THE BITTER TRUTH: Holy Cave Shri Amarnath Yatra

The Journey Path: Jammu Tawi- Pehelgaon- Holy Cave Shri Amarnath Yatra
(Coverage done in the year 2012)
Page 1: From the Rest of India-Jammu-Jawaharlal Nehru Tunnel, Kashmir

From the rest of India to Jammu Tawi:
The air route connects directly till Sri Nagar in Jammu and Kashmir. However maximum amount of yatris come through the railways mode from different parts of India and reach Jammu Tawi station in Jammu and Kashmir (the last railway station till Jammu and Kashmir from the rest of India).

Jammu Tawi to Pehelgaon (315Km):
From the Jammu Tawi station. The yatris either take buses or taxis from Jammu Tawi till Pehelgaon or Baltal. We will describe the onward journey till Pehelgaon which is the main path with historical relevance. The path from the holy cave till Baltal was built recently to reduce the walking journey. It would cost around Rs 500 through the bus and the Taxi would charge around double from Jammu till Pehelgaon.

On the way from Jammu to Pehelgaon, you will cross through beautiful sceneries all around. Mountains, rivers and valleys and more would make you a happy man free from the daily routine activities. However due to the terrorist activities in Jammu and Kashmir you may be stopped by the Army at many places to join together with the Army convoy that moves all the way from Jammu till pehelgaon and from the other side too at the same time. The private vehicles are stopped at various places and then allowed to move together even if the convoy is way behind.

The military convoy has a large number of trucks and jeeps which move in a series together. The 2 trucks shown above are a part.

A series of private vehicles halted by the army for the convoy to join in for security. Watch the halted series of vehicles from the other side of the mountain.

The famous Langars organized by various Donators are held all the way hundreds of kilometers before the Holy Cave. That is the level of devotiness of this pilgrimage. This langar was the first we saw and was close to Patni Top which was hundreds of kilometers away from the holy cave.

The main destinations you cover while going from Jammu to Pehelgaon are Udhampur, Kudd, Patnitop, Ramban, JawaharLal Nehru Tunnel, Sri Nagar, Anantnag. However if you go to Baltaal, you will go through Udhampur, Kudd, Patnitop, Ramban, JawaharLal Nehru Tunnel, Sri Nagar, Anantnag, Sonmarg and Baltal.

The picture above is taken at a famous hill station Patnitop which is also visited by many visitors when the come for the Vaishno Devi Yatra.

Don't stop much for what comes next every time supersedes the previous. Passing through the J.N Tunnel (The one they say that joins Kashmir with the rest of India. The scenic beauty increases even more once you cross the Jawaharlal Nehru Tunnel and enter Kashmir. Right they are who say, it is heaven on earth. And you dont need anyone to tell you that you entered Kashmir. when you enter you will know it yourself. Few distinguishing features: freshness! even less pollution than the rest of the mountain areas we see, clearer sunlight that reaches the ground. Better green shade of the lush green valleys and mountains, even more transparency in flowing water in the rivers and then the smiles you see across the locals makes you feel even more welcoming and friendly.

The freshness and simplicity is beyond explaination and few pics taken through a running car is just to give you an idea.

You can feel nature talking to you, only once you are there!

You can even try river rafting before reaching Pehalgaon. It is just before you reach the final destination along with the convoy, so you can probably leave it if you have a private vehicle, enjoy the rafting and a kawa at the outskirts of the fresh flowing Lider Nadi (River) after your sport with the cool refreshing water.

The dark side of Kashmir- Terrorism!
The picture you see above is of Anantnag, a famous market place in Kashmir which was closed in curfew that day when we passed through because of political instability and the car driver flew the road off after getting aloof of the convoy. Fortunate to have reached clear without any military interception.

Reach Pehelgam and proceed towards the base camp Pehelgam where you have to leave your taxi and enter the Military Regime!

One of the best place to see amazing hospitality by the big-big donators at the camp. A place where you forget for a moment if there is any other aim in your life besides the "Amarnath Yatra"

There is a major check post at the Pehelgaon. You leave your taxi/ bus at Pehelgaon and clear the major check post set up by the CRPF(army) and after stringent frisking you enter a tented area for the Amartnath Yatris engulfed completely on all 4 sides by the Indian Army. You will get a tent for an approximate price of Rs 200-500 for a group of 8-10 people. One both sides are high mountains secured by the Indian Army.

In the middle of this valley runs the Lider river and takes you all the way till Sheshnag.

The Langars at Pehelgam:

Alongside the tents you see for the first time the donators from all over India putting up their stalls together to serve absolutely free food. The word 'free' has no attraction at all when compared to the devotion and the begging welcoming ness of the donators who are dancing in the name of Lord Shiva with big DJ systems in different different stalls and requesting you to come in their stall to have food. I have seen people donating all around but never with this instinct. May God bless all those who are many steps ahead in donation here. We entered there at night, with the whole surrounding lighted up and food on buffet for everyone in relation. And the relation, relation was only devotion towards Bhole! Aao Bhole was what every serving man had on his lips and the smile across their faces was beyond understanding as to what are they getting by serving free food to everyone. The serving is buffet at most places as below.

The picture at night was a complete make over, we could not make out the valley would rock in the night. DJs running with sparkling disco lights at that time and at that altitude, is for you to remember for the REST OF YOUR LIFE. The picture shows you the side angle but it was a series of tents that started from one corner to the other and langars on both sides of the passage was like you entered a completely different world. Everyone dancing at night on disco lights and music and food of mostly all cousin.

If you are a late starter, get up early for this one time in life and see the freshness around (unmatched to many) and get fresh in the portable washrooms organised by the army. Have fresh breakfast of paranthas, south Indian dosas, idly, or biscuits, Rusk etc and check out of the tent area.

Gather at the bus stop for a local transport as shown above to move to the next main base camp "Chandanbari"

That is where you start your pad yatra, yatra by foot or khachchar. You can even opt for a Helicopter to land straight at Panchtarni.

But strongly recommended that you choose the heli only and only if you cannot walk or sit on a pony.

But we request, be with us to walk through the traditional path they say Bhole Baba took Maa along, to tell the immortal story. We will try to cover up more than the Helicopter does.

PAGE 4- Pehelgam to Chandanbari

Rest of the path along with the historical relevance and the Great Amar Katha (The Immortal Story) associated with this cave and pilgrimage.

Lord Shiva is immortal and his wife Maa Parvati once asked Bhole (Shiva) to tell her the way to be immortal too to get rid of taking birth again and again. To which Lord Shiva decided to tell Maa the Amar Katha (Immortal Story) upon listening SHE would also become immortal too.

Considering the maintenance in the balance of the nature, HE did not wish any living to listen to this too. So he decided to tell HER this story at the holy cave up in the mountains where no living could exist.

Pehelgaon to Chandanwari (16 km)
Lord Shiva started moving then along with his whole family and left all companions one by one on the path till the holy cave. At Pehelgaon HE decided to leave his Bail(Ox). So this place got the name BailGaon, which was later changed to Pehelgaon Pehel-Gaon (Pehel is first in Hindi and Gaon is Village) as this is the first(Pehel) milestone to the Pilgrimage. A world known destination for its beauty.

Start off along the Lider river to Chandanwari on beautiful plains and hills to see various hills around with one of the hills on the sides in the shape of a God figure.

Driving up on one of the hills you get to see below the famous Betab Ghati (derived its name from the famous movie Betab whose movie shooting is done in this valley).

Reach Chandanwari and you can stay at one of the tents organised by Langar people. Have awesome food at any of the langars and you have to stay here overnight. Rest at leasure for the rest of the day and take a stroll to see the first Glacier just a kilometer away choose to bath in the fresh Lider river flowing along. Cool water to quench the thirst of your body for long. Jai Bhole!

The backsides of one of the langars where fresh food is prepared all 3 times for the yatris. Thanks to all these donators again.

Tomorrow you start your pad yatra so sleep early to get up early. If the weather stays clear, you reach Sheshnag in one day - Chandanwari to Pissu Top (3 Km)

Further, second milestone came where Lord Shiva left HIS Chandrama (The Moon), and this place got its name, Chandanwari (or Chandanbari). This place like others has beauty all around with Lider river flowing on one side and rising mountains on all sides. This is where the walking journey actually starts. The fresh air fills up your lungs and giving you the power of freshness to start your journey. Once you reach at this place yatris take rest in the Langars and have refreshments or proper meal organized by 'Langarwalas'. Yatris take a bath in the holy river (Lider Nadi). Yatris stay overnight in their tents which are arranged in the Langars itself. And then you start the next morning after the breakfast.

Langar preparation area.

The journey should be started from Chandanwari always in the morning considering in mind the distance one has to travel in one day to the next stay at Sheshnag.

After only a few kilometers of walking from Chandanwari, you come across one of the biggest challenge i.e. Pissu Top. The hill is so upright and long that even the professional and regular walkers take a big breath after reaching the top. The unpracticed definitely take breath regularly sitting on the uncomfortable yet relieving stones embedded and protruding out stones.
They say Lord Shiva is the God of various poisonous creatures like the 'Pissus' which keep attached to his body. It is here that He left all the pissus.

People gathering in the morning at Chandanwari to commense the walking journey. Hire a pittu (luggage or small children carrier) or a Horse/ Pony if you cannot walk all.

Security checking next.

Picture above is the beginning of the tough Pissu Ghati and below is how it looks at a stretch.

And how it looks from the top. The slope is steep, very steep and undoubtedly the toughest however thankfully just in the beginning. After this, you will keep rolling, but keep rolling for a lot of time.

It is also said that at this place there was once a big battle fought between the Devtas and the Rakshas and with the blessings of Lord Shiva, the Devtas beat the Rakshas and powdered their bones which created this massive hill.

Pissu Top to Shesh Nag (9 Km)
The next major destination is Shesh Nag. There are in between destinations we pass by: Zojibal and Naga koti.

Pat your back for climning the Pissu Top and as an award, enjoy the beauty alongside for the rest of these 9 beautiful kilometers of your life to reach Sheshnag.

Sheshnag and this is where we have to end the first days trecking. For all the days toughs, it has no significance in comparison to what you see and where you have reached. The beauty of this place is one of the best of the whole trip. A place where you will have beauty in every section and in absolute terms. The mesmerizing view at Sheshnag deserves a new page to start with and probably the best place of this whole yatra.

Stand at Sheshnag and just turn around 360 degrees and you will see different mountain hills of different types on all sides. On one side you see the regular mountains which are muddy and rocky brown color, alongside you see the green mountains with some greenery. Alongside you see grey mountains and on the opposite side of the walking path are the most beautiful snow covered mountains amongst which are the 3 predominant which are called the Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh Mountains. The 3 mountains named after the 3 trinities. And amidst of all is the breath-taking Sheshnag Valley. The glazier where the Lider river originates. The place is so beautiful that the pictures/ video along are only a mere percentage of what you see with naked eye and feel with your other senses.

The destination where they say, God left his Sheshnag before telling the Amar Katha to Maa Parvati. Some people still say that they do Darshan of Shri Sheshnag Maharaj in this valley. If you are lucky, you will.

The Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh Parvats

And if you are lucky, you could get darshan of the trinity, The Brahma Vishnu And Mahesh. below is just an illustration.

This is the first days stay. You can get a tent with multi occupancy tents with rate of around Rs200 approximately per person. The area again is surrounded on all four sides by the Army for protection against the militants. They also provide medical support to the needy like emergency oxygen and other medical supplies.

Next we move to the Ganesh Top, the highest point of altitude in this yatra.

SheshNag to Ganeshtop or the Mahagunastop (4.6Km)[Ganeshtop: 14500 ft]

The climate plays a vital role. If it rains or snows anytime in the whole path for some considerable time, you are bound to take more than 2 days to reach the destination. The authorities do not allow you to move further.

So get up early morning and take a quick bath in the chilling water coming in a few taps around with people gathering for their turn. If that is tough, leave it and start walking and this time we have to cross the Panjtarni spot before 2-3 PM to cover the rest of the path till the cave IN THE SAME DAY. If you are late or the weather is not good. The military does not allow you to cross further and you have to stay overnight at Panjtarni.

From Sheshnag, the first stop is Warbal and the next major milestone is the GaneshTop or the Mahagunastop. This is where they say, Lord Shiva left Lord Ganesh. Lord Ganesh is said to be the son of Maa Parwati and Lord Shiva. Ganeshtop is the highest altitude of this pilgrimage. Mostly snow covered and a place where a few could need extra oxygen too.

A little up or down hill or a plain from Warbal, you get an elevation in the end called the Ganesh Top to climb in one go to be at the top.

The devotees have their langars set up here too!

At this pilgrimage you will find Sashu's meditating and the common man above.

The Ganeshtop at 14500 ft height. That is how the army gets the water from the glaciar. For the enthusiasts, they even play at this height.

Even at this height you will have the Indian Army giving us security and providing water and first aid to the yatris.

Building up a tent on Ice. Thanks to the Indian Army!

That is how the army does bonn fire after digging ice.

Ganeshtop to Panjtarni or Panchtarni (4.6Km)[Ganeshtop: 14500 ft]

After Ganeshtop, it is more or less a plain area to walk. The beauty of walking in between mountain ranges on both sides and the feeling of being cut off from regular inhabitance takes you more towards spiritualism. Upon reaching Panjtarni you can see a river split in 5 main parts in the plain. The water flow is not much as being spread in a vast plain so you can cross it without a bridge.

Going down the Ganesh Top.

This is ice with lot of mud on top. It becomes so slippery and dangerous that you can seep in through. So walk fast and do not rest on any glacior! This is the place where you will need good shoes and specially a good stick with a metallic pointer ahead (you will get this at Chandanwari at the beginning only, so do buy a strong one for your whole journey there itself, you do not find it any further).

Gradually walking down the altitude to a beautiful plain are amidst of the rising mountains.

Approaching Panjtarni.

Spiritual significance: Panjtarni is a place said to be the place where Lord Shiva after leaving everyone else apart from Maa, decided to leave the 5 tatvas of body. (The human body is said to be made of 5 tatvas). And then moved further. They say taking bath at this place is as sacred as in Ganga, which washes away your sins.

This is the highest point till where the Helicopter takes you (As per the year 2010). The helipad is also created in the center of the plain. The helicopters flies to both sides from here to Baltal and Pehelgam.

If you reach here before 2-3 PM and the weather is clear, the army allows you to do the rest of the journey in the same day else you have to stay here again for the night. If you are just a little late, you can talk to the pony guys if they can take you further the same day as the military generally allows them based on their regional expertise.

The final part to the Holy Cave, you will travel with enthusiasm.

Panjtarni -Sangam- Holy Cave

The rest of the path is congested for a couple of kilometers where you see horses qued up at places allowing horses to come from the opposite side. You have to be more careful while traveling as the passage is steeper at places.

Sangam is a place where the route coming from Baltal joins. And then just a couple of steps and you start getting the Darshan of the holy cave from far off. The darshan of the holy cave itself is so beautiful that it makes you forget of all the hardships you have been through. The rest of the distance covers up like some strong magnet is pulling you directly in front of your eyes. It could be that most of the times you don't even look where you are walking and you keep moving with eyes stuck at the holy cave kilometers away.

Watch in the picture above and try to spot the Holy Cave.

That is the place where almost everything is on the glaciar. Tents, markets and walking path.

The only thing we saw made of proper stone/ concrete, was Shri Shri Swami Gyan Giri ji Maharaj's ashram, preparing constant food for all meal times for decades now. There are other langars also situated at this place on tents coming from various parts of India. We thank all those devotees too.

The Holy Cave

Amarnath Cave from a distance

Jai Bhole! Jai Maa!

The temporary habitat starts a kilometer before, where people fix up temporary tents on the glacier. When we went, it was all covered up with many feets of ice and the whole bazaar and tents where built up on that. People use insulation sheets at the bottom to save from the chilling ice beneath. Long bazaar of all (completely all) muslim shops selling worship items of Hindus and calling Jai Bhole, Jai Bhole.

Alongside in the valley runs the fresh water river and chilling too. Take a bath or have it warmed up by the facilitators for around Rs 100 a bucket. If you reached here late evening, you can ideally sleep in one of the tents and go for the darshan, next day morning.

There is no electric charging point for your phone or camera for the common pilgrims. Most of it runs on the generators of the langarwalas.

Dress up fresh, take your worshiping items along the way. Around a hundred steps takes you under the Holy Cave. Army security check, thorough body frisking and then around 50 steps to see what you came here for. And in front is what you wish you keep seeing forever, the SHIVLING, of ice. ALL SELF MADE by nature or GOD himself.

A remarkable thing to notice is that the Shivling is self made of solid ice and made all by itself and for kilometers around, you find only soft and loose ice.

Alongside the shivling, do observe the are other self made idols of Sheshnag, Lord Ganesha and Maa Parwati's idols as well.

You are prevented to go further by the authorities after a certain distance just feets away from the Shivling with the help of a cage allowing you to only see through and not touch. However you can say it is close enough to have any regrets.

Concentrate only on the Darshan when you stand in front and you are the closest to the Shivling and then taking a few steps down you are allowed to do the darshan again from a distance where you can perform your pooja etc what you wish to.

Going down further you can collect the Jal transformed from the shivling ice and then some place down you also find a place where you get bhasm, a dust that is self transforming from the stones. You can take a little and put on your forehead too.

Move down further from the same path or you can choose the shortcut to Baltal.

Just a little about the other path and the beautiful base camp at Baltal, the road from where you can take a route to Kargil or other places.

Page 10: Back from the Holy Cave to Baltal (14 kms)

Baltal is a new route which was discovered much later than the traditional path and is just 14 Kilometers from the Holy Cave.

While going back on the destinations:

Holy Cave to Sangam: 3 kms

Sangam to Barari: 4 Kms

Barari to Domain: 5 kms

Domail to Baltal: 2Kms

The picture shows a few kilometers shorcut that is a very narrow path and should be avoided by the old and less active. The path is dangerous but cuts down a few kilometers and by passes the Sangam destination.

One important instruction for this path is that you must have a mouth/ nose mask and eye glasses as this route is very muddy and there is a hugh-huge amount of mud in the air because of the horses. It is practially difficult to breath without a mask.

If you think you will sit to a corner, there is no corner and no nothing. There are walking people selling masks at 1-2 places only, but do not depend on them, buy this from home before walking or donot hesitate to carry a ladies dupatta to tie it around your face.

Again a big checking post of the army for the devotees coming in at Baltal and at first a big Dharamshala by Swami Shri Gyan Giriji Maharaj.

Now a days many of the devotees (generally who come regularly every year) are choosing this path as you can go and come back the same day. (Provided the weather is clear all times).

There is a big shopping and resting valley at Baltal with mountain range on both sides where on one side in the valley is the Halipad for pilgrimage and on the other side again, lots and lots of Langars. Hats off to these so many devotees.

While going back to Jammu or Sri Nagar from Baltal, you can either take a route towards Kargil or going back to Jammu you can rest at Sonmarg, a beautiful tourist destination and then proceed further.

Jai Bhole! Jai Maa!