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A Journey Towards Moksha...Char Dham..The Most Sacred Dham...Gangotri.
Published by amitap under bhagirathi, bhairao ghati, bhatwari, dharali, gangotri, gomukh, harsil, jhalla, sukhi, Uttarakhand, uttarkashi on 1:00 AMThe Land Of Myths And Legends....
Uttarakhand..Abode Of Gods..
Part III...Gangotri ...Till Harsil...
Even places that have been shrouded in darkness for billions of years can be illuminated. Even a stone from the bottom of a river can be used to produce fire. Our present sufferings, no matter how dark, have certainly not continued for billions of years-nor will they linger forever. The sun will definitely rise. In fact, its ascent has already begun.
Day 6 :Uttarkashi To Harsil..
On Day 3,In the evening we were at Uttarkashi. After spending two days there, we moved on towards Gangotri. Let me mention over here, Gangotri opens for a specific period of the year (like other three Dhams). This year, the doors (pat) of temple opened from 16 May on Auspicious Day Of Akshay Tritiya and remained so till Deepavali. Once the season starts, visitors of all shades reportedly swarm the places / routes.Next, I would say this – the road until Gnagotri is very good (except a small patch, which I cover later). Any type of car can comfortably make its way till Gangotri. I emphasise the point because before departure, all my reports indicated that roads beyond Uttarkashi may be a little un-doable.But Sonu,our van driver was a frequent visitor to these dhams and was accustomed to thsee routes very well ,so we were well assured ...
Maneri Bhali Hydro Electricity Project @ Maneri Near Uttarkashi
Gangotri shrine, dedicated to Goddess Ganga, is more of a notional/spiritual source of Ganga than a real one. The glacier mouth is further beyond, at Gaumukh (which is 18 kms trekking distance away from Gangotri and sadly, the glacier goes on receding farther every year). Furthermore, Ganga of Gangotri is actually Bhagirathi (one of the important tributaries of Ganga). Bhagirathi meets up with Alaknanda at Devprayag to form Ganga. Alaknanda, on its way to Devprayag, is met by Mandakini at Rudraprayag. In fact, there are five confluence points of tributaries of Ganga, which are together known as Panch Prayag, viz, Devprayag, Rudraprayag, Karnaprayag, Nandprayag and Vishnuprayag. One will come across all the five prayags, if driving to Badrinath. Two of them, (Rudraprayag and Devprayag) will come your way if you drive towards Kedarnath.
Winding Road To Gangotri
On our way we found out Maneri at a distance of about 10 km from Uttarkashi, Maneri has lately emerged as a place of tourist interest as a result of the construction of a Dam across the Bhagirathi river, from where the water is fed to the turbines through an 8-km-long tunnel at Tiloth in Uttarkashi. The resultant lake at Maneri has added to the charm of the place.
Maneri Lake @ Maneri
Tanking up the van, we left Uttarkashi by 10.30 a.m. The road to Gangotri passes through Maneri, Bhatwari, Gangnani and Harsil. Between Bhatwari (28 kms from Uttarkashi) and Gangnani, there was a bad patch due to ongoing construction. The patch lasted for precisely 13 kms, wherein the road conditions varied from dirt track to bare stony variety – the patch was drivable in a van, though it tends to restrict the speed.On our way next place was a small town Bhatwari which is 19 kms from Maneri . At the starting of the village Bhatwari there is a beautifully partially constructed Ashram known as “Pilot Baba Ashram” on the bank of river Bhagirathi.
Maa kali idol at Pilot baba Ashram
Vishnu And Laxmi Idols In Pilot baba Ashram
Bhatwari is the only place where the condition of road is bad because of renovation & construction of a tunnel & new Road.There we stopped to have our lunch.However, before and after this patch, the roads are mostly in very good condition.Gangnani is known for its hot water spring.About 33 km from Maneri,there is a hot water spring at Gangnani, where one can have refreshing bath in the Hot spring Pool, There is a temple near the kund dedicated to the sage Parashar – father of Ved Vyas.
Gangnani is a siren that lures travelers off their paths and traps us for days, even weeks at a time - the hot springs at Gangnani.It's like stepping into a fairy-tale or a scene that got dropped from Alice in Wonderland. Wildflowers and giant rhododendron trees blossom on the steep hills of the valley, pine trees cling to the slopes, the ferocious Ganges thunders down the river canyon while on all sides the Himalayan peaks glisten white like puffed-up desserts.In ancient times the devotees could not reach to
Gangotri..Gomukh..so they used to bath in the holy hot sulphur springs here..and people used to say....गंगा यही नहानी है ...गंगनानी was the short form of गंगा यही नहानी है..The pools of Gangnani are nonetheless a holy place of religious worship for Hindus. A temple to Shiva - one of Hinduism's most important deities - lies above the pools and many pilgrims stop in here to make puja - an elaborate ritual offering performed by the local priests - and then cleanse themselves in the natural hot water of the springs.
Hot Water Springs @ Gangnani
The view all around, as one travels along the Bhagirathi, was awesome. Here I would mention one point, though. Unlike other hilly terrains in Himachal, Kumaon or even Southern part of Garhwal for that matter, the landscapes on this route appeared somewhat less wooded. Forestation, however, increases as one nears Harsil/Gangotri.
Most Scenic Route
Thoroughly enjoying the scenery with swooping ranges and changing facets of Bhagirathi as she makes her way across the Himalayas, we reached Sukhi Top..The next place after Gangnani is Army Cantonment area called Sukhi Top which is 18 Kms from Gangnani. It is situated at the height of 2744 meters above the sea level.This is the place from where Himalyas appear very near covered with snow.
View From Sukhi Top
View From Sukhi Top
Another point, duly recorded – on this stretch (Uttarkashi-Gangotri ), in comparison to all our journeys across parts of Himalayas, we came across the maximum number of streams.They include both varieties – the ones where the streams fall along the mountain on banks of the road and then disappear (perhaps under the road); and the ones where the stream belligerently crosses the road through stony cracks.From somewhere after Bhatwari, we also faced spells of heavy rains. The rains persisted for the next two days, though in typical hill style – it would rain heavily in the evenings but sky became clear and sunny in the mornings.
View From Sukhi Top
The journey down to Jhalla which is 7 kms from Sukhi Top is exciting as we were moving along with river Bhagirathi ..
Our next aimed destination was Harsil. It is 6 kms from Jhala . Most of the people prefer to stay in Harsil only before visiting Gangotri to avoid rush in Gangotri.-Harsil is a small, extremely scenic and not much explored hamlet located on the banks of Bhagirathi, encircled by snow-capped peaks. It is central to a number of treks routes in the area, apart from being the entry point to Kinnaur Himalayas of Himachal Pradesh. Our decision to stay in Harsil was based on these facts and that Gangotri is mere 30 kms from here.
Jhalla village with Bhagirathi river
Harsil, situated on the left side of the road reachable after a small detour, has very limited stay options – GMVN (Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam) For more stay options, one should check out Dharali, a largish township 2 kms ahead of Harsil, which has a number of other hotels.Thanks to rains, and our unpreparedness this time, we were struck hard by the freezing cold of Harsil.
Waterfalls before Harsil
Unidentified smaller peaks as seen from Harsil on the right side valley
It is said that Harsil got its name because the rivers Bhagirathi and the Jalandhari once had an argument about which was more important. Lord Vishnu, also known as Hari, was asked to intervene. He turned himself into a great stone, a shila, and absorbed their anger. And even today, after Hari-shila (or Harsil), the waters of the two rivers become a little less turbulent.
Harsil
Jalandhar rivulet joins bhgirathi at harsil
Harsil is famous for its Apple & Rajma (Red in Colour)..Ram Teri Ganga Mali was shot in Harsil and the famous Jharna (Fall) scene of actress – Mandakini was shot under this particular waterfall, which now bears her name.Another info – leopard sightings do happen in the area. The caretaker informed that just about two weeks back, a group of guests came across a leopard crossing the road. The guests, understandably, were thereafter in unusual hurry to head back home.
Mandakani Fall - Harsil..(sizeable part of Raj Kapur’s ‘Ram Teri Ganga Maili’ was shot in Harsil and the famous jharna scene of Mandakini was shot under this particular waterfall, which now bears her name. )
Cholia in the rains in Harsil
Harsil was popular for the legend of ‘Pahari’ Wilson, or Raja Wilson. Frederick E. Wilson, an adventurer, deserted the British Army just after the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857.He escaped into Garhwal and met the Raja of Tehri seeking refuge. But the Raja was faithful to the British and refused to accommodate Wilson. Wilson moved into the mountains to escape detection. Fate landed him in Harsil, a remote beautiful village on the banks of the Bhagirathi river, with dense deodar slopes on either side.
Wilson married a very beautiful pahari girl by the name of Gulabi..It is said that in course of time, Raja Wilson, as he was known by then, minted his own currency and as late as the 1930s, his coins were found with the local people.
Sun Set In Harsil..
Day 7:Harsil..Dharali..Bhairao Ghati...
Next day morning we got up at 4.00 AM to start early for Gangotri. Dharali is a picturesque village, is situated 3 km away from Harsil. Bhagirathi River flows close by and the village is surrounded by pine trees. Dharali offers a panoramic view of snow-clad peaks of the Himalayas.
Sun Rise From Harsil
Mt Sri Kanta on the way to Harsil
Known as One of the Kalp Kedar 3 kms further from Harsil, according to the legend in search of Lord Shiva pandavas built about 160 temples and meditated for a long time, where one can see the foot prints of horse shoe on the rock in the village. To day only one Lord Shiva’s sinking temple is existing. Winter seat of Maa Ganga, Mukhwa village at 2 kms distance across the river Bhagirathi where most of the pilgrims, saint and sages visiting here during winter. The area remains covered full of snow in the month of December to February. Villagers migrate towards down hills after Diwali. Obviously, valley is full of the mountain cliffs, beautiful wide Ganga valley, jungle of Deodar, Pine, Walnut, Chestnut
Bhagirathi river on the way to Gangotri
View From Dharali
Carpets of Pretty flowers
On the way to Gangotri , we crossed Lanka Chatti which is about 10 kms from Dharali. There is Asia’s highest bridge at an elevation of 2789 meters of Sea level over the river Bhagirathi.The most beautiful color of Bhagirathi is seen at the Bhairon ghati where it is joined by a blue river Jahnavi or Neelanganaga from Neelong range just 30 kms from Tibet border..
Asia's Highest Bridge@ Lanka
Bhagirathi View From Lanka Bridge
3 kms ahead to Lanka is Bhairon Ghati . A temple of Bhairon Devta here is visited by scores of pilgrims.On the way to Gangotri, the picturesque forested halting place of Bhaironghati. Tradition has it that after leaving the matted hair of Shiva, Bhagirathi followed king Bagirath and reached this spot, but disturbed the sage Jahnu in the middle of a sacrifice. Incensed at this, Jahnu took in the water flow, with his thigh, but when prohibited by Bhagirath, allowed it to emerge from his ears. There exists a small temple of Bhairon, appointed by Shiva to safeguard this region which gives the place its name.On the way we came across the doli of Maa Ganga towards Gangotri to be placed in Gangotri temple next day..i.e.Akshay tritiya all set from Mukhawa village..winter seat of Ganga..
Bhairav Temple @ Bhairon Ghati
Doli Of Ganga maa From Mukhwa Village set to Gangotri To be placed in the Gangotri temple On Akshay Tritiya
Harsil to Gangotri is comfortable 1 to 1.30 hr drive on good roads...As we were entering into Gangotri feeling very enthusiastic about visiting,seeing the Holy Bhagirathi by own eyes..The fascination was indeed...
Beautiful
Mushrooms can be beneficial by feeding on dead organic matter; they are a natural part of the decay process
॥ गङ्गा स्तुति.....आदि शङ्कराचार्य ॥
देवी सुरेश्वरी भगवति गङ्गे
त्रिभुवनतारिणी तरलतरङ्गे
शंकरमौलिविहारिणि विमले
मममतिरास्तां तव पदकमले ॥१॥
1) O Goddess Ganga! You are the divine river from heaven, you are the saviour of all the three worlds, you are pure and restless, you adorn Lord Shiva’s head. O Mother! may my mind always rest at your lotus feet.
भागिरथि सुखदायिनि मातः
तव जल -महिमा निगमे ख्यातः
नाहम् जाने तव महिमानम्
पाहि कृपामयि मामज्ञानम् ॥२॥
2) O Mother Bhagirathi! You give happiness to everyone. The significance of your holy waters is sung in the Vedas. I am ignorant and am not capable to comprehend your importance. O Devi! you are full of mercy. Please protect me.
2) O Mother Bhagirathi! You give happiness to everyone. The significance of your holy waters is sung in the Vedas. I am ignorant and am not capable to comprehend your importance. O Devi! you are full of mercy. Please protect me.
हरिपदपाद्य तरङ्गिणीगङ्गे
हिमविधुमुक्त धवलतरङ्गे
दुरिकुरु मम दुष्कृतिभारं
कुरु कृपया भवसागर पारम् ॥३॥
3) O Devi! Your waters are as sacred as “Charanamriti” of Sri Hari. Your waves are white like snow, moon and pearls. Please wash away all my sins and help me cross this ocean of Samsara.
तव जलममलं येन निपितम
परमपदं खलु तेन गृहीतम्
मातर्गङ्गे त्वयि यो भक्तः
किल तं द्रष्टुं न यमः शक्तः ॥४॥
4)O Mother! those who partake of your pure waters, definitely attain the highest state. O Mother Ganga! Yama, the Lord of death cannot harm your devotees.
पतितोद्धारिणी जाह्नवी गङ्गे
खण्डित गिरिवरमण्डित भङ्गे
भीष्मजननि हे मुनिवरकन्ये
पतितनिवारिणी त्रिभुवन धन्ये ॥५॥
5) O Jahnavi! your waters flowing through the Himalayas make you even more beautiful. You are Bhishma’s mother and sage Jahnu’s daughter. You are saviour of the people fallen from their path, and so you are revered in all three worlds.
॥शुभम् भवतु ॥
