywhere else.
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