Sunday, November 26, 2017

Phiran


Phiran
The traditional outfit for both males and females in Kashmir is the phiran (or pheran) and poots. The phiran and poots consist of two gowns, one over the other. The traditional phiran and poots extends to the feet, which was popular up to the late 19th century C.E. However, a relatively modern variation of the phiran and poots extends to below the knees,[4] which is worn with a suthan inside (loose form of shalwar) similar to the styles worn in Afghanistan. It is optional to wear the suthan with a long phiran as traditionally lower garments are not worn with phirans. The traditional phiran and poots do not have side slits.
In summer, the phiran and poots are made of cotton, but in winter, the poots are made out of cotton and the phiran of wool, covering and protecting the body from the cold specially during snow. These dresses are used by the residents of the Kashmir valley and Kashmiris residing in Chenab Valley.
Etymology
There is no consensus as to the origin of the word 'pheran'. However, it seems that the word is a corruption of the Persian word 'perahan' which means shirt. The outfit has been envogue in Kashmir since before the 15th century
Design
Head dress
Hindu females use a “taranga”, a headdress which becomes smaller down at back, towards the heels. Islamic Kashmiri females use a red headwear known as the “kasaba”. The kasaba is padded by means of a turban and is pinned together by brooches. A pin-scarf revoked from the kasaba descends towards the neck.
Phiran
The phiran is a loose upper garment loosely gathered at the sleeves which tend to be wide,made of either wool or jamewar which is a mixture of wool and cotton, with no side slits. A phiran made of wool is called a 'loch'. Female phiran dresses are designed with colorful flower elements and styles. Male phiran dresses are quite simple without any colourful designs.
The traditional phiran falls to the feet like a gown which was universally worn by the Hindu and Muslim communities into the later 19th century C.E. However, a modern version is knee-length and is worn by Muslim people which is loose and stitched at the front side and on the finishes while Hindu people wear their phirans long, extending down their legs. Ankle length Phirans are tied at the waist. Intricate embroideries or flower styles are a popular function of a Kashmiri ladies phiran. The embroideries or flower Styles are made of thin metal threads and this kind of embroidery is known as 'Tille' in Kashmiri language.
Pooch
The pooch is the same as the phiran but made of lighter material and is worn beneath the phiran. It is generally used to save the pheran from burns due to kangri. It also provides extra heat during winters, double layered protection, from the cold winter days.
Suthan/shalwar
Traditionally, the phiran and poots were worn without a lower garment. Indeed, in neighbouring Hunza too, women did not wear pajamas until 1890 and in Nagar until 1925 Since the latter part of the 19th century, loose suthans (shalwars) and churidar pajamas of the Punjab region became popular in Kashmir. Accordingly, the suthan or churidar pajama can form part of the phiran and poots ensemble but is not a must. The Kashmiri suthan is baggy and loose and is similar to the Dogri suthan worn in the Jammu region. Some versions are similar to the shalwars worn in Afghanistan. However, since the 1960s, the straight cut Punjabi salwar has become popular
.
A Kanger(Kashmiri: कांगर (Devanagari), کانگر (Nastaleeq); (also known as Kangri) is traditionally used to keep warm and is worn under the phiran. However, current medical advice is not to use the kangar.
Modern fashion
Modern trends saw a decline in the use of phirans in favour of the shalwar kameez. However, there has been a revival in recent years as phirans have become part of modern fashion, and are worn by females of other areas of India as well. Kashmiri men are also wearing the phiran as a fashionable outfit. Combined with jeans, the phiran has made its way into the office world.The modern phiran is not as wide and long as the traditional ankle or knee length versions and sometimes have side slits. Less men are wearing the phiran with a shalwar .

A BEAUTIFUL KASHMIRI FOLK SONG HEARD FROM AN OLD WOMAN TODAY.


                                                                                       





AN ALMOND TREE IN FULL BLOOMS INSIDE BADAAM VAARI GARDEN OF KASHMIR.
( Photo.. Autar  Mota )

                                             
     ( Elderly Kashmiri Pandit Women in their Traditional Dress ..Photo source ..Sh. J L Bhat Author "Lal Ded Revisited ")


Heard an old Kashmiri Pandit woman singing this folk song today.Worried am I today; This precious folk literature that lies in the memory store of our elders is going to vanish shortly.I quote what I heard with my simple english rendering for friends who do not understand kashmiri.

In this folk song a maiden welcomes the arrival of spring in a beautiful style and also asks her beloved to pay her a visit...


(1)



Gul phael tai phulayaa 

,


Rozu bulbul lol tchoan Aavo....
Rang kyaah roatt aeimm rang Tcheiray,
Sangdil yaar yueir Maa pheiray
Nanga Maa gatchhi harrdein vaavo..
Rozu bulbul lol tchoan Aavo....


(Spring flowers bloom all over,
O Bulbul,come,stay here,
I pine to meet you.


Look at this apricot flower,
What a grand colour it acquired ?
Would that stone hearted beloved of mine
come this way now ..
The autumnal winds may also arrive later
And this beauty may get unclothed .
O bulbul,come,stay here,
I pine to meet you.)
(2)
Kuyii Pyaath ke badaam posho
Suul kaa’rthhum thhuv ta gosho
Asta Asta Chashm Vaen Mutcharaavo
Rozu Bulbul Lol Tchoan Aavo
( O Sprouting Almond flower of that tree ,
Listen ! Have not you arrived so early this time ?
Now be slow in opening your eyes over here .
O Bulbul, Come, Stay here ,
I pine to meet you.)
(3)
Aa’ar Posho Tcheir Kyaazi Gayyi -Yo
Munz Vanasaeyyi Nendhraa Peiyi –yo
Valla Vuchh Baaguk Chikka Chaavo
Rozu Bulbul Lol Tchoan Aavo.



( O Plum flower , why so late this time ,
Were you under a sleep inside the jungle ?
Now Hurry up and see the grandeur of the garden.
O Bulbul, Come, Stay here ,
I pine to meet you.)
(4)
Naagraadun Aab Guvv Jaar’ie
Baag Andeiray Gul phoel Saar’ie
Baag e Jannattuk Sabzaar chhaavo
Rozu Bulbul Lol Tchoan aavo…
( How good to see water gushing out of the springs ,
And inside the garden, flowers thrive all over .
Now come and take pleasure in the greenery of this paradise .
O Bulbul, Come, Stay here ,
I pine to meet you.)
(Autar Mota )
POSTED  BY  : VIPUL KOUL 
EDITED BY    :ASHOK KOUL
 
 

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